full width axles for a cherokee?

twisted

twisted

New Member
Joined
Jun 29, 2006
Location
Charlotte
I have a HP44 and a 32 spline 9" rear full width axles that I want to put under my 98 XJ. How do I or where do I get these axles customized to do that and what will I need to get the steering right.

thanks in advance.:popcorn:
 
is there a shop around the charlotte area that can do this? I would like them to be the same width as the stock axles. Basically when they are done I want to be able to bolt them right up with minor problems.
 
thanks I will get in touch with him and see what he can do.
 
yes I do mean 31 spline 9". Sometimes my fingers prefer to hit the wrong button when I am typing. Thanks for the correction.
 
poison spyder arm on the pasenger knuckle and a tie rod with heims from knuckle to knuckle at the stock tie rod location would have your steering pretty much done except your pitman arm.....
 
the rear axle will need leaf spring perches and shock mounts. the front axle will need link mounts and coil buckets. A few different companies sell kits for the front axle: rubicon express, ballistic fab, tnt customs, and I think there is a couple more. You will need a new steering setup (buy or build). You may need to shorten the front driveshaft because the nose of the pinion is a little longer but you may not have to. The 1310 ujoint in the front will work with the new axle however depending on what rear axle you have it may not. If you have a dana 44 rear or dana 35 then you will probably have to get a 1310-1330 conversion ujoint. If you have the 8.25 then I believe it came with the 1330 ujoint you need for the 9in. You would probably want to go ahead go with disk breaks for the rear as well and there are different ways to do this as well.

Heres a couple of links to get you started.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=600900

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=600343

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=610646


http://http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=601576
this one has a custom rear disk brake setup.

Good luck.
 
For the steering going to a high steer arm on the passenger side knuckle you might have a clearance problem with the Sway Bar Disconects. I went straight from the pitman arm to the top of the knuckle and ran my tie rod on the under side of the knuckle. I made some spacers to let the Heims move to more of an angle.

As for the rear, my 9" yoke was some kind of Ford joint, it was alittle bigger than the 1330, it measured 1 and 1/8 inch across the cap. . I used an '85 Bronco DS from the junk yard. The CV part is 1330. Advanced Adapters 1330 yoke for a CV joint will fit a PORC SYE. And I like how much bigger the Bronc shaft is Versus a stock front XJ shaft.

For my front shaft I'm haveing to find a 5speed front shaft, my auto fr shaft is about 1 inch to long.
I used the RE kit on my front axle.
Search over at NAXJA also I found ALOTof info there

Hope this Helps
Good Luck
 
If I understand correctly, you want to narrow the full width axles to match your original track width. Is that correct?
It ain't worth it for the front.
You can buy a complete bolt-in front D44 loaded with gears and lockers of your choice for around $2000-2500.
Narrowing the 9" to match should be reasonably affordable. There are several companies that will do that. Moser comes to mind. I don't know any local shops, but with all the racing I'm sure there are some.
Welding spring perches and shock mounts on the rear is pretty straight forward. Tarheel, Alpha, or I could handle that for you.
Your steering set-up depends a lot on what kind of lift your talking.
 
Is that front a cast or weld on for the radius arm mount? Makes a difference. What makes you want to narrow it? I think we need to know what you want your end result to be. How tall what size tires all that good stuff. It also depends on how much you want to spend. For me I tried to do it as cheaply as possible. I used for Radius Arms then cut out the webbing and used 2" DOM with inserts and Johnny Joints. For the trac bar I have Rock Krawler and their drop bracket. On the axle end I reamed out the bushing and used the factory Ford single bolt. Porbably not the best but works for me. I moved in the Spring buckets by using 2" spuare stock. I am currently building my steering. I used Shevy 1 ton TRE's, weld in Bungs and 1.5" DOM tubing. I am going OTK now too. My front springs are RK's 6".
Out back I have Rustys 6.5" pack with 2 leaves removed and 2" rough Country shakles. My springs are too soft so I need to add in a leaf or possibly both. I rotated the pinion up and used a front DS lengthened. I still need gears, and an anti wrap bar out back. I also used TNT frame stiffners and Blue torch's brackets for the front arms. I recently bought new tires. You can search my name and see pics.
 
01blktaco said:
the rear axle will need leaf spring perches and shock mounts. the front axle will need link mounts and coil buckets. A few different companies sell kits for the front axle: rubicon express, ballistic fab, tnt customs, and I think there is a couple more. You will need a new steering setup (buy or build). You may need to shorten the front driveshaft because the nose of the pinion is a little longer but you may not have to. The 1310 ujoint in the front will work with the new axle however depending on what rear axle you have it may not. If you have a dana 44 rear or dana 35 then you will probably have to get a 1310-1330 conversion ujoint. If you have the 8.25 then I believe it came with the 1330 ujoint you need for the 9in. You would probably want to go ahead go with disk breaks for the rear as well and there are different ways to do this as well.
Heres a couple of links to get you started.
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=600900
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=600343
http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=610646
http://http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=601576
this one has a custom rear disk brake setup.
Good luck.
Click to expand...

That first one is my build. I am doing my steering tomorrow. I messed up and over reamed the knuckles so I am replacing them. I still need the front DS as well.
 
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