How do you tie down your rig on the trailer?

BigClay

BigClay

Knower of useless ZJ things
Joined
Sep 24, 2008
Location
Winston-Salem
Looking for opinions on how to strap down a rig to the trailer. Do you just secure the axles, or do you also strap down the body to compress the springs a little?

Basically, do you use any straps to "suck down" the body of the trailered rig to minimize it leaning while towing?
 
I strap to the axles without sucking down suspension and have never had any problems leaning or swaying on the trailer.
 
I use straps that are made to go over the tires on the front and then strap the axle in the rear. I have never lost a jeep yet.
 
DOT requires 2 straps front and rear for a properly tied down vehicle on a trailer. They must go to the frame or proper attachment point. If you look at every car on the road there are two holes or tabs or hooks on the front and rear for this purpose. I use two front and rear every where I go. On long trips through the mountains I also add one to each axle.
 
I use a chain on the rear axle. Crossed straps on the front. Then a strap to suck down the suspension, but not down to the bumps. My rig sways a little on the trailer, but it's a little heavier up top and and my trailer is a deck over so it sits a little high.

I don't use a binder on the rear chain. I just loop it over the axle and slowly drive forward until there is a little tension. Then I leave it in nuetral an pull it all thight with the front straps. This way I don't overlaod the straps with a steel load binder. Then once its secure I set the parking brake and put it in gear.

I have never had anything move on the trailer. I used to to equipment (bobcat and backhoe) about everyday when I owned my landscape business. I used all chains and binders for that.

The reason I use the chain on the rear is in case all else fails and there is an accident a chain is less likely to break than a strap (I know all things are breakable) and would help prevent my rig from coming through the cab on the tow rig hurting me or the kids.
 
ghost said:
DOT requires 2 straps front and rear for a properly tied down vehicle on a trailer. They must go to the frame or proper attachment point. If you look at every car on the road there are two holes or tabs or hooks on the front and rear for this purpose. I use two front and rear every where I go. On long trips through the mountains I also add one to each axle.
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So are you saying the DOT requires you to attach straps to the body? My rig is a uni so I don't have a frame, but I do have D-rings on the front and rear bumpers for extraction purposes that I could also use to strap it down to the trailer.


hadfield4wd said:
I use a chain on the rear axle. Crossed straps on the front. Then a strap to suck down the suspension, but not down to the bumps. My rig sways a little on the trailer, but it's a little heavier up top and and my trailer is a deck over so it sits a little high.
I don't use a binder on the rear chain. I just loop it over the axle and slowly drive forward until there is a little tension. Then I leave it in nuetral an pull it all thight with the front straps. This way I don't overlaod the straps with a steel load binder. Then once its secure I set the parking brake and put it in gear.
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When you say put it in gear, do you have a manual transmission?

hadfield4wd said:
The reason I use the chain on the rear is in case all else fails and there is an accident a chain is less likely to break than a strap (I know all things are breakable) and would help prevent my rig from coming through the cab on the tow rig hurting me or the kids.
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Good trick, never thought of that. I was thinking of using chain in the front to keep, but I like your logic about putting it in the rear.
 
2 X'ed in front and rear to the axle. 1 front and rear connecting to centered Dring on bumper to suck down body. Doesn't budge.
 
BigClay said:
When you say put it in gear, do you have a manual transmission?
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Yes it's manual.

BigClay said:
Good trick, never thought of that. I was thinking of using chain in the front to keep, but I like your logic about putting it in the rear.
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Thanks I know it a little selfish but I'm more concerned about me.:rolleyes:

Also a note I will have everything on seperat D Rings shortly. So the suck down and axle tiedowns will be 2 sets of D rings.
 
BigClay said:
So are you saying the DOT requires you to attach straps to the body? My rig is a uni so I don't have a frame, but I do have D-rings on the front and rear bumpers for extraction purposes that I could also use to strap it down to the trailer.
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If you look there will be either a round hole or an oval one in the unibody "frame rail" that the transport companies used to get it from the factory to the showroom. SOme of the import cars have little tabs that look like a tow point but they are actually just there to hold it on a trailer. I have an xj and the holes are fairly far back on the "frame rail' IIRC. If you ever get a chance look at the end of a car hauler chain. It has two or three different style "hooks" on it for this purpose. When we haul hummers and such for the DOD they require 2 chains and binders front and rear for transport. Now you know why it has the d-rings front and rear like it does. It isn't jsut for recovery. I use my front winch bumper to tie too. (If its strong enough to winch off of it should be fine to tie to is my thinking.) and my rear bumper has two d-rings and it ties into the unibody rail like a class 3 hitch just not as far back. If any of you ever get stopped by the DOT man and it is not properly tied down and he feels like being a biatch he can ticket you for it not being properly tied down. While I was typing this I thought I would find the regs. I was wrong. It's heavy equipment that requires the 4 tie downs. Autos require 2 heavy equipment requires 4. Here are the regs:

