Halloween Havoc Demolition Derby at URE Adventures - Saturday, Nov 1st, 2001

poker

Member
Joined
Mar 17, 2008
Location
Uwharrie (Troy, NC)
I posted this under upcoming events, but after thinking about it, it doesn't have anything to do with Wheeling, so I have moved it here. If a mod. could let me know if it can be posted under upcoming events or if it should stay here, I would appreciate it.
Halloween Havoc Demolition Derby at Uwharrie Adventures
On Saturday, November 1st.
We are going to have some Halloween fun here at Uwharrie Adventures and hold a Demolition derby. Derby will begin at 1:00 and last until it is over. Gates will open at 9:00 and Registration and Tech inspection for cars will be from 10-12 noon.
Get the word out to everyone you know and come on out for a day of FUN. If you have never been to a derby, you don't know what you are missing. Seats are limited, so bring your own chairs and coolers are also welcome (no open containers). We will also have food vendors onsite.
Any of you brave enough to enter, the fee is $35.00 per vehicle.
Lets talk cash now. Payout full size
1st $1500
2nd $1000
3rd $800
4th $500
5th $300
6th $200
7th $100
8th $100
9th $100
10th $100
11th $100
12th $100
13th $100
14th $100
15th $100
Payout compact
1st $500
2nd $300
3rd $100
Call or email us johnny@uwharriestables.com for a list of Rules.
 
So will this be on Friday Oct 31st or Saturday Nov 1st?

Thats what im trying to figure out.. And whats considered "full size"? SUV/Truck/Mini Van/Semi/Bus?
 
what are the rules?

Uwharrie Adventures Presents "Halloween Havoc 2008”


1. THIS DERBY WILL BE OPEN TO MID OR FULL SIZE AMERICAN MADE HARDTOP VEHICLES OF ANY YEAR. WILL NOT INCLUDE THE FOLLOWING. NO IMPERIALS, TRUCKS, AMBULANCES, HEARSES OR CONVERTIBLES.

2. CARS MUST BE STRIPPED COMPLETELY BEFORE BROUGHT TO THE TRACK. THIS INCLUDES GLASS, CHROME, EXTRA SEAT BELTS, EXTRA SEATS, TRIM, MOULDING , PLASTIC, FACTORY GAS TANK, AND ALL EXTRA PIECES AND JUNK UNDER HOOD. MAKING A MESS OF THE FACILITY WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.

3. CAR NUNBERS: NEED TO BE 18 INCHES TALL AND PAINTED IN A CONTRASTING COLOR ON THE DOORS.

4. TIRES: 8 PLY MAX. NEEDS TO SAY ON IT 8 PLY. SUGGEST RUNNING A 7.00-15. IF IT DOES NOT SAY 8 PLY, DON'T RUN IT . NO TIRE IN TIRE.

5. ENGINES AND LOCATION: ENGINES MAY BE SWAPPED FROM MAKE TO MAKE. #1 SPARK PLUG MAY NOT BE BACK MORE THAN 4'' FROM UPPER BALL JOINT. ENGINE MAY HAVE A SOLID FAN OR CLUTCH ELIMINATOR. DIST. PROTECTOR MAY BE USED BUT CAN'T TIE INTO DASH BAR OR FIREWALL IN ANY WAY OR INTEND TO TOUCH THE DASH BAR IN ANY WAY. MAY USE 2 BOLT HOLES IN THE INTAKE AND 2 IN THE BELL HOUSING TO ATTACH.

6. REAR AXLE: ANY MAKE OR MODEL MAY BE SWAPPED JUST AS LONG AS IT IS 5 WHEEL STUD TYPE MEANT FOR PASSENGER USE NOT MILITARY. NO FULL FLOAT AXLES. TELESCOPIC OR SLIP DRIVE SHAFTS OK.

7. RADIATOR AND POSITION: ANY MAKE AND MODEL RAD IS ALLOWED. THE RADIATOR MUST FIT BETWEEN FRAME RAILS AND IN STOCK LOCATION. RADIATOR MUST HOLD WATER, NOT ANTIFREEZE, OIL OR ALCOHOL. CONDENSER MAY BE USED IN REASONABLE MANNER. ELECTRIC ARE FANS ALLOWED. 1/16 THICK PLEATED STEEL OR EXPANDED METAL MAY BE USED TO PROTECT THE RADIATOR CORES ONLY, NOT WRAPPED AROUD THE TANKS. OVERFLOW HOSE NEEDS TO POINT AWAY FROM YOURSELF AND COMPETITORS.

