Heat treating chromoly links

mcutler

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 17, 2010
Location
mt.airy nc
I feel like someone here would have had some heat treating done or know where it can be done. I've contacted a NC company and they have zero experience with the off road scene. And my ignorance on the subject, I do not know the answers to their questions.

Intent: Building Link Arms.
Chromoly 2' x .250 wall, I will weld the threaded inserts into the tubing. I am looking for a heat treater. Only company that I have discovered that builds them for you, including heat-treating is Bent Fab AZ. At over $250 per link x 4 lowers...+$1000....

Also, if anyone knows what hardness I need to request as well as proper filler material in the weld process. The treater I called couldn't answer that question...

EDIT: amid typing this JF Heat Treating in Gastonia returned my call with more info. Recommending a Rockwell Hardness of 47, one each processes of heat treat and stress relieving.

Any other info is appreciated.
 
Untitled Document link to better reading visual and source.



Video-Welding 4130 CrMoly


4130 was widely used in WWII airplanes! It was welded with oxyacetylene as TIG welding had just been invented! With oxyacetylene the material is being preheated and cooling is slow so the relatively high
Airplane%20Part.jpg
carbon 4130 was considered very weldable. With TIG or MIG there is is usually no preheat used and cooling is very rapid leading to possible hard and brittle welds without employing precautions.

Of interest, in WWII about 40% of the workforce were women. This is a picture from War Archives is of Ann Rosner oxyacetylene welding an aircraft supercharger duct at Ford's Willow Run plant.

When writing "Advanced Automotive Welding" for CarTech I talked with Gene Golliet about his welding of 4130 aircraft tubing in shops in Southern California during the War. Some experimental aircraft still use and prefer that welding process.

Welding 4130 Chrome Moly Steel for Race Cars
During the WW II era 4130 high strength steel was used for some aircraft components. At that time oxy-acetylene was the welding process of choice for many of these items. The preheat and slow cooling inherent with that process made welding the nominal 0.30 carbon steel relatively straight forward (assuming one could oxyacetylene weld!). However with more modern welding process like TIG and MIG, the cooling rates can be much faster and care must be taken to avoid forming high hardness and brittle Martensite on cooling transformation. On heavier sections preheat and post weld heat treatment should be used. With the proper post weld heat treatment strengths of 200,000 psi can be achieved with reasonable toughness by tempering the Martensite that forms in the heat treating process. However when welding race car tubing, preheat is not often used nor are the parts post weld heat treated.

Most of the tubing used for race car construction is referred to as normalized. This refers to the heat treatment and cooling rate the tubing was subjected to in manufacture. Most normalized tubing will range in tensile strength from 95,000 to 110,000 psi. This can be welded with the proper filler metals to achieve similar strengths. Although there are more weldable grades of steel (those with lower carbon content from 0.06 to 0.15) in the 100,000 to 115,000 psi tensile strength range readily available for plate and sheet, 4130 remains a commonly used grade for tubing. Just be sure to take the precautions noted when welding.

The following is extracted from an article I wrote for the American Welding Societies technical journal called "The Welding Journal". It has additional information to that presented in the publication. You can see the article in the 2003 April issue of the AWS Welding Journal:

