Heat pump frozeen over... grrrr....

Well, I hit a few stations, asked the local hardware store good ol' boys, and found some OHV deisel.
Now I have 9.5 gallons of fuel, bled the line, running like a champ.

I guess the reason I assumed they must be different is 'cause I've only SEEN "fuel oil" when I was bleeding air out of my line at the pump. It's always been a pretty dark red, nearly maroon color.
Of course, that's also the stuff at the bottom of the tank, and even "fresh" fuid by the time I see it there has been run throu gha 40 y/o tank. Guess that's like saying "isn't break fluid a yellowish brown color?", lol.

Price at the pump was 2.99. Last I asked, price from the "fuel oil" folks is 3.59. That's quite a premium is for delivery..
 
Now (one the pump efficiency is fixed - e.g. get freon) the magic bullet will be rewiring the stat so I have more cotrol and really limit the actual use of the oil. That may be another thread...
 
Put a manual switch on the lead that kicks in the oil furnace so you can overide it..

Also 'emg. heat, is the same coils as normal heat mode (when the system deems it needed) just in that mode you tell it to ALWAYs use the coils.. My elec. thermostat allows me to check the usage of the coils.. Definitely not much heat pumping going on these days :)
 
I like our geothermal heat pump for around these times, runs on a constant 55 degrees. Also like having the return air duct over the wood stove. The two together have no problem keeping the house at 68.
 
i do hvac. take your hp cover off and look at the circuit board inside. it will have "test" pins on it. or it may say "speed up" if theres a jumper beside on pins that say 30, 60, 90 minuites or something close to that, pull jumperfrom those and put on test pins. if there is no jumper, use a jumper lead from radio shack with alligator clips and jump out the pins. the unit should go into defrost, either right away, or within up to 2 minuites. do all this with live power with the unit running. with this jumper your only dealing with 24 volt, but still dont touch it to anything else. if your unit goes into defrost, that means the circuit board is good, but your defrost thermastat is bad. if it dosent defrost, means your circuit boad is not functioning. a hp goes in to defrost when time( circ board) and temp(defrst stat) BOTH are met. it comes out when EITHER ONE are satisfied. heres the bad news- youll still have to have a company come out as most supply houses are unwilling to sell to "comman people" . at least youll know if your service tech isent honest, you can cut thru his bullcrap easier with a little knowlege. hope this helps someone.
ps. even with my markup, my price for a defrost stat is never over $100. now, if its a circuit board, you could be looking at up to 4 times that amount. oh, and an honest rule of thumb is that the life span of a heat pump is 8-14 years. i wouldent throw over $500 at a 10 year or older unit, but everyones got differant views on "fix it or replace it" debates.
 
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