8. EXHAUST: PIPES MAY RUN UP THROUGH HOOD OR UNDER CAR BUT THEY MAY NOT FACE THE DRIVER IF THROUGH THE HOOD.

9. CARS MUST HAVE LAP BELT IN WORKING CONDITION. RECOMMEND SHOULDER BELT.

10. STEERING COLUMN: MAY BE MODIFIED. STEERING BOX NEEDS TO BE IN STOCK LOCATION AND USE FACTORY HOLES. UNIVERSALS MAY BE USED.

11. FENDER WELLS: MAY BE TRIMMED, ROLLED, TUCKED, WELDED, BANDED OR FOLDED. OTHER THAN THE FACTORY BOLTS, A MAX OF 4- 3/8 BOLTS WITH 11/2 WASHER MAY BE USED TO HOLD INNER PANEL TO OUTER PANEL. KEEP FLUSH I.E. BOLT HEAD OUT. INNERS MAY BE TRIMMED.

12. BODY BOLTS: THE RUBBER MOUNTS MAY BE REMOVED AND A MAX OF 3/4 INCH BOLT WITH 4 INCH PLATE MAY BE ADDED. DO NOT ADD BOLTS WHERE RUBBER MOUNTS WERE NOT EXISTING. BODY LIFT MAY BE ADDED IF WANTED.

13. BATTERIES: MUST BE MOUNTED IN CABIN ON FLOOR AND COVERED UP. MAX OF 2.

14. GAS TANK: MUST BE MOUNTED IN CABIN AND AWAY FROM DRIVER, IF PLASTIC, NEEDS TO BE COVERED WITH METAL LID. FUEL LINE CAN BE METAL OR RUBBER. PLEASE MAKE SURE IT HAS NOT BEEN RUN FOR 30 YEARS AND HAS GOTTEN BRITTLE. TANK MUST HOLD NO MORE THAN 7 GALONS. GAS TANK PROTECTOR OPTIONAL. MAY TIE INTO SEAT BAR IN ONE PLACE AND CANNOT TOUCH REAR FIREWALL ANYWHERE. ALSO CANNOT SPAN MORE THAN 12'' TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT OF GAS TANK. CAN ONLY WELD TO THE FLOOR. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS CALL ME.

15. DOORS: MUST CHOOSE BETWEEN BOLTING, CHAINING, WIRING OR WELDING. BOLTED IN 4 PLACES PER SEAM FROM THE BOTTOM UP-NOT THROUGH THE FRAME WHILE BODY IS OFF; CHAINS IN 2 PLACES PER DOOR SEAM WITH 3/8 CHAIN; WIRE IN 4 PLACES PER SEAM; OR WELDED WITH 3 IN WIDE 1/4 THICK STRAP. NO POST CARS MAY RUN A 4'' 1/4 THICK STRAP UP DOOR SEAM AND 6 INCHES ONTO THE ROOF. DOORS MAY NO BE WELDED ON THE INSIDE SEAM, EVEN WAGONS.