PROPER FILLER METAL CHOICE FOR WELDING 4130
In the mid 1970’s, while managing an R&D group for a leading welding shielding gas/filler metals manufacturer, a phone call was received from a dragster chassis builder. They wanted to weld 4130 tubing and needed a filler metal suggestion. Being a “car buff,” a number of alternatives were considered to provide the optimum solution. After careful review of their requirements and desired welding practices, the solution was defined. They were welding 4130 normalized tubing, it would not be heat treated after welding, preheat was not desirable and most of the weld joints were intersecting tubes that required fillet welds. The best filler material to use was a low carbon alloy now called ESAB Spoolarc 65 (meeting an American Welding Society (AWS) ER70S-2 specification). The main objective is to produce porosity and crack free weld deposits. This welding alloy has a very low carbon content, nominally 0.06, which can handle dilution into the relatively high (in terms of weld metal), 0.30 carbon in the 4130. The resulting diluted weld deposit has a tensile strength of approximately 590 to 620 MPa ( 85,000 to 90,000 psi.) The actual strength will depend on the amount of dilution with the 4130, weld bead size and material thickness. This is usually an under match for the 4130 tubing which could have a 760 to 800 MPa (100,000 to 115,000 psi) tensile strength depending on how the material was processed. [Added Note: some normalized 4130 tubing may be only have a 90,000 psi tensile strength, it depends on the manufacturer] However, if extra joint strength is required, a slightly larger fillet size or gussets can be employed. In addition, this welding wire contains small amounts of aluminum, titanium and zirconium. Although these elements were initially added to handle welding over mill scale, they also contribute to a less fluid weld puddle. The benefit to the welder is, it is easier to make out of position welds. Note, it is suggested all welding on 4130 be performed on ground surfaces free of oil or grease (to keep the hydrogen levels as low as possible).

Several years after making this suggestion, when looking at a catalog from the dragster chassis manufacturer, it was interesting to note they were advertising their use of the ER70S-2 filler metal for their 4130 welding. In fact, they were offering it for sale for those customers purchasing frame parts and doing their own welding!

The Internet was searched to see what current recommendations were being made for joining 4130 tubing. Several hundred sites were found that recommend the ER70S-2 welding rod/wire alloy. It was the predominant recommendation. Typical of the Internet however, there were many improper descriptions of why this alloy should be used and several incorrect recommendations.

Need a higher strength deposit? If a higher strength weld is required for perhaps a butt weld that cannot be reinforced, strengthened with a gusset, or put in a less critically stressed area, there are possible solutions. The use of Spoolarc 83, which contains 0.50 Moly, will provide a weld deposit with higher strength. When diluted into the 4130 base material a weld tensile level of 760 to 800 MPa (110,000 to 115,000 psi) can be achieved. If this higher strength welding wire is employed, a minimum preheat of 65 degrees C (150 degrees F) is suggested. Weld strength can increase to a level slightly higher than the normalized 4130 with Spoolarc 83 (AWS ER 80D-2). Do not use an austenitic stainless steel such as an ER308L, (which is recommended on some Internet sites). Diluting this or similar austenitic stainless alloys with 4130 can lead to cracks. Also, consider that providing a higher strength weld deposit cannot compensate for the reduction in strength that will occur in the parent metal immediately next to the weld deposit.
For Parts to be "Heat Treated" (meaning carefully raising the part to 1600 F; Quenching in water; then Reheating precisely to 1000 F; then Slow Cooling) After Welding: Note: modified with additional information obtained since writing this article. Click to See Detailed Explanation:)

If the part is to be used for potentially high impact, structural applications and will be heat-treated after welding, a matching chemistry or matching hardenability filler metal to the 4130 should be employed. This may be a filler metal with somewhat lower carbon but increased moly, chrome, manganese etc. Because of the relatively high carbon, a minimum of 200 degrees C, (400 degrees F) preheat and very slow cooling after welding should be used to avoid cracking. Heat treating after welding refers to the finished welded part being heated to 870 degrees C (1600 degrees F), quenched in oil or water then tempered back to say 540 degrees C (1000 degrees F). A complex cycle, but this will result in a tensile strength of approximately 1035 MPa (150,000 psi). Since the weld is the same chemistry as the base material, it and the heat affected zone will have the similar properties as the base material when heat-treated. All critical welds of this type should be inspected for internal soundness to assure they are free from cracks.

