In need of help

spykosshow

spykosshow

New Member
Joined
Oct 13, 2005
Location
Raleigh, NC
Hey y'all, got a real issue here. Just drove the 87 toyota pickup up the street and when I shifted into 2nd, the clutch gave out. The synchro's work, and you can shift the transmission when the car is off. A buddy of mine that's a mechanic suggested to bleed the the system because it's a hydraulic clutch. Tried that and it still doesn't get any fluid. The slave (??the thing on the bellhousing that moves when the clutch is depressed) moves still. We called one place and they said to replace the clutch cylinder? It feels like a hydraulic issue because you can't build up pressure with the clutch pedal, even after repeatedly pressing the pedal. Does this sound like a viable problem to y'all?
 
maybe a seal on the slave cylinder went bad. seems like a seal if it won't build any pressure.
I don't know if they have rebuild kits for them or if ya just gotta replace the whole unit...

Were you working on the clutch or it just happend???
 
Probably no help, but the clutch slave in my old NiceUn had to be bleed backwards from the way you bled the brakes... don't recall exactly what was different, just know that it was...

:popcorn:
 
i would think you would be able to find/see some fluid somewhere and i doubt the slave would still move if it was a hydraulic issue.
 
The only reason I feel it's a hydraulic issue is that it happened all of the sudden. No breaking noise, no nothing.

We replaced the clutch master cylinder, but that didn't do anything. That was leaking in the rear where it connect to the pedal. That didn't do anything though. Now we're going to go get a slave cylinder and replace that. It if isn't one thing its another I tell you.
 
Yes, it is hydrulic clutch. new slave and master are about $40 each.

slave is pass side of trans, you can see it thru the RF wheel well, if it's blown out, you'll see the wet. Master is on the firewall, next to brake booster, near drivers fender. look under dash ( you'll have to pull carpet/floor mat back), to see if the master has puked.
If one has gone out, the other isn't far behind ( in my experiance) do 'em both, bleed the whole shooting match one time and be done with it.

If you replace either part, REUSE the STOCK push rods, I've had many issues with the aftermarket parts being too long causing other clutch issues.
 
Thanks for moving the thread, I was in a rush and just didn't think of where I should have put it.
We're going to put on the new slave cylinder in the morning and hope that does the trick. Thanks for all the help, I'll post back after we do that.
Oh yea, the Jeep comment. My Jeep is in the garage, this is my Brother's yota. I know jeep's are better.:flipoff2:
 
Hey. We replaced the slave cylinder and bled it following the hayne's manual we have, but it still isn't working. It's almost like it's not putting enough pressure on the slave cylinder to move the clutchfork (?). Any suggestions?
 
How did you bleed the thing? You might have to bench bleed the slave cyl aas well as the master cyl. When I bled my new slave cyl, I put fluid in the reservior and used a vacuum bleeder. It just sucks the air right out of the system. Watch when you're bleeding it that you don't run out of fluid in the res or you'll have to start all over. This isn't an overly complicated system. There's only so many things it can be. Odds are you need to bleed it more.

In you're first post you said the slave cyl moved. Did it push the clutch fork? Generally if it's got air in the system it won't move the clutch fork. What did you do to the truck before all this happened? Were you working on the clutch system?
 
We've been opening the valve, depressing the peddle fast, then slowly letting it up while closing it. We had it to the point that the pedal would move the slave some and had pressure, but now it has little to no pressure after we bled it a couple more times. Where can we get one of these vacuum things? Or could we come borrow yours per chance?
 
If anyone is willing to stop by and see what you can do, PLEASE call me. 337 7044. I'm in north Raleigh. Beer is a form of payment!!


We rented a vacuum bleeder from autozone and it won't hold a vacuum nor does it suck air/fluid out of the line. We're going to go try another vacuum bleeder.
 
