Lean-to construction

ghost

ghost

Well-Known Member
Joined
May 25, 2006
Location
Hartsville/Camden,SC
Looking to add an 8’ lean-to on the back side of the shop. I salvaged some 8’ long tin from the MIL’s shed we had to remove a few years ago. I’m also going to build a free standing on to store the mower and tiller. Do the headers need to be 2x8 with 2x6 rafters?

IMG_7761.jpeg


Plan is to attach a board at the top and come out 7’ - 8’ and sink 2 post. Header across them with rafters and then 1x4 or 1x6 to attach the ten to.
 
Following along. I'm building a 23' lean to off of my barn. Will be 3-1/2" decking for the roof, and 4x6s for the posts. All repurposed.
 
Depending on the support the header at the building does not need to be larger than the rafters. The header size at the opposing side will depend on your expected roof loading and your support post spacing. How far apart will the parts be and what will your roof be comprised of?
 
ramjo said:
By the code tables it's probably right at the limit for double 2x8s but it should be fine.



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I was put a single 2x8 into the current wood above the block.

OnlyOneDR said:
Depending on the support the header at the building does not need to be larger than the rafters. The header size at the opposing side will depend on your expected roof loading and your support post spacing. How far apart will the parts be and what will your roof be comprised of?
Click to expand...
Ok so I could use 2x6 on the building side would it need to be doubled? The open ended side will be 16' So I'll likely do 3 8' post. Should the rafters be 16" on center like studs or can I go out to 24" with it being tin and purloins? Thanks for the help here guys!
 
don't do what i did then.....hope it doens't blow away or collapse (will it?)

-30 ft long, 10 ft wide, supported on both sides by treated 4x4 ( 8 total 4x4)

-10 ft span 2x6 headers for the 30 ft run (3 total each side)

10 ft span 2x4 for the 10 ft span, 20 in on center (19 2x4s)

1x4 strips to attach generic 10 ft long tin roofing to (screwed)
 
I built something similar attached to my shop.

6x6s for the posts(6ea), span of 16'. Headers were lvl beams left over from my kitchen remodel. 2x8 joists and then tied the metal tin roof into the existing roof on the shop. Put it up by myself in a few weekends. lowest point is about 10'
 
You probably won't be able to get full 16' length roof if that's the current width of the block building. You will be getting up into the overhang. I would also plan on setting the post less than 8' from the wall so that you will have at least some overhang. A 1:12 pitch will be about an 7.5" difference in height from bottom of 2x6 ledger to top of your 8" beam. Thats pretty flat,....a 2:12 will be about 15" drop, which will cut into your headroom pretty good on the beam side. 2x6 rafter at 24" o.c. will be fine. I would do 6x6 post notched just because I hate a 4x4 and it gives something good for beam to sit on.

and here's some stamped engineered plans in case anybody asks


ghosthouse.jpeg
 
ramjo said:
You probably won't be able to get full 16' length roof if that's the current width of the block building. You will be getting up into the overhang. I would also plan on setting the post less than 8' from the wall so that you will have at least some overhang. A 1:12 pitch will be about an 7.5" difference in height from bottom of 2x6 ledger to top of your 8" beam. Thats pretty flat,....a 2:12 will be about 15" drop, which will cut into your headroom pretty good on the beam side. 2x6 rafter at 24" o.c. will be fine. I would do 6x6 post notched just because I hate a 4x4 and it gives something good for beam to sit on.

and here's some stamped engineered plans in case anybody asks


View attachment 431579
Click to expand...
1736211681112.jpeg
 
ramjo said:
You probably won't be able to get full 16' length roof if that's the current width of the block building. You will be getting up into the overhang. I would also plan on setting the post less than 8' from the wall so that you will have at least some overhang. A 1:12 pitch will be about an 7.5" difference in height from bottom of 2x6 ledger to top of your 8" beam. Thats pretty flat,....a 2:12 will be about 15" drop, which will cut into your headroom pretty good on the beam side. 2x6 rafter at 24" o.c. will be fine. I would do 6x6 post notched just because I hate a 4x4 and it gives something good for beam to sit on.

and here's some stamped engineered plans in case anybody asks


View attachment 431579
Click to expand...
This is awesome. This is exactly what I needed. Cannot thank you enough. Yes the main block building is 16' and that is what I was basing it off of. I need to measure where the top of the 2x6 would sit. I'm thinking the wall of block is 7" 6" approximately. So the far beam at 6' would mean I'd only have 10" of drop. I need to replace that roof but that is another project for another day.
 
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