16. TRUNK: MUST CHOOSE BETWEEN WIRE, CHAINS, BOLTS OR WELDS. MAY BE WELDED WITH 3'' WIDE 1/4 THICK STRAP ALL THE WAY AROUND. IF TRUNK TOUCHES BUMPER YOU ARE ONLY ALLOWED 8 INCHES TOTAL TO TOUCH BUMPER. IF WIRED, MAX OF 4 LOOPS IN 4 PLACES. IF CHAINED, 3/8 CHAIN IN 4 PLACES. YOU MAY BOLT THE TRUNK USING 4- 3/4 RODS WITH 4 INCH PLATES. 1- 8'' ROUND HOLES MUST CUT ON TOP NEAR THE FRONT EDGE OF LID FOR INSPECTION EVEN IF YOU HAVE REAR TAILIGHT HOLES. YOU MAY USE 8- 3/8 BOLTS WITH 1 1/2 WASHER TO HOLD TRUNK LID TO TRUNK LID LINER. FOR WAGONS: YOU MAY WELD TAILGATE CLOSED IN SAME MANNER AND 2- 2X4 1/4 THICK PATCHES MAY BE ADDED FROM TAILGATE TO BUMPER COVER. 2- 3/4 INCH BOLTS WITH 2 1/2 INCH WASHER MAY BE USED IN WAGON TAILGATE TO HOLD INNER AND OUTER TAILGATE TOGETHER. 2 BARS COMING FROM ROOF TO DECKLID ON SEDANS MADE OF MAX 1X1 .250 WALL THICKNESS SQUARE TUBING OR 1 1/2 ANGLE .250 WALL THICK WILL BE ALLOWED. IT MUST ATTACH WITHIN THE FIRST 6'' OF DECKLID AND ROOF.

17. HOOD: NEEDS TO BE USED. MUST CHOOSE BETWEEN WIRE, CHAIN OR WELD OR BOLTS. HOLES, AT LEAST A TOTAL OF 144 SQUARE INCHES, NEEDS TO BE CUT IN HOOD FOR FIRE DECECTION. YOU MAY BOLT DOWN HOOD IN 6 PLACES USING 3/4 ROD WITH 4'' PLATES. I WOULD APPRECIATE A LONG BOLT WELDED TO THE NUT AT AN ANGLE LIKE A WING NUT FOR EASY REMOVAL BY YOU AND MY SAFTY STAFF. IF USING WIRE OR CABLE YOU MAY USE 1 LOOP OF CABLE OR 4 LOOPS OF #9 FOR A MAX OF 6 PLACES IN HOOD. IF WELDING, A HOLE NEEDS TO BE CUT 30''X34'' IN CENTER. 3'' WIDE 1/4 THICK STRAP IS MAX FOR WELDING HOOD. FRONT SIDE MAY NOT BE WELDED TO CORE SUPPORT, BUT IF WELDING HOOD CLOSED YOU MAY RUN 2-3/4''X8'' LONG BOLTS THROUGH HOOD INTO CORE SUPPORT ONLY. 8- 3/8 BOLTS WITH 1 1/2 WASHERS MAY BE USED TO HOLD HOOD TO HOOD LINER. 2 BARS COMING FROM ROOF TO FIREWALL MADE OF MAX 1X1 .250 WALL THICKNESS SQUARE TUBING OR 1 1/2 ANGLE .250 WALL THICK WILL BE ALLOWED. IT MUST ATTACH ONLY WITHIN THE FIRST 6'' OF FIREWALL AND ROOF.

18. ROOF: THERE WILL BE NO ADDING TO ROOF THICKNESS OR REINFORCING OTHER THAN FRONT/REAR BARS AND STRAP FOR NO POST CARS.

19. BUMPERS: SWAPPING FROM MAKE TO MAKE IS FINE. MAY WELD HALVES TOGETHER HOWEVER NEEDED. BE PREPARED TO DRILL A SMALL HOLE IN BUMPERS THAT HAVE NO HOLES, TO INSPECT WITH BORE SCOPE. NOTHING EXTRA INSIDE BUMPERS. DO NOT ADD MATERIAL,YOU WILL HAVE TO CUT IT OFF. MAX BUMPER HEIGHT WILL BE 28'' MEASURED FROM GROUND TO HIGHEST POINT OF BUMPER LEFT, RIGHT OR CENTER. THIS WILL BE ENFORCED SO BE RIGHT OR COME PREPARED. PREDERBIED CARS NEED TO MEET THE SAME RULES. IF IN DOUBT CALL ME.

20. CAGE: THIS IS FOR SAFETY NOT REINFORCEMENT. YOU WILL HAVE 2 OPTIONS:
1. 6'' MAX PIPE BEHIND SEAT FROM POST TO POST, 6'' MAX PIPE ACROSS DASH, 6''
MAX PIPE OR 6'' C- CHANNEL FROM PIPE TO PIPE DOWN DOORS; OR
2. 6'' MAX PIPE GOING FROM FLOOR BEHIND DRIVER TO POST ON RIGHT SIDE, THIS IS TO KEEP FROM LOOSING DRIVERS SIDE DOOR POST FROM FLOOR. 6'' MAX PIPE ACROSS DASH, 6'' MAX PIPE OR 6'' C- CHANNEL FROM PIPE TO PIPE DOWN DOORS.

