hbc2

hbc2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Location
Siler City North Carolina
I have a 99' TJ, stock with a 4" superlift, quicker disconnects, and 33's. I'm trying to decide which way to go with lockers. I'm considering the front first with an Ox Locker. It's a weekend driver, offroad 3-4 times a year. Any thoughts???
 
lockers

I"m comparing air, ox, and electric lockers for price. I realize I will have to change front and rear if I change the gear ratio. (Major purchase). What gear do you recomend? I have stock 3:73 gears now, and I would go at least 4:11 or higher. Email me your store info at hbc2@earthlink.net.
 
you will notice ZERO difference from 3.73 to 4.10s In My Experience.
 
I'm curious as to why you are looking to selectably lock the front axle first, why not the rear? Do you have a D35 (which would be understandable to not lock), or a D44 rear? As stated above, just curious.
 
lockers

Mine is an automatic with a dana 30 front (open) and dana 35 rear (limited slip). Someone videotaped our last trip to Uwharrie, and on every obstacle, I observed much more loss of traction on the front than the rear. I'll probably bite the bullet and put lockers and change gear ratio both front and rear.
 
KABOOM!
 
As SkyHiK5 so well stated it, D35's don't hold up to well to abuse, i.e lockers, and also beware of limited slips, and larger tires. Lock the front, and invest into a D44 (others will say go bigger) so if you can afford it go bigger. It mainly depends on your wheelin plans. You mentioned 3 to 4 times a year, but with lockers and the ability to go 'more' places the pocket book will grow empty. Plan ahead (like you're doing) and invest wisely. I favor Ox lockers btw.
 
Good advice. If I upgraded the rear to a D44, would I then lock it to match the front? What about putting a full-time locker on the rear and a selective locker on the front? I like what I've read about Ox lockers, my only concern is routing the cable without any sharp turns.
 
There are lots of questions to ask, (I'm currently going through this same process). Since you have a DD (daily driver), it depends on your driving style, and the performance you are looking for. I understand you want a weekend warrior with road manners, so how much weekend vs. manners are you willing to settle with. Locking the rear full time will give you some interesting handling quirks, like torque steer, and when making turns with a heavy right foot, tire chirping/squealing. In snow & mud on an off-camber road you will slip to the low side. I would perfer an Ox in the rear. You control the lock or open, plus with the rear locked you sometimes will gain enough traction to not need the front axle engaged, (just pushing your driving skills to the next level). I'm old school on the front, I like to manually lock the hubs, I know that they are engaged. (So I'm going to purchase an Aussie lunchbox locker for the front of my CJ.) Again it all depends on your end result of the build up. Pending the size of tires you plan to go up with/or stay at, you might look into 4.11 or 4.56 gears. Just make sure both axles are geared the same. Also, take lot-o-pics, I thing that's a board requirement.
 
Okay, Ive found a 96' Explorer with an 8'8 rear, limited slip, 31 spline, and disc brakes (high miles, bad trans) I can get the whole truck for $100. My buddy thinks that a D44 would be stronger, but I dont think I can go wrong for the price. I have priced electric lockers, new 4:56 rings,pinions and installation kits, 30 spline axles for the D30 front, new 31 spline axles for the rear for $2600 (plus I can part out the rest of the explorer and sell my old rear axle assembly). I'll have to upgrade my master cylinder for the discs. Sound like a plan?
 
Sounds like an awful lot of money to wheel 3 or 4 times a year.
I would swap in the 8.8, gear it to match your front, lock the front, and wheel it.
 
I thought loc-rite and Quick lock are both full-time lockers and would ruin the driveability on the street.
Several people have told me that they "reinvent " their Jeeps several times over, and should have spent the money once to do it right. This is the only reason I am considering spending the money on it now. (Believe me, it would be stretching my budget, I sold my four-wheeler for this) With the right setup, I would be able to use it off road more than 3-4 times a year, with less fear of tearing something up, saving money in the long run. Am I approaching this right, or should I build it in stages??
 
A full time locker in the front is okay when the t-case is not in 4 wheel drive.
The front driveshaft will spin, but as long as it is balanced, it should be fine.
Even a full locker or spool in the rear is driveable, once you get used to it.
I run a welded rear in mine on the street all the time, but I do have more wheelbase than you.
 
hbc2 said:
Okay, Ive found a 96' Explorer with an 8'8 rear, limited slip, 31 spline, and disc brakes (high miles, bad trans) I can get the whole truck for $100. My buddy thinks that a D44 would be stronger, but I dont think I can go wrong for the price. I have priced electric lockers, new 4:56 rings,pinions and installation kits, 30 spline axles for the D30 front, new 31 spline axles for the rear for $2600 (plus I can part out the rest of the explorer and sell my old rear axle assembly). I'll have to upgrade my master cylinder for the discs. Sound like a plan?
Click to expand...
The Explorer for $100 bucks, go for it. Parts is parts.
I don't know much about the 8.8, but it's stronger that the D35.
Is an electric locker the only option?
I'm thinking on the D30.
I'm probably wrong, but I'm not sure you need to change the master cylinder, I believe you should change the proportioning valve. From disk/drum to disk/disk. Check into that, maybe someone from here might have more info.
 
I currently run a 8.8 in the rear w/detroit locker 4.88 gears stock shafts with 37x14.50's for three years now with no problems. The 8.8 has a larger ring gear than a D44, just a little smaller than a d60. The weak point is the housing. You will need to weld the tubes to the center section. As to the rear disk brakes, get a proportioning valve from a ZJ. Check w/ Andy, Zubz on here, at Carolina Rock Shop for input if you need to.
Since I have already done what you are about to do: If your staying w/ 33's or even 35's go with 4.56 gears front and rear. Put you money into the rear locker, just not the D35, and go with a lockrite or similar in the front. You will want to change the front axle if you start to wheel with any regularity so don't waste a bunch of money on it. As other poster have said, in 2wd you will hear some clicking when you turn but that is it.
Just my 2 cents:beer:
 
Ok go ahead and beat me up. What I decided (within my budget) is to keep the D35 rear and D30 front. I,m upgrading both to Yukon 30 spline axles, Yukon 4:56 gears, Auburn electric lockers, welding the tubes, and trussing the rear. I could not find a D44 rear, and did not want to go to the expense of the Ford 8.8 conversion. If the D35 wont hold up with that, it truly is a POS.
 
I'm not gonna beat you up, but did you check with the guys at Marsh auto parts before you go this route? Honda Passport (I think) 96-00 has a rear D44 with disk brakes, and there's one other. Keep checking before you give in.....
 
Yes, I have worn out Charlie at Marsh Auto Parts. He was the one to convince me to build the D35. They only had one D44 that sold for $1500 last week, nothing else but high mileage Ford 8.8s. I have ordered the parts for the D35, so I'm committed now. I hated to see that the guy on craigslist with the two D44s and air locker setup from an 05 Rubicon has reposted and dropped the price. (Oh well, its still out of my budget). If I tear up the D35, it wont be the first money Ive wasted.
 
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