Help w/Detroit EZ Locker in Asheville

RRADFORD9ER

New Member
Joined
Dec 3, 2006
Location
Asheville
I installed an EZ locker in the Jeep's rear axle over the weekend, and now its popping & clunking all over the place. Its locking and unlocking when going in a straight line. This is my first experience with any type of locker, so I'm looking for advice from anyone with some experience with a lunchbox type locker. I was expecting some feedback from the locker in turns, but not while going straight. Everything I've read has said if the lockers unloading while going straight, something's up.

I pulled the diff last night to look again, and couldn't find anything obviously wrong. Is there a gap specification for the EZ Locker like there is for the Aussie? I downloaded some instruction manuals from Detroit's website and couldn't find anything.

Driving in circles works fine, the locker unlocks and ratchets like its supposed to. The Tire spin test I'm not so sure about. I have to turn the tires very slowly to get them to both turn in the same direction. If I turn them even slightly fast, the locker unlocks (ratchets) and only one wheel spins.

Thanks for any help
Ryan
 
I had the same problems with a lock-rite. The only way to fix it is to get rid of it. I reinstalled mine several times, changing the gap a little each time, and it never got any better. I finally installed a Detroit True-Trac and I love it. You can't feel it on the street, and it has quite a bit of traction off-road.
 
Check your tires. If the tire diameters are mismatched quite a bit (or tire pressures are out of whack side to side) it can cause the locker to try to ratchet and lock when driving in a straight line down the road.

Detroit recommends in their literature for their No-Slip diffs to measure from the ground to the center of the wheel hub and adjust tire pressure to even them out. Lock-Right recommends using actual rolling-diameter measurements of all 4 tires on the vehicle and using the two that are closest. Both methods work, obviously the second is better.

Try that before trashing it.
 
help

did you put yuor thush washers back in it happened to one of me all knowing buddys he put the unit in without installing the outside washers and it was to loose in the carrier to work right .i have been running a ez lock in my front dana 44 with 36 tsl for 4 years without the first probelm .most of the noise is caused front incorrect install check for yuor washers and the springs are installed
 
Yep, reused the thrust washers. The gap measured out at .135, which is tighter than Aussie's specifications for their locker. (To my understanding, if the thrust washers were worn out, the gap would be too wide.) However, since I've got a Detroit, I don't know how relevant Aussie's numbers are.
 
RRADFORD9ER said:
Tires are basically new (<5k miles) and both dead on 33 psi cold.
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I have seen identical new tires measure different when mounted on a rig... gas tank on one side, drivers weight, uneven load in the bed- alot of things could have an effect.

Check the height from the center of the hub to the ground on both sides as explained above. At least eliminate it- don't assume...
 
novacayne75 said:
ill look at it give me a call 779-2242 im in asheville + i want to check out your grand
Click to expand...


Well this was about the 5th time I've opened up the diff to deal with the locker so I went ahead and reinstalled the spider gears today. The clunking/popping sounded really nasty, but thankfully it didn't look like there was any damage to the differential. I still feel like it should have been more difficult to break the locker loose during the tire turning test.

Nova, I'll get up with you sometime. Do you know any of the guys that run Torque (near Owen HS with all of the Rovers)? I coach a 13U baseball team that practices out at Owen HS every weekend and always drive by the shop. Some of the rigs look pretty sweet.

Ryan
 
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