THE PIPE OR CHANNEL RUNNING DOWN BOTH RIGHT AND LEFT DOORS CANNOT INDIVIDUALLY EXCEED 60'' INCLUDING THE THICKNESS OF DASH AND SEAT PIPE. I THINK THIS WILL COVER ALL MAKES OF VEHICLES. YOU MAY PUT IN A ROLL OVER BAR CONNECTING TO THE SEAT BAR GOING UNDER THE ROOF OR OUTSIDE OVER THE ROOF. INTERIOR CAGE MAY TOUCH THE FLOORPAN ONLY, NOT THE FRAME IN MAX OF 2 PLACES. IF YOU PUT THE BAR BEHIND THE SEAT FROM THE DRIVERS FLOOR TO THE PASSENGER DOOR POST, THATS 1 PLACE. IF YOU DASH BAR HAS A PIPE GOING FROM THE RIGHT SIDE A-POST DOWN TO THE FLOOR THATS YOUR 2ND PLACE. YOUR DONE.

21. DRIVERS DOOR: DO WHATS NEEDED BUT CANNOT PROTRUDE OR BE SHARP. IF SO YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO FIX IT. NOTHING CAN OVERLAP MORE THAN 6'' INCHES OF THE DOOR SEAMS.

22. FRAME: YOU ARE ALLOWED TO WELD AND ONLY WELD THE FIRST 18''. IT WILL BE MEASURED FROM THE END OF THE FRAME BACK. WELDING WIRE ONLY ON THE FRAME, NO ADDED METAL. DO NOT WELD BODY TO FRAME, DO NOT WELD ANYTHING TO FRAME. IF YOU WELD 19, BRING YOUR TORCHES. I SUGGEST YOU WELD 17 3/4. DO NOT TOUCH FRAME WITH WELDER IN ANY OTHER AREA. ANY SUSPECTED AREAS WILL BE SONIC CHECKED. DO NOT PUT DIRT, MUD, GLUE, UNDERCOATING OR DOG POOP ON ANY PART OF FRAME--ESPECIALLY DO NOT PAINT THE FRAME. IF THERE IS ANYTHING ON THE FRAME WE WILL SCRAPE IT OFF. ANY PARTS OF FRAME WHICH I CANNOT SEE INSIDE WILL DRILL A SMALL HOLE IN IT AND A BORE SCOPE INSERTED AND INSPECTED. DO NOT REINFORCE THE FRAME!

23. SUSPENSION: NEEDS TO BE WORKING. I WILL JUMP ON BUMPER AND THE SUSPENSION NEEDS TO TRAVEL. YOU MAY SWAP SUSP PARTS PER MAKES. YOU MAY NOT LEAF SEDANS. IF THE CAR CAME WITH COIL SPRINGS YOU MUST RUN COIL SPRINGS. YOU MAY WELD TOP AND BOTTOM IN. CARS WITH FACTORY LEAVES NEED TO BE MAX OF 9 LEAVES AND MUST DECLINE IN LENGTH BY 3 TO 5 INCHES FROM LEAF TO LEAF. A MAX OF 12 LEAF SPRING CLAMPS PER CAR MAY BE USED MADE OF 1 1/2 WIDE AND 1/4 THICK MAX STEEL WITH 3/8 BOLTS. 7/16 U-BOLT MAX THICKNESS. MAX LEAF THICKNESS 5/16. LEAF LENGTH MAX IS 61'' AND MIN IS 53''. YOU MAY NOT CHAIN HUMPS. UPPER AND LOWER BALL JOINTS AND INNER AND OUTER TIEROD ENDS MAY BE CHAINED IN. TIEROD ADJUSTERS MAY BE WELDED. BRAKES MUST BE IN WORKING ORDER, WILL TEST AT TRACK. BOOSTERS MAY BE REMOVED.

