How do you tie down your rig on the trailer?

Google macs tiedowns they have a kit with straps and axle straps for around $100
 
upnover said:
straight to the axle and nothing above that.
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I would highly recommend straping to the axles if using straps and not chains. I used two straps per axle, In the front I use axle strap and loop them around the axle need the inner Cs, and run the ratchet strap to the far side of the trailer, So I end up with the straps crossed and pulling the rig inward to the middle of the trailer, I do the same in the rear.

I strapped to the frame on my TJ when I first started towing it, Caught a pot hole and the springs compressed and the rebound snapped the strap, Luckly I noticed the broken strap hanging.

BigClay said:
Where do you get these axle straps?
I am towing with the Tahoe, so I doubt speed will ever be a factor :D
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I get all mine at the industrial supply houses, Look it them up i am sure there is one in your area, and most people arnt aware they sale to the public.

straps are $15 - $18 a piece there and the axle straps are $8 a piece. At least at the one i use. The one in Morganton is great if your ever in the area.
 
i tow my 77 f150 to URE from Greensboro, about 50 miles. i use 2 chains and binders. in the rear i loop it over the axle, then under and around the diff and back over the other side. then bind it down tight pulling it rearward. in the front i run it over the frame rails nice and tight pulling the truck down about 3-4"
never had a problem like this. i know i could be a little safer but it works well with no play. i hauled an XJ saturday for a buddy and looped both axles, man i couldnt even tell it was there after towing my 77. i dont know what a 94 XJ weighs but it aint too much.
i tow with an 06 dodge 1500 4dr Hemi, does great!
 
77GreenMachine said:
i tow my 77 f150 to URE from Greensboro, about 50 miles. i use 2 chains and binders. in the rear i loop it over the axle, then under and around the diff and back over the other side. then bind it down tight pulling it rearward. in the front i run it over the frame rails nice and tight pulling the truck down about 3-4"
never had a problem like this. i know i could be a little safer but it works well with no play. i hauled an XJ saturday for a buddy and looped both axles, man i couldnt even tell it was there after towing my 77. i dont know what a 94 XJ weighs but it aint too much.
i tow with an 06 dodge 1500 4dr Hemi, does great!
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if DOT gets ya you could possibly be fined,per DOT it has to be 4 seperate tie downs used in a fashion that the strapped/chained unit cannot move forward/rearward or side to side..i deal with this everyday being a professional tower
 
I use chains to the axle in the rear, and chains w/ binders to the frame in the front. My old man uses chains the axle front and rear with the binders on the front. We currently use the lever style binders but will be upgrading to the ratchet ones soon, they are much nicer. While Im 99% sure straps would hold our junk, it makes me warm and fuzzy to use chain.

Duane
 
I use 4 straps, in basically a straight pattern to d rings i have welded on the trailer. I have never had any problems, this method has worked great for me.


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If one of the crossed straps loosens or breaks.

Explain how the remaining strap would:
Remain tight.
Keep the front down.
Keep the front from sliding towards the strap.
 
I actually disagree with the cross for a number of reasons, but what it all boils down to is personal preference and personal experience. There are many safe ways to go about it.
 
When I towed with a trailer, I used the same method as yager.
/ \
Now with my hauler it's not as much of an angle, I understand the left to right, and the right to left, but if both sides are pulling in opposite direction, I don't see it as much different. I have never sucked down the suspension, never seen a need for it, and mine is pretty tall.

What I have seen and don't much like is the single strap wrapped around the pinion. If you tighten it down good, you can still feel less tension on the non ratchet side. But, many do it, and have no issues.
I also agree that two is better than one. IF one fails, at least you do have a back up.
I have also seen on my own rig, that it's better to have more air in the tires than you use on the trail, helps keep the tires from allowing a chain or strap to loosen
 
few videos for ya.... (and no I'm not affiliated with Mac's in any way!)

Tie Down Basics:

Info on Mac's:


Superlift Jeep/Mac's fix-up:


Breaking Strength Test
 
Yager nailed it about strapping to the frame vs. the axles on vehicles like ours.

On mine, I cross the rears and go straight on the fronts to some u-bolts I welded to the axle tubes (that way I don't have to use axle straps).
I only cross the rears because of the location of the attachment points means I'd have the straps rubbing the tires if I didn't X them.

For the body, I used to run the suck-down winch in a good bit to control body roll, but that's very vehicle dependent.

