link material
- Thread starter jdubb
- Start date
lbyota85
Let the chips fly!
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2006
- Location
- Taylorsville, NC
I just redid mine and used 2" .250 wall for the lowers and 1.75" .120 wall for upers all DOM. Seems to work just fine.
lbyota85
Let the chips fly!
- Joined
- Dec 11, 2006
- Location
- Taylorsville, NC
38.5x11 boggers, and I got the .250 from RIDES and the .120 from MUDPRO.
CTRaceWorx
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2007
- Location
- Charlotte
Most 7/8 tube adapters use a 1" I'd tube. If that's the case I'd use 1.375 .188 wall DOM. If you have trouble finding that, 1.5 .250 wall is pretty common.
BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.
BUCKEYE PERFORMANCE INC.
- Joined
- Dec 3, 2006
- Location
- swannanoa
the 7/8 tube adapters from ruffstuf is for 1.25 id tube. for an upper in your case 1.5 .120 will work fine. but no less than .250 for the lowers.
91oneton
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2005
- Location
- conover nc
ruff stuff also has the 1.5" bungs for the 7/8 hiems . when i ordered landons he told me if you dont specify you get the 1.5 " version
NickMaul
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2009
- Location
- Norfolk, VA
11 year bump 
Barnes three link tube package they sell has a 1.75" OD 0.125" wall. Am I being paranoid about wanting to get a larger tube? Upper link eye to eye is roughly 43"
Barnes three link tube package they sell has a 1.75" OD 0.125" wall. Am I being paranoid about wanting to get a larger tube? Upper link eye to eye is roughly 43"
- Joined
- Mar 20, 2005
- Location
- Hendersonville, NC
That's fine for an upper as it won't ever see impact force.
I'd also reach out to Andy at Ironman4x4 for an aluminum upper link. No welds, just threaded material.
I'd also reach out to Andy at Ironman4x4 for an aluminum upper link. No welds, just threaded material.
Chris_Keziah
Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Location
- Winston-Salem
11 year bump
Barnes three link tube package they sell has a 1.75" OD 0.125" wall. Am I being paranoid about wanting to get a larger tube? Upper link eye to eye is roughly 43"
That'll be fine. Just don't buy it from barnes unless you want to spend a shit ton. Race City will cut to length and ship for way cheaper.
NickMaul
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2009
- Location
- Norfolk, VA
I ordered the 3 link and 4 link kit a while ago so it’s already in the garage. I just figured I would double check before I burn it in.
I’ll reach out to Andy when I bend the lower links
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NCJeeplover
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2009
- Location
- Claremont, NC
I've always wondered if 6061 would hold up for upper links. I have quite a bit of scrap at work from time to time and would love to run some 1.5" 6061 uppers for my 7/8 heims.
11 year bump
Barnes three link tube package they sell has a 1.75" OD 0.125" wall. Am I being paranoid about wanting to get a larger tube? Upper link eye to eye is roughly 43"
My buggy runs 1.75 / 0.125 uppers. I beat the shit out of it and bent my lowers (2.5 / 0.250) but the uppers are still straight as an arrow. I was super concerned at first but not anymore.
adamk
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2010
- Location
- Burlington
For a short time, @Chris_Keziah ran 6061 uppers when he still had short arms in the rear of his TJ. We made them from scrap at work. They held up just fine and I believe they would still be doing well if he didn't change his mind every 6 months on his suspension design haha
Chris_Keziah
Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Location
- Winston-Salem
6061 would be fine for uppers, the Savvy TJ 4 link kit uses 6061 on the uppers. Biggest thing is keep the jam nuts tight, you can pull threads much easier with aluminum.
NCJeeplover
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2009
- Location
- Claremont, NC
I wonder if it'd be worth it to make some locking jam nuts? I'm thinking like a threaded slip collar made with hex stock.
TMR makes clamp bungs to solve this problem. I have a set on my trailing arms. They are cost prohibitive to outfit the rest of the vehicle IMO.
Round Pinch Bung Tube Adapters
Round Pinch Bung Tube Adapters
paradisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2005
- Location
- Newton, NC
I have contemplated this for a while.... Increasing the length and diameter of the threads should help with pullout. (thats what she said) I have thought about a bung/joint that would thread on the outside of the aluminum vs the inside, or something similar to above, but it clamps around and bolts through the aluminum and the link is entirely threaded into the steel bung.
Here we go:
2": https://www.mcmaster.com/60645k77
1.5": McMaster-Carr to save money on the uppers
Last edited:
Chris_Keziah
Joe Dirt @ Rev Limit Fab
- Joined
- Dec 1, 2010
- Location
- Winston-Salem
You could also use a timesert or something similar so you have steel threads. Honestly though at that point you're really just looking for the bling factor or time=money means nothing anymore.
paradisePWoffrd
Recovering Project Junkie
- Joined
- Nov 5, 2005
- Location
- Newton, NC
I know racing is a whole different animal, but apparently it was a big enough issue that a number of racers have started sleeving alum with steel to keep the weld-in bung.
As said, the most cost effective way is to keep the jam nuts tight.
Barnes offers some 4" long shank rod ends if you want to maximize the thread contact with your AL bar
Magnum Series Heims by Barnes4WD
NCJeeplover
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 25, 2009
- Location
- Claremont, NC
I thought about drilling and tapping a jam nut for a grub screw or two to keep it from loosening. It should dig into the aluminum and hold pretty well.
NickMaul
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 4, 2009
- Location
- Norfolk, VA
Beside being scrap drops I don’t think there is much to gain from Al uppers. Aluminum lowers, sure.
Don’t think there is much weight difference between a hollow steel tube and a solid bar of Aluminum. Then introduce the weaker threads.
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