End Of Abstracted Article

Advanced Automotive Welding that also discusses the implications in detail):

TIG, MIG, or Base


Rod, Wire or (Base)

Tensile Strength,

ksi

Elongation,

%

Impact Strength;

ft-lbs

TIG Weld ER70S-2 82 31% 170
MIG Weld ER70S-2 82 28% 45
MIG Weld ER80S-D2 110 22% 85
Base Material (Normalized 4130) ~90 ~25% ~60
Bottom Line:

Even when not diluted with 4130, ER70S-2 has a tensile strength just 9% under typical Normalized 4130. ER80S-D2 has a strength, with no dilution with the higher carbon 4130, that is 22% higher than Normalized 4130. Significantly higher strength weld metal than base metal may cause a weldment, when stressed under load, to yield excessively or initiate failures in the heat affected zone.

The elongation of Normalized 4130 (a measure of ductility) is less than the very ductile ER70S-2 weld. The higher strength ER80S-D2 weld has a lower elongation than the base material.

The impact properties of a TIG weld made with ER70S-2 are excellent at 170 ft-lbs. Note, the reason TIG welds have higher impact toughness than MIG welds made with the same alloy filler metal is discussed in the Advanced Automotive Welding book.

CHECK WELD QUALITY

It is very important to check weld quality and understand the types of defects that could be encountered. Check your weld procedures and keep them consistent. You should make some sample welds and bend them to destruction to assure failure occurs only after considerable bending has taken place. Look for porosity or cracks that may have been present in the weld. It would be a wise investment to hire the services of an American Welding Society (AWS) Certified Welding Inspector (CWI). There are some 25,000 registered. In fact many of them are members of the 65,000 member AWS. They can advise on procedures and what to check for such as small undercuts at the weld toe of fillet welds that can lead to premature failure.

Consistently following the proper weld procedures and knowing how to check for possible weld problems is of major importance.

Closing Suggestion
When welding 4130 chrome moly in the normalized condition, AWS ER70S-2 filler metal, with its low carbon content is the proper choice. Make sufficiently large fillets and make them flat, not concave. If the part is to be heat-treated after welding, then a filler metal matching the 4130 chemistry should be employed. This requires preheat and special precautions to avoid cracking.

Be sure to employ the skills of a qualified welder who has experience welding this material. Also inspection of the final welds by an Certified Welding Inspector (Certified by The American Welding Society) is highly recommended.

(Welding Mild Steel Chassis's or Roll Bars? Click Here)
 
another "Opinion" the one I also follow. The information in both articles are sound. I follow this procedure as my go to. I'm usually interested in overall strength in a restrained member.


TIG Welding Chrome-Moly Tubing | Lincoln Electric direct link






Here are answers to the top ten most frequently asked questions about TIG welding 4130 Chrome-Moly. These attached procedures apply to typical sporting applications such as experimental airplanes, racing car frames, roll cages, go-carts, bicycles, and motorcycle frames. The suitability of these techniques and procedures must be evaluated for your specific application.

Q. Can I weld 4130 using the TIG process?
A. Yes, 4130 Chrome-Moly has been TIG welded in the aerospace and aircraft industries for years. As with all welding, proper procedures and techniques must be followed.

Q. Do I need to pre-heat?
A. Thin wall tubing (< 0.120" wall) applications do not typically require the normal 300ºF to 400ºF pre-heat to obtain acceptable results. However, tubing should be at room temperature (70ºF) or above before welding.



chrome-moly.jpg
Q. What filler material do I use?
A. Although there are several good filler materials, ER80S-D2, is one you should consider. This filler material is capable of producing welds that approximate the strength of 4130. ER70S-2 is an acceptable alternative to ER80S-D2, as is ER70S-6, although the weld strength will be slightly lower.

Q. When I use ER70S-2 filler material, do I give up strength for elongation?
A. Yes. The filler material, when diluted with the parent material, will typically undermatch the 4130. However, with the proper joint design (such as cluster or gusset, for example), the cross-sectional area and linear inches of weld can compensate for the reduced weld deposit strength.

Q. Why is 4130 filler metal not recommended?
A. 4130 filler is typically used for applications where the weld will be heat treated. Due to its higher hardness and reduced elongation, it is not recommended for sporting applications such as experimental airplanes, race car frames, roll cages, etc.















