HEI & TBI... yeah another one...

Granny

Granny

One day at a time...
Joined
Jun 12, 2007
Location
Cabarrus County (Rimertown)
I'm preparing to put a new ignition and TBI in my little red CJ-5. The first thing I need to know... does anyone have one of these distributors, and can you tell me what the module (under the rotor) looks like? I need to know if the module has a pin on it that I can pull a signal to fire the injectors. This will be going on an AMC 304 V8.

dist.png


Also, for Caver Dave... since I sold Granny 2, I need to check in to see if you are PO'ed at me for doing it, and if not, will you still burn another chip for me? :lol:
 
I have what looks like the same thing that I put on my 350 with a TBI and it works. It is not that exact one for obvious reasonsm but I can say it started on Sunday!
 
Don, looks like I have the same Dist. Bought it from a member,a year ago, who purchased it off E-Bay. [$100] I haven't installed it yet, should have given it to James, but he has enough to do.
As I understand it, mine is a 1 wire hook up. Didn't get any harness, but it has 2 blades, one for ignition [12v], & one for a tach. If I understand what your asking, the module has 2 wires, into a blade connection.
Green,& Gray. Hope you can see in my pics.
 

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Thanks guys... Rodney's pic is showing a 4-pin module which would have to be replaced with either a 7-pin or an externally mounted 8-pin module. This is what I wanted know though... Thanks again. :beer:
 
Don, for my other yj I boought new HEI of Ebay for 60 bucks including shipping specifically for a jeep 6 cylinder, you do not have to change the gear. it does only have the 4 pin though
 
Brad, I have heard stories that the gear on some of those budget distros will destroy the gear on the camshaft due to incorrect matching, and possibly the cheaper distro gear is actually harder than the cam gear. I have had no personal experience with this, but I believe there was a thread on here a while back about it. Personally, I will use my old gear if at all possible. :driver:
 
Use the old gear or replace with a set of matched gears on AMC V8's. The lesser priced aftermarket GM HEI style Distros have gears that are to hard.
 
I did a good amount of searching/reading on this subject today... it looks like my best option for the 304 engine is to use the stock distributor with an externally mounted 8-pin module. The ECM will control the timing and an output from the module will fire the injectors. Keep in mind... it's cold weather, I'm retired and have too much free time on my hands right now. :lol:
 
Granny said:
I did a good amount of searching/reading on this subject today... it looks like my best option for the 304 engine is to use the stock distributor with an externally mounted 8-pin module. The ECM will control the timing and an output from the module will fire the injectors. Keep in mind... it's cold weather, I'm retired and have too much free time on my hands right now. :lol:
Click to expand...
Got just what you need! Actually have it on Craigs List! [hint hint-anybody?]
 

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If the stock 304 distributor is like a duraspark ford one the that's basically what I've got running my ford. I mounted the gm 8 pin module on a piece of angle iron bolted to the firewall with heat sink paste. I made the pickup wires a twisted pair with a drill after fighting some random misfires.

Sent with two cans and some string.
 
Tim, it's basically the same distrubutor, just fits the jeep. Did you phase the rotor like Bill Hamilton explains on the BinderPlanet? I will also use an 8-pin module mounted externally this time.

Rodney, you should bolt that contraption to your new axle... might help you plane out in a mudhole situation! :flipoff2:
 
I didn't phase anything on mine, the distributor was already running the truck with the carb. I didn't even remove it from the engine, just locked out the weights by tack welding everything and removed the vacuum line. Ran the wires to the new module. After cranking it on tbi I rechecked the timing it was still 10 degrees. If you get those two pickup wires backwards the timing will be off about 20 degrees, but I can't remember which direction right now.

Sent with two cans and some string.
 
I forgot to mention that I'm running the wider ford duraspark II cap, which uses a plastic funnel like adapter which snaps on the distrubutor base, then the cap which is only like 3/4" thick not counting the posts but is like 2" wider than the distributor base. The larger diameter cap makes phasing less of a problem since the plug wire terminals are further apart, the spark is less likely to jump to the wrong post. If you are using a cap the same diameter as the aluminum base you may want to see if the cap adapter, cap and rotor will swap over from a truck like mine, ask for the parts for a 78 f150 with a 351 modified. I'd bet the ford parts would go right on the 304 distributor. I even used the duraspark II cap, adapter, and rotor on the older ford points style distributor on my 67 fairlane's 390, since I was getting cross fire in the cap with the MSD ignition. It was a direct swap.
 
Another too-much-free-time question... the YJ had 3/8" (supply) and 5/16" (return) lines from the tank to the throttle body. An E2000 pump worked perfectly and provided the correct fuel pressure. However, the CJ sending unit on the tank accepts 5/16" (supply) and 1/4" (return) lines. Will that size difference cause me problems? Will the E2000 still work? I'm trying to plan some of this ahead.
 
I'd try to find a way to replace the 1/4 fitting with something bigger. Maybe make the 5/16 fitting a return and cut out the small fitting and braze in a 3/8. I wouldn't run less than 5/16 return with the higher pressure e2000 pumps.

Sent with two cans and some string.
 
I pretty much expected that answer. Maybe an E8445 might do it. Per my AZ parts man: not a store item, but readily available via the warehouse (order in morning, receive in afternoon). They're a bit more pricey, but if I don't have to do more chopping maybe worth the extra cost. I can always pack a spare.
 
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