Let's talk about Automotive Lifts

untchabl

untchabl

I like rocks
Joined
Mar 30, 2009
Location
Bear Creek, NC 27207
Getting ready to build a shop at the house and looking for some info on lifts. Wondering what brands are good, things to look for when deciding on/buying one, what size would work best for me, etc.

Looking at a 2-post since space will be important with the size shop I'll have. Would like it to be able to safely lift a fullsize diesel truck (so I can service my dad and brother's trucks). Would like all the controls to run over the top vs. on the floor.

Also, how hard are they to install? Can 3-4 guys get one up and installed? How thick does the concrete need to be poured for the lift? Should be having the concrete poured in a few weeks.

Thanks guys.
 
auto lifts

hey man, 2 post lift is def. the way to go. on a fullsize vehicle, i think you would be overworking anything under a 10k lb. lift (by fullsize, i mean a 3/4 or 1 ton truck like you spoke of). as far as the hydro hoses, cables, and cords go, def. get them on the floor. if you have a vehicle with a susp. lift, big tires, roof rack or whatever, its gonna hit the stop bar at the top before it is high enough for you to comfortably get under the vehicle. no sense in having a lift if your bending at the waist all the time just to get to anything under the vehicle.
someone correct me if im wrong, but i think a 6" thickness of concrete is required for the placement of the posts. you could always just have the spots where the legs are going to be poured thicker, i would think.
im sure there are many other opinions out there, and sorry i didnt hit on any name brands or anything, just speaking from what ive encountered before.
HTH and good luck with the shop
jason
 
go to the rotary lift website, it'll tell all the concrete specs.(6"sounds right) i set mine up with two other people in about 3 hrs. (2post assymetrical Rotary) Mines a older 9000lb model but the pump is the same as a 10000lb, the arms are a little different. it handles CC Duramaxs and F250s fine. Only problem i've noticed is a service truck loaded with tools. I remove some of the large items from the rear before i pick it up. And the ladder rack on said truck hits the stop bar too so i wind up bent over a little, but it still makes everything easier, from tire rotation to oil changes to anything under a vehicle.
 
I've had more issues with the hoses, cables, etc running across the floor than over the top. When they are on the floor, it's always been a pain to pull a transmission out, seems the transmission jack is always needing to be where the cover plate for the hoses/cables is.

I'm 6'4" so there won't be too many lifts that I can stand under comfortably anyway. The fullsize 3/4 and 1 tons we have won't be needing alot of work, just basic maintenance stuff so if I can't raise them all the way up, then thats not really a big issue. I'll be able to lift my XJ's and regular cars and suv's up so thats all I need.

Thanks for the info so far, keep it coming.
 
Not sure on thickenss, but make sure to put lots of rebar and/or steel mesh in the concrete so that it is all tied together.
 
Buddy of mine has a 10k asymmetrical 2-post Rotary. Everything is overhead. His *might* be extra-tall (they have an extended height option). It'll lift a FS pickup high enough to have clear headroom at the frame, even with a big pile of interior parts laying on the roof of the cab.
 
Since we're on the subject, what are the advantages/disadvantages of the asymetrical compared to the symetrical 2 post lifts? Looking at the two side by side, I can't see a real difference except the posts are rotated on one. What's the theory?
 
We have 3 lifts here in the shop. Two 9,000# 2 post lifts and a 12,000# 4 post lift. All setting on 6" of concrete. The 2 post lifts will lift the 3/4 and ton trucks around the farm here but the 4 post lift makes me feel a lot safer working under those weights. Not having the arms of a 2 post lift in the way makes working with the 4 post lift A LOT better also.

<><Fish
 
i have worked with a few brand over the years. but hands down rotory lifts for me.

of all the lift i have used when i get my own man cave at home i will get http://www.rotarylift.com/templateProduct.aspx?id=732

and this is my fav work hourse in the 12k version. http://www.rotarylift.com/templateProduct.aspx?id=734 i use the hummer specific lift just not set wide for hummer specific use. guys screwed up on the install. but i live it vary heavy duty and pickes up f350 crew cab long beds with heavy motors and loads of tools just fine.

if i had to buy just 1 then give me the 12k bigger lift. i can do honda civics to f350 crew cabs.
 
one word MOHAWK, they are pricey but they dont get any better.

