My front 60 is a Chevy passenger drop king pin axle. It will be on leaf springs so full truss cant be used. 5:38 gears and Grizzly is my plan. I already have chromoly outers and plan to use Yukon Super joints or equivalent. I'll use external drive flanges on the hubs that I have. I think I'll be using the TMR double ended steering ram mount. Axle has to be gone completely through. Will be rebuilding the king pins also. What specific parts and why do you recommend for this build? Jeepster will be on 40's FYI
EDIT: add in the best disk brake kit also
The Lugnut4x4 half ton brake kit is terrific. I'd definitely suggest it.
For gears, aside from OG Spicer stuff, they're essentially all the same quality. Most are all made in the same place, just to slightly differing QC standards. Motive gears set up well. See if ECGS has Spicers available.
For kingpin kits, Yukon will be fine. Same with master rebuilt kits.
Or just bring it to me and I'll handle all the decisions for you. For a nominal fee
I'm planning to do a brake upgrade to get bigger brakes. Idk how much better it would be than lugnut. But, larger rotor and more pistons usually equals better. There is one more kit that will work with 16" wheels. The one i linked takes 17's. They are expensive though.
I like the 2500HD brake swap myself because I'm a GM guy, BUT you have to use Ford parts from the knuckles out. Needs 5 bolt spindles for the brackets. In my case, it worked out on my '99 Silverado because I was using a 78/79 Ford 60. It'd just be more parts you'd have to buy...so not likely worth it.
The Dodge setup uses a GM knuckle and is a larger rotor and piston with a minimum wheel size of 17" which would most likely be the rim size for those 40s, if I had to guess. I like both kids because now you have a slide on rotor and that's a really nice thing.
Although, if it already has brakes on it, you could just get new parts for that setup and rock the 1 ton GM stuff. I definitely don't have problems slowing the 40s on my CUCV. Match the booster and master size to whatever you're going to use and it'll all work!
@R Q I have a ⅞ allen wrench you can borrow if you need it. I usually slide a floor jack handle over it and pull until the kingpins stop turning. Torque specs be damned!
I think @Jody Treadway prety much covered everything else. Holler at ECGS and tell them you're an NC4x4 guy and they'll hook you up. Hell, you'll probably see your parts the next day. They're on top of it!
The reason I like the Lugnut4x4 kit is you can use the OEM booster and master usually as the caliper bore is much smaller
I've used it in 4-5 1 ton swaps now with great results
The reason I like the Lugnut4x4 kit is you can use the OEM booster and master usually as the caliper bore is much smaller
I've used it in 4-5 1 ton swaps now with great results
I'm here for that. I HATE bleeding brakes if it isn't absolutely necessary. Mostly because I'm always working by myself, but also because I hate brake fluid.
This thread has put the idea of getting the Torq bracket for my CUCV though. Can never have too much braking power...but I'll fix the rear brakes, ditch the load proportioning valve, and bleed the steering up at the hydroboost and reassess the situation.
What Jody said on the brake kit and spicer gear. ECGS has literally everything needed to rebuild that axle at same price as auto parts but with better materials, usually timkin or koyo. Use the spindle bushings instead of bearings. The ECGS brand axle joints are super joints but cheaper. Or Branik 4340 joint is same price as the ECGS joint. Ive said it before and ill say it again... lockers are rear application only imo. Go full spool in the front and put yukon hardcore hubs on if necessary. Front lockers prematurely break shafts due to the loading and unloading, then when the shaft breaks, it also breaks the locker 9 of 10 times. Then you have two problems to deal with instead of one.