Q. Can I weld 4130 using any other filler metals?
A. Some fabricators prefer to use austenitic stainless steel fillers to weld 4130 tubing. This is acceptable provided 310 or 312 stainless steel fillers are used. Other stainless steel fillers can cause cracking. Stainless filler material is typically more expensive.

Q. Do I need to heat treat (stress relieve) 4130 after welding?
A. Thin wall tubing normally does not require stress relief. For parts thicker than .120", stress-relieving is recommended and 1,100ºF is the optimum temperature for tubing applications. An Oxy/Acetylene torch with neutral flame can be used. It should be oscillated to avoid hot spots.

Q. Do I have to pre-clean 4130 material?
A. Remove surface scale and oils with mild abrasives and acetone. Wipe to remove all oils and lubricants. All burrs should be removed with a hand scraper or de-burring tool. Better welding results with clean materials.

Q. Do I need to back-purge 4130 material?
A. Backpurging is not normally necessary, although some fabricators do. It will not hurt the weld and may improve the root pass of some welds.

Q. Should I quench the metal after I finish welding?
A. ABSOLUTELY NOT! Rapid quenching of the metal will create problems such as cracking and lamellar tearing. Always allow the weld to slow cool.


WELDING SPECIFICATION: Aircraft and Motorsports

General Information:

Remove all oxides and burrs within 3" of weld area
Acetone wipe to remove all cutting oils
Assemble and tack weld in joint in a minimum of four (4) places with TIG
Tubing should be at minimum temperature of 70ºF (room temperature
TIG weld per parameters specified using a Lincoln Electric Precision TIG® welder.


Example Weld Schedule Information

PARENT MATERIAL: 4130
MATERIAL CONDITION: Condition (N)
MATERIAL THICKNESS: .035" Wall Thickness
FILLER MATERIAL: ER80S-D2 .035" Diameter
JOINT TYPE: 90º Tube to Tube.
JOINT PREP: Abrasive Clean/Acetone Wipe
JOINT GAP: .000-.010
CURRENT TYPE: D.C.E.N. (DC Electrode Negative)
AMPERAGE: 20 - 40 amps
VOLTAGE: 9-12 Volts
TORCH TYPE: PTA-9 or PTW-20 Magnum® Pro-Torch™ TIG Torch
CUP SIZE: Gas Lens 7/16" Orifice
CUP TYPE: Ceramic
TUNGSTEN TYPE: 2% Thoriated
TUNGSTEN SIZE: 1/16" Diameter
TUNGSTEN SHAPE: Pointed
TORCH GAS: Argon
FLOW RATE: 15-25 C.F.H.
BACK-UP GAS: Argon
FLOW RATE: 5-10 C.F.H.
TACKING SEQUENCE: 4-Places (min.)

Filler Material Options:

Option #1 ER80S-D2
Option #2 ER70S-2
Option #3 ER70S-6

FOOTNOTE: Welding properties change from operator to operator. Techniques such as travel speed, filler type, filler deposition rates, current (amperage), gas shielding, and arc voltage (distance between tungsten and weld puddle) all have an effect towards heat input, weld strength, and elongation.
 
Your also trying to normalize the weld joint. Not trying to make harder or softer......just even out the metallurgy and stress relieve the weldment and HAZ.
 
Last edited:
The last 4130 parts I welded where for Boeing aircraft. They where a tool for engine work. The parts came from a oven preheated. Welded and placed back in oven. Oven turned off and slow cooled. They where then sent off to be normalized and zinc plated.

For large components this is extremely cost prohibitive. These parts could be held in one hand. The weld spec was a 1/16 Fillet.
 
The last 4130 parts I welded where for Boeing aircraft. They where a tool for engine work. The parts came from a oven preheated. Welded and placed back in oven. Oven turned off and slow cooled. They where then sent off to be normalized and zinc plated.

For large components this is extremely cost prohibitive. These parts could be held in one hand. The weld spec was a 1/16 Fillet.


