Lifting a jeep wrangler

Chevy PowerWagon

Active Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2008
Location
Red Bank, SC
I have a friend with a 98 wrangler. Coil all the way around. I have found and am about to aquire (4) 4.5 coils. Other than needing shocks, I was looking at what else might be needed. Not sure if I can flip the pitman arm, or if It would be fine. also, on the sway bar, would it be better to disconnect it, or is there a way to extend or purchase new chase arms for it. any other input would be appreciated.
 
Using 4.5" springs and trying to save money doesn't go together on a TJ. With that much lift, the stock control arms operate at unconventional angles and cause a variety of problems both on and offroad. I currently have 4.5" springs on my jeep, but when I put 3" springs on it, there were a lot of problems, and I ended up going to aftermarket long arms, which solved basically all of the problems.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Using 4.5" springs and trying to save money doesn't go together on a TJ. With that much lift, the stock control arms operate at unconventional angles and cause a variety of problems both on and offroad. I currently have 4.5" springs on my jeep, but when I put 3" springs on it, there were a lot of problems, and I ended up going to aftermarket long arms, which solved basically all of the problems.
Click to expand...
X2+track bar, t case drop, linkage correction... no cheap way to do it 4".
 
my tj has a 4 in rough country and i had to get track bar relocation brackets for the front and the back but i dont think you will need a pitman arm or control arms but you will have a little vibration at about 10 to 15 mph if you dont change you contol arms but i dont and its fine with me and the transfer case is a good idea too
 
Is there any way I could get most of these parts off of this site, or any other good sites to check? trying to do this as cheap as possible to clear 35's. Does anybody have Larry's number from the big dixie boggers?

On the T-case drop, would that mean new bushings, or crossmember, or could I pull it off with double cardans and new driveshafts? lso would there be any steering input issues I would need to correct?
 
The t case drop is just a spacer between your belly pan and frame. It helps your driveshaft angle so you dont need a cv rear driveshaft. Spring spacers and a body lift would be the cheap way to run 35"s
 
anything higher than 4 id say yes to steering issuse but the track bar relocation bracket in the front helps with steering the body lift would be the cheapest but looks the worst with stock suspension you will get no flex offroad
 
If you do the panhard drop you also have to do the pitman arm. You really need those two parts to be from the same manufacturer and for the same amount of lift because they are designed to work together to keep the drag link and panhard parallel. If you don't you will more than likely have some pretty bad bump steer issues.
 
I've got a drop pitman arm that I ordered brand new, but then didn't use since we are custom making everything. $30 if you want it.
 
ive got a brand new set of RE coils (3.5"), brand new re gen 2 disco's and a brand new re tcase drop. all stuff that made the move to nc with me from a jeep project i sold. all you need are some shocks. can upgrade to long or short arms when you have the funds. could run 35's easy with trimming. pm if interested.
 
Looking into a body lift, not wanting to cut up the fenders too much. I appreciate the parts offers guys, but after looking at the difference in parts from kit to kit, To save myself the headache since I will be installing it, I would prefer to get an entire kit and not piece one together. The jeep is going to be a trail/nice weather cruiser. Nothing to beat on. 4" is what we are going for, would 2" body with 2" spring spacers be sufficient for 35's?

Thanks Ben, I will look into the fenders and plan the best route with some painters tape.
 
Back
Top