Jack Stands

Down&Dirty

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 26, 2005
Location
Greenville SC
Like most of you, I have been battleing for some time with jackstands that a poorly made in china, a little to short, and that don't have enough adjustment for getting everything level. A recent axle swap project drove me to build some new jackstands to replace my HF 6 ton units as my primary stands. I wanted something that would be tall enough for rock crawler duty. That had a fine adjustment for leveling items when I am building a frame section or working on a cage. But mostly I wanted to build something rather than buy it.

I started out at agri supply and bought 4 2 inch reciever hitch centers that were 8 inches long, 4 hitch pins, 4 1 1/8 nuts, and 4 1 1/8 bolts that were 3-4 inches long. I then dug into my drop pile of 2x2 box steel and got 20 feet of steel out to make the rest of the jack. I also grabbed 4 old leaf spring shackles to make buckets to hold the item being jacked.

For a single jack I cut 4 legs, 40 degrees on one side and 50 degrees on the other. Each one 14 inches long tip to tip. I also cut a piece square on both ends that was 24 inches long to make the jack body. 4 legs were welded with the 50 degree side on the 2 inch receiver. This gives you a base that has approximatly a 19 inch span for stability. I tacked on the first 3 legs and then stood the jack up and used the 4th leg to get everything level and stable. With all 4 legs tacked in place I welded them in solid.

With the body, I measured 3 inches up from the body and then marked every 2 inches until I reached the 11 inch mark. This gives you a rough adjustment of 2 inches, which a 3-4 inch bolt will adjust through fully to allow any height. I marked the center and drill holes all the way through the body. These were then opened up to allow a hitch pin to pass through. I then assembled the rough components and stood it up. It started to look like something.

With the rough adjustment and base built I began to add in the fine adjustment. I threaded the bolt and nut together about 3-4 turns. Then I tacked the nut into the top of the body holding the bolt level and square. With the tacks in place I removed the bolt and welded the nut in solid. While this cooled I bent the hangers. I bent the ends of the hangers to give me a 2 inch base to hold a frame. The ends were bent to around 30 degrees using a bender, but a vise and hammer would work.

Now that the nut had cooled, I threaded the bolt back into the nut. I placed the newely bent bucket on top of the nut, centered it, and tacked it in place. Then I moved it to where it was easy to weld and burned it in. Once this cooled I gave everything a quick acid bath and then a couple coats of paint.
Finally I have the jackstands that I needed.

These end up with a 24 inch collapsed height and a 32-33 inch extended height.

The real pictures are coming. I forgot to take some while I built the first set, but the second pair is in the works.
 

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very interesting project! I think it would add quite a bit of strength to tie the 4 legs together, even if it's just with a little piece of flat, or rod, etc...
 
I have a set of two jack stands that were made with 3" x1/4 round tube very stout I wish I had 4 of them they extend to about 24" they do have a plate on the bottom
 
I thought about plating the bottom, but I know I would then get stuck on some uneven ground and they wouldn't sit right. I am thinking that I might go back and gusset the legs at the top, but I want to leave the bottom open so that they work well on uneven surfaces. I am also working on some out of some left over DOM that will have 3 legs so that they work even better on uneven surfaces. Right now I have a fairly level garage, but that ends in january so I am trying to think ahead.
 
Yo,
For safety, you need to tie the legs together. Midpoint would be OK and still leave you with open legs for uneven surfaces. Look at commercial designs and you will see the safety features they have incorporated. You may want to purchase some heavy duty types from HF or NT and throw away the center adjuster. Replace with a large lag screw and nut welded to top of stand. The threads will allow the fine adjustments you need and the stand will have the safety features. The end of the lag can be turned down to accept all types of rests from a flat plate to "V" shape for rounds.

Best of luck with the stands.
:beer:
 
I am going to gusset the legs. I have several sets of the "heavy duty" HF and Northern jack stands. I can say that these without gussets are much stronger. I have had several of the 6-ton HF units fail under load. Luckily never with me or anyone else under the load. I think there is something wrong with a 6-ton label on these sheet metal stands. I don't trust any jack stands, but these are by far some of the stoutest ones I have used outside of a commercial fabrication facility. Unfortunatly I am out of town for the rest of the week, but the gussets will be added to the drawing and the stands when I get back.
 
Got really low on tieing them together. That way if they start to sink into the ground they will only go so far. I've had more than one fall off because of that.
 
looks good man.... very good.
 
Cool build! Looks really good!:beer:
 
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