I had both of those articles saved, forgot about them. Thanks Andrew. Upon further calls, some ppl are heat treating before welding even, testifying that the welding of the insert out on the end of the tube is negligible due to we're aiming to make the tube as strong as possible through the center of its length to retain memory and prevent bending. (I would rather treat/relieve the entire unit, obviously using 4130 (n) threaded inserts.) The gentleman a J&F was quite helpful and didn't just fain ignorance because it was an application he was not familiar with. He will get my business, because he listened, aimed to educate and be educated. And his off the cuff price is right. Do a batch of 4 (less than 100lb.), two processes treat/relief, less than the cost of one mail order link. Myself supplying the link in welded condition.

I knew you would be intrigued and chime in, thanks Andrew.
 
Any reason not to go with 7075 T6 links?

By many reports, ht chromo is superior to 7075 solid (O). Greater memory and overall strength, similar weight. I have personally bent aluminum quite regularly. Just trying to up my game as a builder. Reports of them lasting years on the cars that see the most extreme trails.
 
A Heavy wall joint like your describing will require special attention to heat soak and inner pass temps. Getting it to and holding higher elevated temps makes all the metallurgy(without being extremely technical) more fluid.

In all the graphs showing grain structure, boundaries, and all the "SCIENCE of METALS" its a curve or line developed from TEMP vs. TIME. Elevate or extend one or the over...or both and magic happens. Sometimes good. Sometimes pure voodoo!
 
All the chromo I’ve welded, both for heat treated and non heat treated stuff, I used er80 filler versus er70.

Pretty sure you can get er-90, or er100/110 but I’m not sure the cost or actual availability.

My nerd brain says to use filler that matches or exceeds the psi of the base metal, but experience tells me er80 is sufficient with minimal increased cost over er70.

I’m theorizing the problem with higher psi filler used with 4130/4340 encounters a problem where the ductility doesn’t match up well and points back to the er70/er80.

Also takes my brain back to this:

Er70 on 1018/1026 DOM is acceptable strength.

4130/4340 is higher strength than 1018/1026.

4130/4340 needs pwht to get rid of the HAZ that causes massive brittleness.

So it’s not paramount to have the weld psi greater than the base metal, it’s important to have enough psi of the filler to make it last, and paramount to pwht bc of the HAZ.

Edit: I prefer er70s2 better in groove welds and prefer er70s6 for fillets. It’s entirely my opinion that the s-6 flows out easier to wet and fill the toes better than s-2. For all those reasons I like the s-2 in grooves so it stays better exactly where I want it.

I don’t remember the alloying options available if any for ER-80 or what to recommend.
 
I had both of those articles saved, forgot about them. Thanks Andrew. Upon further calls, some ppl are heat treating before welding even, testifying that the welding of the insert out on the end of the tube is negligible due to we're aiming to make the tube as strong as possible through the center of its length to retain memory and prevent bending. (I would rather treat/relieve the entire unit, obviously using 4130 (n) threaded inserts.) The gentleman a J&F was quite helpful and didn't just fain ignorance because it was an application he was not familiar with. He will get my business, because he listened, aimed to educate and be educated. And his off the cuff price is right. Do a batch of 4 (less than 100lb.), two processes treat/relief, less than the cost of one mail order link. Myself supplying the link in welded condition.

I knew you would be intrigued and chime in, thanks Andrew.
You probably can buy stock in two conditions.....as is from the drawn condition and some already processed with some type of treatment. Machinist would be more familiar with the two types. Like buying a higher carbon steel in the vs. easiest to machine, then sending it to be thru or surface hardened to specifics.
 
You probably can buy stock in two conditions.....as is from the drawn condition and some already processed with some type of treatment. Machinist would be more familiar with the two types. Like buying a higher carbon steel in the vs. easiest to machine, then sending it to be thru or surface hardened to specifics.

I think this is true, all the tube I have ever gotten was in the normalized condition. I remember more options with solids and different shapes more for machining rather than tubing.
 
All the chromo I’ve welded, both for heat treated and non heat treated stuff, I used er80 filler versus er70.

