link material

jdubb

jdubb

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 12, 2005
Location
Gastonia
What is a good size tubing for upper links? I know they don't have to be as big as the lowers but what's too small? Single triangulated design with 37s. got some of those 7/8 heims from ruffstuff so whatever the adapters OD is?
 
Most 7/8 tube adapters use a 1" I'd tube. If that's the case I'd use 1.375 .188 wall DOM. If you have trouble finding that, 1.5 .250 wall is pretty common.
 
ruff stuff also has the 1.5" bungs for the 7/8 hiems . when i ordered landons he told me if you dont specify you get the 1.5 " version
 
11 year bump o_O

Barnes three link tube package they sell has a 1.75" OD 0.125" wall. Am I being paranoid about wanting to get a larger tube? Upper link eye to eye is roughly 43" :smokin:
 
NickMaul said:
11 year bump o_O

Barnes three link tube package they sell has a 1.75" OD 0.125" wall. Am I being paranoid about wanting to get a larger tube? Upper link eye to eye is roughly 43" :smokin:
Click to expand...

That'll be fine. Just don't buy it from barnes unless you want to spend a shit ton. Race City will cut to length and ship for way cheaper.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
That'll be fine. Just don't buy it from barnes unless you want to spend a shit ton. Race City will cut to length and ship for way cheaper.
Click to expand...

I ordered the 3 link and 4 link kit a while ago so it’s already in the garage. I just figured I would double check before I burn it in.

I’ll reach out to Andy when I bend the lower links ;)


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NickMaul said:
11 year bump o_O

Barnes three link tube package they sell has a 1.75" OD 0.125" wall. Am I being paranoid about wanting to get a larger tube? Upper link eye to eye is roughly 43" :smokin:
Click to expand...

My buggy runs 1.75 / 0.125 uppers. I beat the shit out of it and bent my lowers (2.5 / 0.250) but the uppers are still straight as an arrow. I was super concerned at first but not anymore.
 
NCJeeplover said:
I've always wondered if 6061 would hold up for upper links. I have quite a bit of scrap at work from time to time and would love to run some 1.5" 6061 uppers for my 7/8 heims.
Click to expand...

For a short time, @Chris_Keziah ran 6061 uppers when he still had short arms in the rear of his TJ. We made them from scrap at work. They held up just fine and I believe they would still be doing well if he didn't change his mind every 6 months on his suspension design haha
 
NCJeeplover said:
I've always wondered if 6061 would hold up for upper links. I have quite a bit of scrap at work from time to time and would love to run some 1.5" 6061 uppers for my 7/8 heims.
Click to expand...

6061 would be fine for uppers, the Savvy TJ 4 link kit uses 6061 on the uppers. Biggest thing is keep the jam nuts tight, you can pull threads much easier with aluminum.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
6061 would be fine for uppers, the Savvy TJ 4 link kit uses 6061 on the uppers. Biggest thing is keep the jam nuts tight, you can pull threads much easier with aluminum.
Click to expand...

I have contemplated this for a while.... Increasing the length and diameter of the threads should help with pullout. (thats what she said) I have thought about a bung/joint that would thread on the outside of the aluminum vs the inside, or something similar to above, but it clamps around and bolts through the aluminum and the link is entirely threaded into the steel bung.

Here we go:
2": https://www.mcmaster.com/60645k77
1.5": McMaster-Carr to save money on the uppers
 
Last edited:
paradisePWoffrd said:

I have contemplated this for a while.... Increasing the length and diameter of the threads should help with pullout. (thats what she said) I have thought about a bung/joint that would thread on the outside of the aluminum vs the inside, or something similar to above, but it clamps around and bolts through the aluminum and the link is entirely threaded into the steel bung.

Here we go:
2": https://www.mcmaster.com/60645k77
1.5": McMaster-Carr to save money on the uppers
Click to expand...

You could also use a timesert or something similar so you have steel threads. Honestly though at that point you're really just looking for the bling factor or time=money means nothing anymore.
 
Chris_Keziah said:
You could also use a timesert or something similar so you have steel threads. Honestly though at that point you're really just looking for the bling factor or time=money means nothing anymore.
Click to expand...

I know racing is a whole different animal, but apparently it was a big enough issue that a number of racers have started sleeving alum with steel to keep the weld-in bung.

As said, the most cost effective way is to keep the jam nuts tight.
 
paradisePWoffrd said:

I have contemplated this for a while.... Increasing the length and diameter of the threads should help with pullout. (thats what she said) I have thought about a bung/joint that would thread on the outside of the aluminum vs the inside, or something similar to above, but it clamps around and bolts through the aluminum and the link is entirely threaded into the steel bung.

Here we go:
2": https://www.mcmaster.com/60645k77
1.5": McMaster-Carr to save money on the uppers
Click to expand...

Barnes offers some 4" long shank rod ends if you want to maximize the thread contact with your AL bar

Magnum Series Heims by Barnes4WD
 
I thought about drilling and tapping a jam nut for a grub screw or two to keep it from loosening. It should dig into the aluminum and hold pretty well.
 
NCJeeplover said:
I've always wondered if 6061 would hold up for upper links. I have quite a bit of scrap at work from time to time and would love to run some 1.5" 6061 uppers for my 7/8 heims.
Click to expand...

Beside being scrap drops I don’t think there is much to gain from Al uppers. Aluminum lowers, sure.

Don’t think there is much weight difference between a hollow steel tube and a solid bar of Aluminum. Then introduce the weaker threads.


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