24. YOU MAY NOT SWAP FRAMES AND BODY TUBS. NO IMPERIAL FRAMES CUT TO FIT UNDER 1971 CAPRICE WAGONS, ECT.. I DON'T MIND SWAPPING FRONT SHEETMETAL FROM CARS TO CARS, BUT KEEP TUB WITH FRAME. NOTCHING, TUCKING AND PRE-BENDING IS PERMITED BUT STILL NEED TO MEET BUMPER HEIGHT RULES.

25. DO NOT ASSUME THAT YOU WILL GET AWAY WITH SOMETHING IN THE GREY AREA. MY PHILOSOPHY IS NOT "BETTER TO ASK FOR FORGIVENESS THAN PERMISSION" CALL ME, I AM A REASONABLE GUY. NOT EVERYONE IS FROM THE AREA AND ALL INTERPRET THINGS DIFFERENTLY.

26. CORE SUPPORT: MAY WELD SEAMS, BUT NOTHING PAST RADIATOR WHICH IS BASICALLY THE FRONTAL AREA. ANYTHING PAST RAD YOU WILL CUT LOOSE.

27. MATT GROESCHL (JOKER) 7049073082

28. ALL DECISIONS MADE BY OFFICIALS ARE FINAL AND OFFICIALS HAVE THE RIGHT TO DECLINE ENTRIES DUE TO THE LACK OF ABILITY TO CONFORM TO RULES STATED ABOVE AND MAY NOT BE REFUNDED ENTRY FEE..

THESE RULES ARE FINAL.
 
These rules give a lot more leeway than any Derby I have been to.
 
Ill be there as well! This sounds like a good time!
 
Sorry, but I had to update the rules for the derby. There were a couple of lines in it that did not pertain under suspension and bumpers.
We have hired/inlisted Matt to run the derby for us and he is also working on the rules for the compact class just not done with them yet. If anyone has any questions, please feel free to either call us at the stables 910-572-1614 or call:
MATT GROESCHL (JOKER) 7049073082
 
I wont be there.

I would love to run another derby because I havent run one since I moved down here but these are not derbies down here. All this welding and reinforcing takes away from the fun. I say chain the doors and move the battery and fuel tanks and let them go. That is how it is in NY. I mean yeah remove anything that can cause harm but forget about reinforcing body mounts and all and just go out there have fun and let the best man win.
 
I would love to run another derby because I havent run one since I moved down here but these are not derbies down here. All this welding and reinforcing takes away from the fun. I say chain the doors and move the battery and fuel tanks and let them go. That is how it is in NY. I mean yeah remove anything that can cause harm but forget about reinforcing body mounts and all and just go out there have fun and let the best man win.
Thats what I think too. Other wise, it comes down to who can do the most fabwork/welding to see who can build the most solidest(new word?) car.

I remember an old Dukes of Hazard episode and they had a name for this kind of car...just cant remember the name. Anyways, it was frowned upon to have your derby car all beefed up w/ plating and what not.

I could maybe do a little modding of the gas tank, batteries,remove glass etc...and enter, but if folks are spending $ and super beefing up cars, I cant compete.
 
I'm with Dylan on the simple derby cars. I don't have the funds to put into all the strapping and welding to be competitive. I'm from Washington state and they were all ran with simple rules out there.. The only "reinforcements" that were allowed was a small cage around the driver seat if desired and it had to be a minimum of 6" away from any part of the vehicle. Battery had to be in a boat box and the gas tank had to be 10 gal max plastic mounted where the rear seat was along with fire extinguisher mounted within reach of the driver.
 
Yeah, I just went back and reread the rules. I guess thats all for safety and such...so my hood dont chop off anyones head. At first glance it realy looked like it was ok to build a supercar, but after reading again...it's really not like that...but I'm thinking I will be a watcher, not a competitor.

Should be fun!
 
I appreciate everyones opinion, and I know it may look and sound like a lot in the rules, but keep in mind, they are there for a reason. Safety is and always should be everyones top concern. I agree that some people who compete in derbies do go overboard and make a "super" car, but it is no different than someone with money making a super Mud truck or a super Rock crawler.
 
Maybe the compact will be more of a "stock" class. Would be cool to run one of these :driver:
 
If everyone builds indestructible vehicles, someone will end up getting hurt. I agree with the stock concept, move the battery and fuel tank and weld the doors. Something has to give. That's the way we've always done it.
 