Pretty sure you can get er-90, or er100/110 but I’m not sure the cost or actual availability.

My nerd brain says to use filler that matches or exceeds the psi of the base metal, but experience tells me er80 is sufficient with minimal increased cost over er70.

I’m theorizing the problem with higher psi filler used with 4130/4340 encounters a problem where the ductility doesn’t match up well and points back to the er70/er80.

Also takes my brain back to this:

Er70 on 1018/1026 DOM is acceptable strength.

4130/4340 is higher strength than 1018/1026.

4130/4340 needs pwht to get rid of the HAZ that causes massive brittleness.

So it’s not paramount to have the weld psi greater than the base metal, it’s important to have enough psi of the filler to make it last, and paramount to pwht bc of the HAZ.

Edit: I prefer er70s2 better in groove welds and prefer er70s6 for fillets. It’s entirely my opinion that the s-6 flows out easier to wet and fill the toes better than s-2. For all those reasons I like the s-2 in grooves so it stays better exactly where I want it.

I don’t remember the alloying options available if any for ER-80 or what to recommend.

Nearly every 4130 chassis builder I have discussed with, from U4 to TT uses er70-2, unless HT. Then they use er80. HT comp didn't seem to care, but wasn't 100% sure, given ignorance of our apllication.
 
Nearly every 4130 chassis builder I have discussed with, from U4 to TT uses er70-2, unless HT. Then they use er80. HT comp didn't seem to care, but wasn't 100% sure, given ignorance of our apllication.
Like the two articles. In a super restrained ultimate strenght use er80. Chasis design giving the rigidity of its members but allowing a shock to distort over cracking use er70-2. Yes the joint is in tensile weaker but it will elongate and take abuse. This in my eyes also says: reduced fatigue cracks over miles of abuse.

Edit: unless you can pony up to heat treat an entire chassis........then er80 rules the world.
 
Why not 7075 pressed into some steel tube?
 
Why not 7075 pressed into some steel tube?
Sure. It works very well. Done it on a couple occasions for links and frame components. Plan to do it again on the next subframe. Going to give chromoly a try on the links this time though. Those that swear by it, and have used aluminum in the past, won't go back. 3-5 times the life of aluminum, doesn't (when HT) gouge like aluminum, similar weight. Obviously more cost initially, but due to the life cycle of it's competitors, it's money saved... allegedly. And now I'm confident in my tig processes , and have found a reasonable heat treat vendor, I'll give it a shot.

(I'll also be going with AR plate for the skid). Again less gouging over steel and especially aluminum.

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You might have to do some field testing. 47c is about as hard as you're going to get with 4130, so if they don't start breaking in two just go with it. And if you're breaking 2x.250" 4130ht links then Jesus you might need to go 3" solid.
 
Sure. It works very well. Done it on a couple occasions for links and frame components. Plan to do it again on the next subframe. Going to give chromoly a try on the links this time though. Those that swear by it, and have used aluminum in the past, won't go back. 3-5 times the life of aluminum, doesn't (when HT) gouge like aluminum, similar weight. Obviously more cost initially, but due to the life cycle of it's competitors, it's money saved... allegedly. And now I'm confident in my tig processes , and have found a reasonable heat treat vendor, I'll give it a shot.

(I'll also be going with AR plate for the skid). Again less gouging over steel and especially aluminum.

Sent from my SM-G892A using Tapatalk
I've always thought to myself that aluminum would act like grip tape on rocks. Like "might as well use it as anti traction for moving forward."
 
You might have to do some field testing. 47c is about as hard as you're going to get with 4130, so if they don't start breaking in two just go with it. And if you're breaking 2x.250" 4130ht links then Jesus you might need to go 3" solid.
Everything I found said to stay between 40-46 for links. I guess we'll find out[emoji28]
I've always thought to myself that aluminum would act like grip tape on rocks. Like "might as well use it as anti traction for moving forward."
It really does, and sucks ass for a skid plate.

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