Between the welded attachment points on the axles and leaving the rear straps pre-set to length (to keep consistent tongue weight), it take less than 5 minutes to load and strap the rig down.
 
I use a method I carried over from race cars, I use a strap made to go over the tires which is firmly cinched to the trailer. All four tires. Also use a HEAVY, I think it is 20,000 # breaking strength safety chain at the back tied to the trailer to help keep things relatively in place in case of a frontal impact. Jeep is in gear, parking brake on. I like the Axle tie downs, just don't like getting into the mud to put them on.
 
Like Ghost said, DOT requires you to have 4 seperate tiedowns, one for each corner. They dont say you hve to cross them, but it is recommended. The Chain binders that most of us use are no longer legal, just the ones that ratchet down are legal. We have all hauled our junk in ways that wernt legal, but think of how much the Dot guys are stopping us now that the budget is tight. Is it worth it to pay a $1000 fine for $50 worth of straps? NOT TO ME!! If I screw up I lose my CDL and then my job.
 
durnzuki said:
The Chain binders that most of us use are no longer legal, just the ones that ratchet down are legal.
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Got a source for this? Not that I dont believe you, but there is waaaaay too many trucks running the roads with lever action binders holding loads down still.

Duane
 
carthief007 said:
if DOT gets ya you could possibly be fined,per DOT it has to be 4 seperate tie downs used in a fashion that the strapped/chained unit cannot move forward/rearward or side to side..i deal with this everyday being a professional tower
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durnzuki said:
Like Ghost said, DOT requires you to have 4 seperate tiedowns, one for each corner. They dont say you hve to cross them, but it is recommended. The Chain binders that most of us use are no longer legal, just the ones that ratchet down are legal. We have all hauled our junk in ways that wernt legal, but think of how much the Dot guys are stopping us now that the budget is tight. Is it worth it to pay a $1000 fine for $50 worth of straps? NOT TO ME!! If I screw up I lose my CDL and then my job.
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ghost said:
If you look there will be either a round hole or an oval one in the unibody "frame rail" that the transport companies used to get it from the factory to the showroom. SOme of the import cars have little tabs that look like a tow point but they are actually just there to hold it on a trailer. I have an xj and the holes are fairly far back on the "frame rail' IIRC. If you ever get a chance look at the end of a car hauler chain. It has two or three different style "hooks" on it for this purpose. When we haul hummers and such for the DOD they require 2 chains and binders front and rear for transport. Now you know why it has the d-rings front and rear like it does. It isn't jsut for recovery. I use my front winch bumper to tie too. (If its strong enough to winch off of it should be fine to tie to is my thinking.) and my rear bumper has two d-rings and it ties into the unibody rail like a class 3 hitch just not as far back. If any of you ever get stopped by the DOT man and it is not properly tied down and he feels like being a biatch he can ticket you for it not being properly tied down. While I was typing this I thought I would find the regs. I was wrong. It's heavy equipment that requires the 4 tie downs. Autos require 2 heavy equipment requires 4. Here are the regs:
http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/safety-security/safety-initiatives/cargo/cs-manual-chap9.htm
http://www.fmcsa.dot.gov/safety-security/safety-initiatives/cargo/cs-manual-chap10.htm
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Guys please read his post and the links for hauling autos only 2 straps required...
 
SkyHiK5 said:
Guys please read his post and the links for hauling autos only 2 straps required...
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IMO thats open to interpretation. It reads "Use at least two tiedowns at both the front and rear of the cargo to prevent movement." I read it as use at least two tiedowns in the front and two in the rear.

Duane
 
CLRracer said:
IMO thats open to interpretation. It reads "Use at least two tiedowns at both the front and rear of the cargo to prevent movement." I read it as use at least two tiedowns in the front and two in the rear.
Duane
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I was confused at first, but the heavy equipment regulations clearly state 4 tie downs, and since they differentiate between heavy equipment and light vehicles, I tend to believe only two are needed for light vehicles.
 
CLRracer said:
IMO thats open to interpretation. It reads "Use at least two tiedowns at both the front and rear of the cargo to prevent movement." I read it as use at least two tiedowns in the front and two in the rear.
Duane
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If you look at professional car haulers they have gone to a strap that goes over the tire in some cases. So they are saying use 2 at the front or 2 at the rear or 2 total.
 
I have decided to go with four total, two to the front axle, and two to the rear axle. My biggest debate now is whether to suck down the suspension with a fifth or sixth strap.
 
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