Found a dana 30 have some ?

NCHornet

New Member
Joined
Sep 13, 2006
Location
Mt Airy
I am going to the engine builder and getting my manual back on Monday because I am lost without it. As many of you know I have been wanting to convert my 4 wheel drum 77 CJ5 to front disc as it will be my sons first car. Thanks to a fellow forum member and almost neighbor I found a used dana 30 off a 78-80 CJ5 ( he wasn't sure on the exact year) it is pretty rusted up as it has been sitting a couple years outside.But I need some help.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2572955850062001545QyFIDr?vhost=rides


http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2287917510062001545EExilM?vhost=rides

When this was hanging down watery oil came out so I assume I need a new pinion seal, right?

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2180649330062001545jdQQFr?vhost=rides

I want to take everything apart to wire brush and clean it up. I got the caliper off, then I pulled the cap off that held the lock outs.

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2672649950062001545oScCpG?vhost=rides

But it looks like I need to pull the spindle nut and bearings to get the rotor off, is this right?

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2246885250062001545UFdjzI?vhost=rides
 
This is after just a few minutes with a wire wheel. I think it will clean up well if I can get it all apart. I will change out the BJ's while I am in there, but what about the part that looks like a U joint? Does it need to be replaced? Can't see how it is held in yet to much gunk in the way. I appreciate all the help and advice,

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2965957920062001545RThebt?vhost=rides

http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2051355920062001545prNZhU?vhost=rides

Don't know why the pics didn't show up, sorry!!
 
NCHornet said:
I am going to the engine builder and getting my manual back on Monday because I am lost without it. As many of you know I have been wanting to convert my 4 wheel drum 77 CJ5 to front disc as it will be my sons first car. Thanks to a fellow forum member and almost neighbor I found a used dana 30 off a 78-80 CJ5 ( he wasn't sure on the exact year) it is pretty rusted up as it has been sitting a couple years outside.But I need some help.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2572955850062001545QyFIDr?vhost=rides
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2287917510062001545EExilM?vhost=rides
When this was hanging down watery oil came out so I assume I need a new pinion seal, right?
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2180649330062001545jdQQFr?vhost=rides
I want to take everything apart to wire brush and clean it up. I got the caliper off, then I pulled the cap off that held the lock outs.
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2672649950062001545oScCpG?vhost=rides
But it looks like I need to pull the spindle nut and bearings to get the rotor off, is this right?
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2246885250062001545UFdjzI?vhost=rides
Click to expand...
NCHornet said:
This is after just a few minutes with a wire wheel. I think it will clean up well if I can get it all apart. I will change out the BJ's while I am in there, but what about the part that looks like a U joint? Does it need to be replaced? Can't see how it is held in yet to much gunk in the way. I appreciate all the help and advice,
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2965957920062001545RThebt?vhost=rides
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2051355920062001545prNZhU?vhost=rides
Don't know why the pics didn't show up, sorry!!
Click to expand...
Yep, I'd go ahead and change that pinion seal. I think its an 1-1/8" nut on the yoke. There's some fancy method for measuring torque on the pinion nut before removing it, to maintain then pinion bearing preloads....I've ignored that/
The spindle nut has to come off to remove the rotor and hub assembly. Its a 2-1/16" nut, and the washer behind it should be folded forward to lock the nut. I'd try get replacement washers, because you'll need to rebend them when you re-install. Better yet, go with some D44 spindle nuts and washers.
I would definitly put new U-joints in the axleshafts. If you plan on balljoints, the axleshafts will out anyways. I had some bad
U-joints, and it affected the steering, even in 2wd.
I would basically did the same thing you did, found a CJ D30 with 4.10 gears. I replaced every seal and bearing (maybe I skimped and re-used the carrier bearings), added a locker and bolted it in my CJ. I pulled the carrier and changed the inner axle seals inside the pumpkin. Good luck getting all the seals. They are standard Dana parts, I think NAPA has them, but they don't know what they are. I ended up putting in an order with 4wd Hardware.
 
since my other diff is in better shape, not leaking, pinion seal is good etc... Do you think I should strip the parts off the donor and put on my stock axle? How far would I need to strip it? How do you replace that U joint between the BJ's, it's not held in with the regular U bolt retainer clips like on the drive shaft.
 
