What is the easiest, way to move the rear axle back approx. 4-5 inches in a K-5 rear leaf spring. Here's the deal, I've done a body swap from an old rusty K-5 to a newer 91 S-10 4 door blazer. So heres my delima i need to move the rear axle back in order to get it centered up in the rear wheel wells. I can't move the body forward because it's already almost up against the motor. I have 52/53 inch stock rear springs, unfortunatley i have already welded in my shakle flip before the new body went on the frame. I don't want to link the rear yet, I prefer to keep it leaf sprung. Thanks
Info on moving the rear axle
- Thread starter T-bone71
- Start date
336wheeler
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2006
- Location
- Boone
Without getting longer springs, and keeping your existing spring hanger and shackle hanger location, I would have to say call up Alcan and get a 52" spring made with an offset center pin suiting your needs. Or grind your shackle flip bracket back off and put some 63s on the rear... 63-52 = 11. 11/2 = 5.5. That would be about a half an inch longer that what you're looking at. Someone correct me if I'm wrong... I've never had any experience with the 63 inchers and do not know if they have any offset in the center pin.
JBsTrooper
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 10, 2006
- Location
- Holly Springs, NC
could i see some pics of your rig? interested in what it looks like. was the body swap difficult? far as help...do what the guy above said, if the pins are centered on the 63" springs.
thewagonmasternc
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 10, 2006
- Location
- Granite Falls,NC
Id like to see some pics as well,Im going to help a friend of mine do the same type of swap,just with a 2 door S-10 blazer body,on a K-5 frame
+ 2 inches
If you use the rear S-10 springs on a K-5 frame, you should be able to turn them around backwards and this moves the centering pin (ie axle) back 2 inches....done it, got the T-shirt
Just get out your tape measure first and check it out on your springs.
Or you can re-drill the pin hole in your leafs for a couple inches or (not recommended) use offset hole in u-bolt plates
Seen that done.
Or buy some custom springs if you want......Sawsall will Correct all of the above and is the most easiest method..NO tape measure
Needed
If you use the rear S-10 springs on a K-5 frame, you should be able to turn them around backwards and this moves the centering pin (ie axle) back 2 inches....done it, got the T-shirt
Just get out your tape measure first and check it out on your springs.
Or you can re-drill the pin hole in your leafs for a couple inches or (not recommended) use offset hole in u-bolt plates
Seen that done.
Or buy some custom springs if you want......Sawsall will Correct all of the above and is the most easiest method..NO tape measure
Needed
spraypaintman
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro
I have some springs off of an 80 ford that might work for you. They are about 53" center to center eye. The centering pin is off center by about 4 inches or so. I'll measure them for you later today.
http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26874
http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26874
drkelly
Dipstick who put two vehicles on jack stands
- Joined
- Mar 21, 2005
- Location
- Oak Ridge/Stokesdale, NC
63" Chevy springs actually measure 64". The center pin is not offset.
I haven't finished mounting the body yet. The biggest thing is in order to get thew body sitting correct i have had to cut the floor to recess the frame at the back seat. Otherwise i would have had almost a 4 inch body lift equivelent. When i get my body mounts made i'll post some pics. I have documented the whole build so far. The other thing is using a V-8 instead of the V-6 moves the body back approx 4 inches which is where the main issue is. Thanksfor the info thats a big help.
HOOPTYWGN
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2005
- Location
- Greensboro
On my '73 K5 - I took the (talking rear springs) orig. front bracket and moved it to where the front holes in the bracket lined up with the orig. rear mount holes in the frame.
Fab'ed a piece on the frame to drill the orig. back (3) holes in the stock bracket, using it as a template.
On the rear spring bracket, do same as ubove - move to where the orig. front (2) holes in bracket lined up with orig. back (2) and then drill new ones in frame to match orig. bracket.
All the above requires, of course, grinding all the orig. rivets but a 3/8" or 7/16" Grade 8 bolt fits right back in the holes.
The part fab'ed to attatch the back (3) bolts of the orig. front spring bracket was a piece of 3/16" plate to box the frame (and in the arch above the axle) and a piece of angle steel with the horiz. leg cut to the right width for all to weld together on the frame.
Don't think I have any pictures up close when I did it but it moved the axle back about 4 1/2" to 6 1/2". Which with a short wheel base blazer, made a world of diff. in the uphill climbs, the ride, and overall performance offroad & onroad.
I did not have nor make any shackle flip for the rear springs ( I won't get into why I didn't) So all the stock brackets get reused.
Also it didn't take but an afternoon and except for the Gr 8 bolts, was almost freeeeeee!
One side note! If you do this and you have degree shims in your springs, you need to either remove them or turn them around.
After it was finished, the pinion on the axle rotated down (because the axle attached to another spot along the arc of the spring) so I removed the degree shims and welded a plate to the perch to correct it. I had an 8" SkyJacker Soft ride lift on it which makes for a bigger offset from the center pin thru the spring to the actual spring perch on the axle.
IIRC, I want to say it was around 112 - 115" wheelbase when done and the stock '73Blazer with the 8" SkyJerk springs is around 107 - 108" wb.
Simple - Cheeeeeeep - Very Functional.
P.M. me if you have any questions.
Goof Luck - you wont' be disapointed.
Byron
Fab'ed a piece on the frame to drill the orig. back (3) holes in the stock bracket, using it as a template.
On the rear spring bracket, do same as ubove - move to where the orig. front (2) holes in bracket lined up with orig. back (2) and then drill new ones in frame to match orig. bracket.
All the above requires, of course, grinding all the orig. rivets but a 3/8" or 7/16" Grade 8 bolt fits right back in the holes.
The part fab'ed to attatch the back (3) bolts of the orig. front spring bracket was a piece of 3/16" plate to box the frame (and in the arch above the axle) and a piece of angle steel with the horiz. leg cut to the right width for all to weld together on the frame.
Don't think I have any pictures up close when I did it but it moved the axle back about 4 1/2" to 6 1/2". Which with a short wheel base blazer, made a world of diff. in the uphill climbs, the ride, and overall performance offroad & onroad.
I did not have nor make any shackle flip for the rear springs ( I won't get into why I didn't) So all the stock brackets get reused.
Also it didn't take but an afternoon and except for the Gr 8 bolts, was almost freeeeeee!
One side note! If you do this and you have degree shims in your springs, you need to either remove them or turn them around.
After it was finished, the pinion on the axle rotated down (because the axle attached to another spot along the arc of the spring) so I removed the degree shims and welded a plate to the perch to correct it. I had an 8" SkyJacker Soft ride lift on it which makes for a bigger offset from the center pin thru the spring to the actual spring perch on the axle.
IIRC, I want to say it was around 112 - 115" wheelbase when done and the stock '73Blazer with the 8" SkyJerk springs is around 107 - 108" wb.
Simple - Cheeeeeeep - Very Functional.
P.M. me if you have any questions.
Goof Luck - you wont' be disapointed.
Byron