After reading the rules, i am not sure what part of welding the doors closed, bolting the hood shut, welding the bumpers on and putting 4 pipes around the driver makes these cars indestructable? i run lots of derbies and all this derby means is that the cars will last and not fall apart in 2 hits and are SAFE! Almost the exact same rules as Troy and those cars blow apart and you all cheer. Troy you can run imperials too. I think these cars are built less.
 
Compact Rules for Derby Cars

Here are the rules for Compact:

Uwharrie Adventures Presents "Halloween Havoc" 2008

COMPACT CLASS


1. THIS DERBY WILL BE OPEN TO COMPACT CARS FRONT OR REAR WHEEL DRIVE, 4&6 CYL WITH A WHEELBASE UNDER 105".

2. CARS MUST BE STRIPPED COMPLETELY BEFORE BROUGHT TO THE TRACK. THIS INCLUDES GLASS, CHROME, EXTRA SEAT BELTS, EXTRA SEATS, TRIM, MOULDING , PLASTIC, FACTORY GAS TANK, AND ALL EXTRA PIECES AND JUNK UNDER HOOD. MAKING A MESS OF THE FACILITY WILL NOT BE TOLERATED.

3. CAR NUNBERS: NEED TO BE 18 INCHES TALL AND PAINTED IN A CONTRASTING COLOR ON THE DOORS.

4. TIRES: 8 PLY MAX. NEEDS TO SAY ON IT 8 PLY OR LESS. NO TIRE IN TIRE. TUBES ARE OK.

5. ENGINES AND LOCATION: ENGINES MAY BE SWAPPED FROM MAKE TO MAKE. #1 SPARK PLUG MAY NOT BE BACK MORE THAN 4'' FROM UPPER BALL JOINT. ENGINE MAY HAVE A SOLID FAN OR CLUTCH ELIMINATOR OR ELECTRIC FAN.

7. RADIATOR AND POSITION: ANY MAKE AND MODEL RAD IS ALLOWED. THE RADIATOR MUST FIT BETWEEN FRAME RAILS AND IN STOCK LOCATION. RADIATOR MUST HOLD WATER, NOT ANTIFREEZE, OIL OR ALCOHOL. CONDENSER MAY BE USED IN REASONABLE MANNER. ELECTRIC ARE FANS ALLOWED. OVERFLOW HOSE NEEDS TO POINT AWAY FROM YOURSELF AND COMPETITORS.

8. EXHAUST: PIPES MAY RUN UP THROUGH HOOD OR UNDER CAR BUT THEY MAY NOT FACE THE DRIVER IF THROUGH THE HOOD.

9. CARS MUST HAVE LAP BELT IN WORKING CONDITION. RECOMMEND SHOULDER BELT.

10. STEERING COLUMN: MAY BE MODIFIED. STEERING BOX NEEDS TO BE IN STOCK LOCATION AND USE FACTORY HOLES. UNIVERSALS MAY BE USED.

11. FENDER WELLS: MAY BE TRIMMED, ROLLED, TUCKED, WELDED, BANDED OR FOLDED.

13. BATTERIES: MUST BE MOUNTED IN CABIN ON FLOOR AND COVERED UP. MAX OF 2.

14. GAS TANK: MAY BE MOUNTED IN CABIN AND AWAY FROM DRIVER, IF PLASTIC, NEEDS TO BE COVERED WITH METAL LID. FUEL LINE CAN BE METAL OR RUBBER. PLEASE MAKE SURE IT HAS NOT BEEN RUN FOR 30 YEARS AND HAS GOTTEN BRITTLE. TANK MUST HOLD NO MORE THAN 7 GALLONS. GAS TANK PROTECTOR OPTIONAL. MAY TIE INTO SEAT BAR IN ONE PLACE AND CANNOT TOUCH REAR FIREWALL ANYWHERE. ALSO CANNOT SPAN MORE THAN 12'' TO THE LEFT OR RIGHT OF GAS TANK. CAN ONLY WELD TO THE FLOOR. IF YOU HAVE QUESTIONS CALL ME. TANK MAY ALSO STAY IN FRONT OF REAR AXLE IF CAME FACTORY.