http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/safety-security/safety-initiatives/cargo/cs-manual-chap9.htm

http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/safety-security/safety-initiatives/cargo/cs-manual-chap10.htm
 
Good links Ghost. I have been told that grade 70 chain is also required, anyone else heard this?
 
BigClay said:
Good links Ghost. I have been told that grade 70 chain is also required, anyone else heard this?
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NP I was tieing down per what we are required to tie down with for hauling for the DOD. I had asked one of the drivers but decieded to check it.
 
Clay -

Straps vs chains - I used to only use chains in the rear and straps up front to tighten. Over the years I have seen/read enough accident reports on using straps in the rear that I now feel comfortable using them in the rear. That said, I always carry a chain and an few extra ratchet straps. Northern has them for <$20 ($15 on sale)

Where - I recamend attaching to the axles. If I had a 12k hummer that flexed 3" I would probably also hook it to the bumpers/frame. An unloaed HUMV probably isn't bouncing all over going down the road. A flexy rig, possibly on aired down tires, lifted etc. will get bouncing around. Straps/Chains etc. can come undone with all that motion.

Use axle straps - Till save your straps some wear/tear and give you perfect place to attach the hook end. They are thick and have a outer protective cover. They are less likely to get folded or pinched into a small crevice.

my .02 - What ever you use, use 4 separate items to attach your rig. Be it 4 chains, 4 straps or 2+2.

I took a long 20' chain and cut it down and added large hooks to make it fast/easy to attach them to axle straps. Then pulled the cinch link through the D-ring back onto the chain.

I also have shortened my strap ends some as to not have 15' of extra strap all over. I still have long ones for holding cargo on etc..

Crossing Straps/Chains - I've changed how i've done this over the years. I used to always X the straps/chains. Now I do not. I have found that even attaching 'straight' to the axle gives plenty of / \ angle on them. What I have concluded from looking at various setups is to much angle is bad. With 4 straps crossed "x" if any 1 strap fails or comes loose. The opposing strap is no longer countered by the opposing strap. With them straight on you still have a good pull.

There are always exceptions and I have and will deviate where/when I have to. But as you gain experience towing, you will know when/where to do so.

Last advise - Slow down. Speed kills.
 
I know that this is not the pic thread but I would love to see some of your rigs strapped to the trailer. I will be towing my XJ in a couple of weeks and would like to see what a properly secured rig looks like.
 
I use three chains and four binders. I run one chain across the top of my front bumper and behind each side and then binder both ends. I use one chain to each side to the "T" hook hole in the frame. My rig is very flexy and it tows much better if it the suspension is compressed some. I make sure it has tension front to back to prevent any slop from occurring during transport. Been towing this way better than five years, no problems.
 
yager said:
Use axle straps - Till save your straps some wear/tear and give you perfect place to attach the hook end. They are thick and have a outer protective cover. They are less likely to get folded or pinched into a small crevice.



Last advise - Slow down. Speed kills.
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Where do you get these axle straps?

I am towing with the Tahoe, so I doubt speed will ever be a factor :D
 
BigClay said:
Where do you get these axle straps?
I am towing with the Tahoe, so I doubt speed will ever be a factor :D
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I got my straps at Tractor Supply for $10 a piece. I tow my K5 w/ my Tahoe. It did great from the coast to Mt. City. Only real big struggle was the moutain on 421 on the otherside of Boone. My K5 weight in at just over 5100 lbs, so you should be fine. Pulled my buddies broken XJ home from Ure once and didn't know it was there. But then again, I'm use to my fat pig of a K5 behind me!
 
I picked up my straps at Northern. They had they had the axle straps in store for $10 a piece, but only had 3 ratchet straps($25); I ordered everything online and picked up in store.

I have since found the same at Jegs...well they were on sale last week, still might be cheaper after shipping is added.
 
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