I have many rotary from 7k to 12k and they are nice but constant cable adjustments can be a pain.

a good Mohawk has no cables and is warrantied for life. I use the heck out of my dp-15, and it will lift anything from a miata to a ambulance and is self leveling. getting a used lift is important unless you are made of money. a new Rotary can cost 2500-4500 depending and the same lift used will go for 900-2200 used. my Mohawk is a $15-17k lift but i snagged mine for $4k installed.
 
Well, I cant afford a $3-4k lift. Looking for a decent 9k lb or so in the $1000-1800 range. Used or new doesn't matter.

Thanks for all the info so far. Anybody have any experience with some cheaper lifts?
 
I'm thinking of pulling the trigger and getting one as well. I just have 4" of fiber filled concrete is there anything I can do to help support it?
 
all the problems with china and cheep junk these days :rolleyes:

i think i will pass on working under a cheep lift . :huggy:
 
I have 4" concrete and no problems with my 10k lift. I bought it on ebay and spent an extra $100 or 2 to get the long ram. I am 6'2" and it can go up a few inches above my head. Well worth the extra money to not bump my head all the time since most go up to 6' exactly.

BTW since you are lifting from the frame overhead cables shouldn't be a problem on vehicles with a lift kit installed.
 
I've been selling automotive lifts and anything else shop equipment related for 11 years now. Brands are not all that important anymore that is other than Bend Pak run far run fast. You can get a good imported lift from China and Korea but they will be imported from a reputable company. Challenger imports their Quality line from Korea and they are good lifts. The main thing to look for on any lift is ETL/ALI Certification. It's like a UL rating for a lift. They are tested to well over their capacity then torn down and inspected to see how far the parts have moved from spec. if within a given range they are passed. This is an expensive testing process and many import lift manufacturers will not go to the expense. They will join ETL/ALI so they can put a member sticker on their product but that is not the same as one that says certified. All lifts are made of the same stuff to make a lift cheaper one part loses out. You have to see the $1800 lift and the $3500.00 dollar lift side by side to see the difference. If you take a 10K Challenger and set it beside a 10K Quality both certified and both from Challenger the American built is a tank compared to the Korean lift. But both are safe well made lifts. But you can see where the other grand went into the American built. Brands to look for are Challenger, Rotary and Mohawk as others said already. I will say this though Rotary has slipped on their game. And While still manufactured in US they are using a bunch of China steel much like Bend Pak does.

The 2 main types are Symmetric and Asymmetric.
Symmetric is designed to center the load between the post mainly for pickups and rear drive cars where the load more even from to rear.
Asymmetric is designed to move the load rear of the center of the post ideal for front drive pass cars as they are front heavy. Also makes getting in and out of the car easier.
But there is a third called versymmetric the arms are designed so that you can lift both ways depending on what you need.

As for concrete most 10K lifts call for 5-6 inches of 3K psi fiber reinforced concrete. And that must be a solid pad that extends at least 30" from the outside of the mounting pads and solid through the center to the other post. But always check before you buy. As this can vary from lift to lift.

Also don't look at any lift as a 10K or 9K lift. That is total capacity the weight needs to to be broke down a 10K is 2500 per arm. I've had customers bend rear arms with a 1/2 ton truck with a work box on it full of plumbing supplies.

Their are a lot of good deals to be had out there right now with the economy the way it is. Dealers and shops closing down selling 2 year old American built lifts cheap.
 
bjack said:
I'm thinking of pulling the trigger and getting one as well. I just have 4" of fiber filled concrete is there anything I can do to help support it?
Click to expand...
If I were in your situation, I would get some 3/8" or thicker plate that was about a foot wider than the feet of the lift and mount the lift through the plate to help distribute the weight and torque.
 
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