15. DOORS: MUST CHOOSE BETWEEN BOLTING, CHAINING, WIRING OR WELDING. CHAINS IN 2 PLACES PER DOOR SEAM WITH 3/8 CHAIN; WIRE IN 4 PLACES PER SEAM; OR WELDED WITH 3 IN WIDE 1/4 THICK STRAP. NO POST CARS MAY RUN A 4'' 1/4 THICK STRAP UP DOOR SEAM AND 6 INCHES ONTO THE ROOF. DOORS MAY NO BE WELDED ON THE INSIDE SEAM, EVEN WAGONS.

16. TRUNK: MUST CHOOSE BETWEEN WIRE, CHAINS, BOLTS OR WELDS. MAY BE WELDED WITH 3'' WIDE 1/4 THICK STRAP ALL THE WAY AROUND. IF TRUNK TOUCHES BUMPER YOU ARE ONLY ALLOWED 8 INCHES TOTAL TO TOUCH BUMPER. IF WIRED, MAX OF 4 LOOPS IN 4 PLACES. IF CHAINED, 3/8 CHAIN IN 4 PLACES. YOU MAY BOLT THE TRUNK USING 4- 3/4 RODS WITH 4 INCH PLATES. 1- 8'' ROUND HOLES MUST CUT ON TOP NEAR THE FRONT EDGE OF LID FOR INSPECTION UNLESS YOU HAVE REAR TAILIGHT HOLES. . FOR WAGONS: YOU MAY WELD TAILGATE CLOSED IN SAME MANNER AND 2- 2X4 1/4 THICK PATCHES MAY BE ADDED FROM TAILGATE TO BUMPER COVER. . 2 BARS COMING FROM ROOF TO DECKLID ON SEDANS MADE OF MAX 1X1 .250 WALL THICKNESS SQUARE TUBING OR 1 1/2 ANGLE .250 WALL THICK WILL BE ALLOWED. IT MUST ATTACH WITHIN THE FIRST 6'' OF DECKLID AND ROOF.

17. HOOD: NEEDS TO BE USED. MUST CHOOSE BETWEEN WIRE, CHAIN OR WELD OR BOLTS. HOLES, AT LEAST A TOTAL OF 144 SQUARE INCHES, NEEDS TO BE CUT IN HOOD FOR FIRE DECECTION. YOU MAY BOLT DOWN HOOD IN 4 PLACES USING 5/8 BOLTS WITH 4'' WASHER. IF USING WIRE OR CABLE YOU MAY USE 1 LOOP OF CABLE OR 4 LOOPS OF #9 FOR A MAX OF 4 PLACES IN HOOD. IF WELDING, A HOLE NEEDS TO BE CUT 20''X24'' IN CENTER. 3'' WIDE 1/4 THICK STRAP IS MAX FOR WELDING HOOD. FRONT SIDE MAY NOT BE WELDED TO CORE SUPPORT, BUT IF WELDING HOOD CLOSED YOU MAY RUN 2-3/4''X8'' LONG BOLTS THROUGH HOOD INTO CORE SUPPORT ONLY. 2 BARS COMING FROM ROOF TO FIREWALL MADE OF MAX 1X1 .250 WALL THICKNESS SQUARE TUBING OR 1 1/2 ANGLE .250 WALL THICK WILL BE ALLOWED. IT MUST ATTACH ONLY WITHIN THE FIRST 6'' OF FIREWALL AND ROOF.

18. ROOF: THERE WILL BE NO ADDING TO ROOF THICKNESS OR REINFORCING OTHER THAN FRONT/REAR BARS AND STRAP FOR NO POST CARS.

19. BUMPERS: SWAPPING FROM MAKE TO MAKE IS FINE. MAY WELD BUMPER SHOCKS AND MAY WELD WHATEVER IS NEEDED TO RETAIN BUMPER. I DO NOT WANT BUMPERS ON THE TRACK! MAY CHAIN OR WIRE BUMPER ON IN 2 PLACES. MAX BUMPER HEIGHT WILL BE 20'' MEASURED FROM GROUND TO HIGHEST POINT OF BUMPER LEFT, RIGHT OR CENTER. THIS WILL BE ENFORCED SO BE RIGHT OR COME PREPARED. PREDERBIED CARS NEED TO MEET THE SAME RULES. IF IN DOUBT CALL ME.

