Link bolts and 2” vs 2-5/8” width

jeepcj3a

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 13, 2006
Location
winston salem
I got a 7/8-3/4 heim, 2-5/8 misalignment spacer and longest bolt Barnes sold (4”) to test in the 2-5/8 width link brackets that were on axles I bought. I noticed the shank on the bolt is shorter than anticipated and looking for a good source for longer shank 5/8 bolts. Need shank of ~3.15 in order to make through both tabs.

Also, the axles came with all 2-5/8 mounting width brackets, and was wondering if any benefits of going to 2” width on chassis side, or better to go with 2-5/8 on chassis too.


IMG_0695.jpeg
 
If you can go 2-5/8 on the chassis side you'd keep all the hardware the same and you can get more angle out of the heims. That's what I'd do if I could.

Just get longer bolts and cut them to size.
 
There are minimum thread length requirements for marked bolts (although not minimum shank lengths). For <=6" total length that thread is at least 1-1/2", for >6" that thread is at least 1-3/4". If you need a tick more than 3" you are best to get a 5-1/2" bolt and put a washer on the outside of each end.

Bolt Depot - Minimum Thread Length for US Bolts

www.boltdepot.com www.boltdepot.com
 
It will be difficult to find bolts with the exact shank length you need, but the load from the suspension is primarily translated to the bracket by the friction generated from the clamping force between the nut, bolt head, and clamping of the rod end where they contact the bracket, not the shear load on the bolt. I'd run whatcha got without thinking twice.
 
jeepinmatt said:
It will be difficult to find bolts with the exact shank length you need, but the load from the suspension is primarily translated to the bracket by the friction generated from the clamping force between the nut, bolt head, and clamping of the rod end where they contact the bracket, not the shear load on the bolt. I'd run whatcha got without thinking twice.
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As much as I agree with you, experience has proven that wrong.

Over time, the bolt will move due to shock loads and the threaded side will start eating the brackets.
 
Bebop said:
As much as I agree with you, experience has proven that wrong.

Over time, the bolt will move due to shock loads and the threaded side will start eating the brackets.
Click to expand...
You actually wheel yours hard too ;) For most people, tight bolts will stay tight and do what they need to do.
 
I still advocate for getting the longer bolts with longer shanks, then cut the threaded end shorter. The shank has a larger nominal diameter so it is stronger in shear if for some reason the connection loosens or shifts.
 
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