Line Lock / E - Brake

burrellsjeep

burrellsjeep

Breaking Stuff...
Joined
Nov 19, 2008
Location
Morganton NC
Does any have any info on running this set up?

ai94.photobucket.com_albums_l116_ceoffroad_rhonds_camra214.jpg


I do know this

run a dodge master cylinder and get a trick bracket from CEO Offroad to hook to the stock parking brake lever/mechanism with another small master cylinder to act as a rear line lock/parking brake
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Does anyone know which Master Cylinder that is, and if there is any mods that have be made to it. For instance do I have to tap the ports on top. I do under stand the concept, just not on what is needed to do it.

Thanks for the Help
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
how do you know only a few minutes Matt? :flipoff2:
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Experience! hahaha

The setup you posted is quite nice, and probably works better than the one I have. But I would still be a little concerned with it leaking back by. You would never notice during normal braking, but a lot of hydraulic systems have very small emission past the piston. Hope that helps.
 
I just use a dash mounted 1/4 turn full port ball valve.
It a 1/4' NPT stainless steel valve with 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT bushings & brake line adapters.

I installed it in the line running from the rear M/C reservoir (Front brakes) to the proportioning valve,

Recenlty on some other board, I saw a thread about using a Subaru hill holder valve the same way. These came on many Subaru's.
 
buckshot500 said:
I just use a dash mounted 1/4 turn full port ball valve.
It a 1/4' NPT stainless steel valve with 1/4" NPT to 1/8" NPT bushings & brake line adapters.

I installed it in the line running from the rear M/C reservoir (Front brakes) to the proportioning valve,

Recenlty on some other board, I saw a thread about using a Subaru hill holder valve the same way. These came on many Subaru's.
Click to expand...

This way,

You just press the brakes and set the valve, Correct?
 
madssjeep said:
yea this thing let mine roll down a hill into a tree, it was a sad-sad day watching that train wreak:popcorn:
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Mine rolled across a parking lot into a Nissan Maxima, turned it into a Minima, and did $3k in damage.
 
I was in class and campus police showed up looking for me...

Anyway, back to topic, the piece this thread is about looks much better, but I would still be somewhat concerned. I think there's a reason all the OEM's use a mechanical parking brake.
 
Hyd brake locks were NEVER intended to act as a parking brake. They will leak down eventually and the continuous pressure will damage seals. Sorry to hear about the above incidents. Just be thankful nobody was hurt.
I use a hyd brake lock in a few trucks, but only when I am inside the vehicle.
There is a hyd brake lock with a built-in low press warning switch made by Mico-Brake. They are commonly used on wreckers.
You can also use a ball valve as buckshot mentioned, just make sure it is rated for at least 3000psi.
 
burrellsjeep said:
This way,
You just press the brakes and set the valve, Correct?
Click to expand...
Correct!

jeepinmatt said:
I have a Jamar hydraulic line lock, and it leaks down over time and will eventually just release. http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Jamar-Line-Lock-p-74.html
Sometimes its several days, sometimes its several minutes.
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Jamar locks suck, first of all you have to press the brake pedal to release as well as set them.

ncjeepers said:
Hyd brake locks were NEVER intended to act as a parking brake. They will leak down eventually and the continuous pressure will damage seals. Sorry to hear about the above incidents. Just be thankful nobody was hurt.
I use a hyd brake lock in a few trucks, but only when I am inside the vehicle.
There is a hyd brake lock with a built-in low press warning switch made by Mico-Brake. They are commonly used on wreckers.
You can also use a ball valve as buckshot mentioned, just make sure it is rated for at least 3000psi.
Click to expand...

All of this is true, except the part about it needing to be rated for 3000 psi.

Mine is rated for 600 psi & works just fine. I use it with a pretty good press on the brake pedal, & it never passed fluid while holding that. Tight enough to easily do a drag style burnout.

Those thinking of using a linelock for that purpose on a jeep should note that leaf spring wrap will grenade the slipyolk. (Ask me how I know)

Steps to prevent axle housing rotation must be taken, like a fifth link/ladder bar setup.

As mentioned, this is not to be used as a parking brake due to possible leakdown elsewhere in the brake hydraulic system.
 
Digging this back up... I have on my FJ 2 systems, neither of which are working out for me. I need advise.

I have a high angle driveline Atlas brake currently mounted up, but am not using because I could not get to work the way I wanted. The problem is with the lever. One of the things I tried was using an XJ lever, which worked with some modification, but I had to pull up on it with both hands for it to hold, and made it nearly impossible to release the button. I finally scrapped the lever.

Then I had a very nice rear brake line lock valve installed beside the seat which worked great for a long time... until now. I suppose the valve may have worn out? It doesnt work at all.

I need advice. I would prefer to have a mechanical emergency/parking brake, but can't seem to find anything online. I suppose the "easiest" thing to do would be to replace the valve and hope for the best...?
 
Find a better handbrake setup with more leverage. I had a high angle driveline brake attached to a stock Ford foot pedal. Worked sweet.
 
BShore, I seem to remember, on the Micro-line locks, the valve, or ball, was adjustable. If it wore, seemed like you could rotate the handle, or something, to tighten it.
 
Shawn, yeah. Finding a new lever is what I need to do. If anyone can recommend parts, that would be great. I had tried using an XJ lever without success. My engineering/fabrication tools and skills set are lacking, I suppose.

Rodney, I looked at the valve and it is not adjustable at all. I've seen the kind you are thinking of, and yes, I believe they are adjustable. That would have been way too easy. Ha. Thanks for the input though.

If anybody else has any ideas, let me know.
 
BShore said:
I have a high angle driveline Atlas brake currently mounted up, but am not using because I could not get to work the way I wanted. The problem is with the lever. One of the things I tried was using an XJ lever, which worked with some modification, but I had to pull up on it with both hands for it to hold, and made it nearly impossible to release the button. I finally scrapped the lever.

I need advice. I would prefer to have a mechanical emergency/parking brake, but can't seem to find anything online. I suppose the "easiest" thing to do would be to replace the valve and hope for the best...?
Click to expand...

So I installed a driveline brake on my rig a few months back. It was a mish-mash of components from TSM plus some stuff that I fabbed up. I realized before I started that the pressure necessary to actuate that lever on the mechanical caliper was going to be tremendous and I did not think that the umbrella handle in my Frontier would be able to pull that. So, using parts from the original parking brake system I fabbed a lever system under the truck that adds mechanical advantage. See the picture below. The cable from the handle under the dash pulls on the bottom cable clip on the left, and the right side has the threaded clevis that attaches to the cable for my mechanical brake. It gives my umbrella handle additional leverage by making it so it pulls farther than the cable back at the disc moves. Around a 3:2 leverage ratio. It works great in my rig.

ai233.photobucket.com_albums_ee179_trustonlyme_Frontier_20Project_0DSC04109.jpg
 
OnlyOneDR, thank you very much for the input and pic. That set up looks great, and that is a clever idea, I might just have to copy your idea. Thanks. If anyone else has any ideas, keep 'em coming.
 
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