20. CAGE: THIS IS FOR SAFETY NOT REINFORCEMENT. YOU WILL HAVE 2 OPTIONS:
1. 4'' MAX PIPE BEHIND SEAT FROM POST TO POST, 4'' MAX PIPE ACROSS DASH, 4''
MAX PIPE OR 4'' C- CHANNEL FROM PIPE TO PIPE DOWN DOORS; OR
2. 4'' MAX PIPE GOING FROM FLOOR BEHIND DRIVER TO POST ON RIGHT SIDE, THIS IS TO KEEP FROM LOOSING DRIVERS SIDE DOOR POST FROM FLOOR. 4'' MAX PIPE ACROSS DASH, 4'' MAX PIPE OR 4'' C- CHANNEL FROM PIPE TO PIPE DOWN DOORS. THE PIPE OR CHANNEL RUNNING DOWN BOTH RIGHT AND LEFT DOORS CANNOT INDIVIDUALLY EXCEED 45'' INCLUDING THE THICKNESS OF DASH AND SEAT PIPE. I THINK THIS WILL COVER ALL MAKES OF VEHICLES. YOU MAY PUT IN A ROLL OVER BAR CONNECTED TO THE SEAT BAR GOING UNDER THE ROOF OR OUTSIDE OVER THE ROOF.

21. DRIVERS DOOR: DO WHATS NEEDED BUT CANNOT PROTRUDE OR BE SHARP. IF SO YOU WILL BE REQUIRED TO FIX IT. NOTHING CAN OVERLAP MORE THAN 6'' INCHES OF THE DOOR SEAMS.

22. FRAME: YOU ARE NOT ALLOWED TO WELD TO THE FRAME OR UNIBODY. DO NOT REINFORCE THE FRAME OR UNIBODY IN ANY WAY!

23. SUSPENSION: NEEDS TO BE WORKING. I WILL JUMP ON BUMPER AND THE SUSPENSION NEEDS TO TRAVEL. YOU MAY SWAP SUSP PARTS PER MAKES. YOU MAY NOT LEAF SPRINGS IF THE CAR CAME WITH COIL SPRINGS. CARS WITH FACTORY LEAVES NEED TO BE UNALTERED. ALL SUSPENSION AND STEERING PARTS MUST RETAIN FACTORY OR ORIGINAL MOUNTING POSITIONS. BRAKES MUST BE IN WORKING ORDER, WILL TEST AT TRACK. BOOSTERS MAY BE REMOVED.

24. BODIES: NOTCHING, TUCKING AND PRE-BENDING IS PERMITED BUT STILL NEED TO MEET BUMPER HEIGHT RULES.

25. DO NOT ASSUME THAT YOU WILL GET AWAY WITH SOMETHING IN THE GREY AREA. MY PHILOSOPHY IS NOT "BETTER TO ASK FOR FORGIVENESS THAN PERMISSION" CALL ME, I AM A REASONABLE GUY. NOT EVERYONE IS FROM THE AREA AND ALL INTERPRET THINGS DIFFERENTLY.

27. MATT GROESCHL (JOKER) 7049073082

28. ALL DECISIONS MADE BY OFFICIALS ARE FINAL AND OFFICIALS HAVE THE RIGHT TO DECLINE ENTRIES DUE TO THE LACK OF ABILITY TO CONFORM TO RULES STATED ABOVE AND MAY NOT BE REFUNDED ENTRY FEE..

THESE RULES ARE FINAL.
 
After reading the rules, i am not sure what part of welding the doors closed, bolting the hood shut, welding the bumpers on and putting 4 pipes around the driver makes these cars indestructable? i run lots of derbies and all this derby means is that the cars will last and not fall apart in 2 hits and are SAFE! Almost the exact same rules as Troy and those cars blow apart and you all cheer. Troy you can run imperials too. I think these cars are built less.

I agree, i read throu the rules and don't really see anything that will allow the cars to be overbuilt whatsoever.


I think some people are just afraid to hammer down and break some junk :driver:
 
We'll just crawl em after the derby...
 
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