Great, I just found out the axle I bought has the 7/8" rotors and not the 1 1/8 rotors, this means I have the 2 bolt caliper bracket and not the 6 everyone was telling me to get. This is going to be a mild trail Jeep but mainly a DD , is this a deal breaker? Should I look for another axle?
Thanks
Kevin
 
NCHornet said:
since my other diff is in better shape, not leaking, pinion seal is good etc... Do you think I should strip the parts off the donor and put on my stock axle? How far would I need to strip it? How do you replace that U joint between the BJ's, it's not held in with the regular U bolt retainer clips like on the drive shaft.
Click to expand...
NCHornet said:
Great, I just found out the axle I bought has the 7/8" rotors and not the 1 1/8 rotors, this means I have the 2 bolt caliper bracket and not the 6 everyone was telling me to get. This is going to be a mild trail Jeep but mainly a DD , is this a deal breaker? Should I look for another axle?
Thanks
Kevin
Click to expand...

For what your doing, I would go ahead and use the disk brakes you got. Swapping and combining parts gets confusing, as you're finding out. I guess keep looking for 77-79 (I think, with the big brakes), but the 7/8" rotor should be better than drums.

If you do find a D30 with the big brakes, you can always swap the knuckles/spindles/brakes to your current axle. Of course the best time to do this is when you have the knuckle off for ball joint replacement.

The axleshaft Ujoint has a circ-clip on each cap that holds it against the inner side of the yokes. They can be a PITA to tap off, but once you figure out how they work, its not too bad. They are most likely hidden by years of dirt and crust. The clips wrap around about 2/3 of the cap's diameter.
 
So are you sayingI should use the complete donor axle and replace the inner seals, bearings and pinion seals, or is it okay to rob the disc parts from the donor and put them on my 77 axle, it is in much better shape and I know all the seals are good. As I said I will replace all BJ's and that axle U joint, thanks for telling me how thy come out, sounds like a job for PB Blaster!!!
I agree with not using a two bolt caliper bracket with the thicker rotors and calipers.But you think the 2 bolt calipers and 7/8 rotors should stop him okay? This boy means a lot to me!!! I reckon they used the thinner rotors much longer than the thicker so they ought to be okay, just need some reassuring before I spend anymore time on this. If I keep the 2 bolt caliper brackets then I should order calipers and rotors from a 80 model CJ correct.
Thanks, sorry for the repitive questions.
Kevin
 
probly the easiest way to do it, would be when you are changing the balljoints... just bolt the whole assembly knuckle out back onto your current d30...as said this will be better then drums, and if you run across a big brake setup, or your not happy with what you have, you can upgrade later...
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
probly the easiest way to do it, would be when you are changing the balljoints... just bolt the whole assembly knuckle out back onto your current d30...as said this will be better then drums, and if you run across a big brake setup, or your not happy with what you have, you can upgrade later...
Click to expand...

yeah, I guess that's what I was trying to say but it didnt quite come out like that :huggy:
 
OKay that is what I will do. A couple more questions.
What size is the spindle nut? I need to buy a socket tomorrow, some said 2 1/16 and others say 2 1/8?
Any hints you can give me on pulling the BJ's would be great. I could also use any hints on getting the U joint out of the outer axle assembly.I will go to Napa tomorrow and order all the seals and bearings, BJ's and Ujoints, I will pull the parts of the stock axle and the donor clean and paint and hopefully assemble on Tues.
I may have to order new dust shields if Napa can't get them.

Thank y'all so much!!!
 
NCHornet said:
OKay that is what I will do. A couple more questions.
What size is the spindle nut? I need to buy a socket tomorrow, some said 2 1/16 and others say 2 1/8?
Any hints you can give me on pulling the BJ's would be great. I could also use any hints on getting the U joint out of the outer axle assembly.I will go to Napa tomorrow and order all the seals and bearings, BJ's and Ujoints, I will pull the parts of the stock axle and the donor clean and paint and hopefully assemble on Tues.
I may have to order new dust shields if Napa can't get them.
Thank y'all so much!!!
Click to expand...
Spindle nut is 2-1/16". I needed one ASAP so I went to NAPA; they only had 2-3/32" and I bought it, it worked fine. A 2-1/8" might work fine also. Mine was like $25, I wish I had planned ahead...http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=12578
Ball joints...lots of BFH. I borrowed the AutoZone Loan-a-tool, but still had to supplement it with my own spacers.
U-joints, more BFH. The first time figuring out those circlips is frustrating. I set the axle shaft in a vise and used a hammer chisel (maybe craftsman screwdriver) to knock them out. After that, its just like an other U-joint, which can be fun.
Dust shields...post a wtb ad here or consider not using them, I don't think a lot of people keep them.
 
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