Have you checked the line/fittings for leaks? It shouldn't be that hard to bleed. And I agree with bench bleeding the slave/master first..it can save a few headaches. You never really said what happened to the clutch..just that it "gave out". Meaning, it won't disengage?
 
braxton357 said:
Have you checked the line/fittings for leaks? It shouldn't be that hard to bleed. And I agree with bench bleeding the slave/master first..it can save a few headaches. You never really said what happened to the clutch..just that it "gave out". Meaning, it won't disengage?
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Exactly, when the truck is off, you can shift fine. As soon as you turn on the truck, you can't even get it into any gear even when pushing in the clutch. What do y'all mean by bench bleeding it?
 
spykosshow said:
Exactly, when the truck is off, you can shift fine. As soon as you turn on the truck, you can't even get it into any gear even when pushing in the clutch. What do y'all mean by bench bleeding it?
Click to expand...
Bench bleeding is where you clamp the cyl (Slave or master) in a vise to hold it and you puor fluid into it and work it back and forth to get all the air out. Keep adding fluid untill you get no air out of it. Then put it on the vehicle and hook it up losing as little fluid as possible and bleed the entire system.

Also check your PM box
 
presure plate... I had that same problem put in a new pressure plate and presto it was fixed
 
We've been opening the valve, depressing the peddle fast, then slowly letting it up while closing it. We had it to the point that the pedal would move the slave some and had pressure, but now it has little to no pressure after we bled it a couple more times. Where can we get one of these vacuum things? Or could we come borrow yours per chance?
Click to expand...

Ok you aren't bleeding them right. First take some flexible tubing and connect loop it from the outlet of the clutch master cylinder into the resovoir and make sure its submerged. Then pump the pedal slowly and watch all the bubbles come out, then after the bubbles are gone hold then pedal down and reconnect the clutch line(you just bleed the master cylinder), then pump the pedal a few times(slowly) then hold the pedal down and open the bleeder. Do not let the pedal up while the bleeder is open, otherwise your just letting air back in. Repeat this step many times. It might take awhile if you let the clutch line drain all the fluid out. Pump a few times, hold it, open bleeder and close it then let the pedal up.

That is how you bleed out a hydraulic system, not your way

Also, somtimes you can ruin a new master cylinder by pumping it too fast when your trying to bleed, so don't go to fast and if there is any fluid at the front of the master where the push rod goes in then you need a new master.

Good Luck

Brendan
 
sha_ba_do_bang said:
Ok you aren't bleeding them right. First take some flexible tubing and connect loop it from the outlet of the clutch master cylinder into the resovoir and make sure its submerged. Then pump the pedal slowly and watch all the bubbles come out, then after the bubbles are gone hold then pedal down and reconnect the clutch line(you just bleed the master cylinder), then pump the pedal a few times(slowly) then hold the pedal down and open the bleeder. Do not let the pedal up while the bleeder is open, otherwise your just letting air back in. Repeat this step many times. It might take awhile if you let the clutch line drain all the fluid out. Pump a few times, hold it, open bleeder and close it then let the pedal up.
That is how you bleed out a hydraulic system, not your way
Also, somtimes you can ruin a new master cylinder by pumping it too fast when your trying to bleed, so don't go to fast and if there is any fluid at the front of the master where the push rod goes in then you need a new master.
Good Luck
Brendan
Click to expand...


Thanks for that how-to, I was just doing it how the haynes told me. I'll try that tomorrow.




And about the pressure plate response....how much did you have to pay and where did you get it done? I'd do the work on it myself if my jeep wasn't in my garage having transmission work done on that too.
 
Did it myself. If you have replaced your slave cylinder then you should be able to do the pressure plate. simple to do.
 
BTW I didnt bench bleed my clutch MC when I did mine and it still works. But thats probaly dumb luck
 
Uh, If you're doing a pressure plate, you might as well put in a new clutch while you're there. Futbol...Are you refering to a ford ranger? Ford put their slave cyl inside the bellhousing so that when it leaks it ruins the clutch. Toyota's are on the outside of the bellhousing so it's easier to replace after they finally wear out. You don't have to pull the tranny the yota to do a slave cyl, but you do to replace a pressure plate.
 
Rattlecan thats news to me I thought they would all be inside the bellhousing. I'm mistaken then but nevertheless easy to do
 
Yea, it is easy to do, we just don't have the time nor the space to do it. Where can y'all recommend to get this done as quickly and as cheaply as possible?
 
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