I ain't no Ford guy

upnover

upnover

Grumpy, decrepit Old Man
Moderator
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Morganton NC
I was checking my tire PSI's and noticed front right hub was in lock position. Went to turn it to unlock and it just spins. So I am assuming I need a whole lock out hub? They look cheap, so also thinking this might be a common issue. Should I look for a used or bite the bullet and buy a new one?
 
I dont know what you are driving these days.

If its a later SD they are cheap and air actuated.
You'll be money ahead to buy a set of WARNS for...$250 ish.
 
z'actly what do you have? I have some odds and ends around here you might be able to pick thru



...ford guy!
 
Sorry
In my head I was still going off the info I posted in my Build thread.
1987 For F-150 300-6, T-18
TTB front axle
 
I just googled it & got plenty of options. Advance store listing one for 29.99, & Doreman @ 19.99. Sounds TOOOO Cheap, but some Good ones are listed to. Check em out!
 
If you get it apart and just need a piece or two to fix yours Ill probably have it.
 
OK, from what I have learned. 87-88 Ford F-150 and FSB have what they are calling a "top Hat" style lock out.
To remove it you take off the tire/wheel and pull it off. That parts easy.
What you CAN'T do, is find after market or parts for them!
I found two, needed one, thought best get them both. so....... I thought to keep it alive as long as I can, best to take it apart, clean it, and grease it. Two snap rings, and a Phillips head screw, and the bearing retainer, is kicking my ass! Seems to be made from carbon fiber or something of that sort. It has to come out, to get to the bearing to clean and grease it. it isn't full circle, has a small gap, and fits into the same groove as the snap ring
Here's a pic of the exploded view.
flangehublocks.jpg
 
If you have top hat hubs, you should throw all that shit in the trash and put regular hubs on it.
 
shawn said:
If you have top hat hubs, you should throw all that shit in the trash and put regular hubs on it.
Click to expand...

I wish it were that simple, but, from what I have read, you have to replace everything from the spindle out.
Just buying the regular hubs isn't an option, until you get everything else.
 
upnover said:
I wish it were that simple, but, from what I have read, you have to replace everything from the spindle out.
Just buying the regular hubs isn't an option, until you get everything else.
Click to expand...

Yes, that's what I'm saying. Replace everything from the spindle out.
 
shawn said:
Yes, that's what I'm saying. Replace everything from the spindle out.
Click to expand...

One day, maybe. bought one to replace, and a spare.
Not a trail rig, just a haul stuff, junk, mulch kinda truck.
But when these go, yeah that's what I will attempt to try and source and get.
 
Chip,
I think you are asking how to get that 3/4 snap ring (bearing retainer) out. If so, I have always just used a straight pic run it down the splines and under the snap ring. Pry it down a little, then pop it loose with a flat head screw driver. Once it starts to loosen, it should come right out.
 
Jody Treadway said:
Chip,
I think you are asking how to get that 3/4 snap ring (bearing retainer) out. If so, I have always just used a straight pic run it down the splines and under the snap ring. Pry it down a little, then pop it loose with a flat head screw driver. Once it starts to loosen, it should come right out.
Click to expand...

No, bearing retainer, see pic, only two snap rings got them out easy actually they are the spiral type rings. But the bearing retainer, doesn't wanna come out, is chipping, like I said, it's not metal. crappy design
 
So, what I have learned through all the reading, and trial and fail.

The biggest issue with these lock outs is the plastic parts, they work, but
the root of the problem seems to come from the crappy brake calipers. Seems they have a certain life span, then they lock up. When they start locking up, they create heat, which travels all the way out to the end of this top hat type lock out. it gets the plastic hot, it bubbles up(out) can't keep shape and releases it's integrity, and there is when you have the fail.Found a video on youtube, where the guy replaced one, for the same reason, which BTW, after watching the video, I looked at the one I have that was giving an issue, and yep, bubbled up.

So, as I was trying to do some maintenance on my replacement, as I noted above, the bearing retainer was kicking my ass. So I went to my go to guy for all things mechanical. Minton's automotive. He worked on trying to remove and came up with the same conclusion I had, it can't be taken out, without breaking it. So by taking out the selector screw, and the retaining spiral rings, you could push the axle shaft sleeve in just enough to put some grease on the bearing. once lubed, and put back together, it worked real smooth.

So in the end(of this mess) a full brake job will be happening. rotors, calipers, and the hydraulic brake lines/hose plus pads will be. Replace it all, so at least for a while, I can have some peace of mind that I won't(or at least I shouldn't) have to worry about it locking up, heating up and melting my hubs.
 
I would go find a donor truck and swap everything from the knuckles out.

I know I said that already, but...
 
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