LS ECU questions

Joe_U4

Joe_U4

Active Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2022
Location
Raleigh
Let me start by saying I'm a Ford guy so everything LS is new to me. I have a new to me buggy with a LQ9 6.0 that is using an OEM ECM and stand-alone harness. It's a mild build, stock bottom end, BTR cam, F body intake, drive by wire, & MAF. Not a fan of DBW and I know the is an issue with the MAF (MAF voltage too high code). Already swapped out the MAF and it's not the issue so it's the harness or ECU. I also prefer speed density over MAF strategies. I understand the reliabilities of the OEM ECU and they seem like a popular choice for LS swaps. I need to be able to tune and make adjustments myself. It has a TH400 trans so no TCM needed.
So that brings up the following options:

1) OEM ECU with HP Tuners

2) Holley Terminator

3) FiTech (I see mixed reviews)

What say you and your experiences?
 
A lot of guys refuse to tune with stock and hp tuners now. I’m assuming the epa has cracked down as they magically changed the hp tuner as well. Holley is nice and also can a lot easier provide a dash. But the harness it’s self is shittier than a eBay swap 100$ harness. Like a 2 year old loomed and taped it. I reworked a lot of mine. But I’d imagine just a can and speed density wouldn’t be much trouble to keep what you got. I run fitech in my jeep but it’s the carb conversion one. Never an issue and have done several cars with it. But not the Ls kit.
 
Just remember you need to add a separate intake air temperature sensor when you go SD so it doesn't freak out and do weird stuff with the timing tables.

Speed density will work just fine, I've just never seen it as a necessity unless you're running enough boost that it's above what the MAF can read and you get in to theoretical tuning.

FWIW, I like stock and HP Tuners. It's reliable and a bunch of folks know how to use it, but the ease of changing things and the whole dash display is pretty sweet with the other stuff.
 
Croatan_Kid said:
Just remember you need to add a separate intake air temperature sensor when you go SD so it doesn't freak out and do weird stuff with the timing tables.

Speed density will work just fine, I've just never seen it as a necessity unless you're running enough boost that it's above what the MAF can read and you get in to theoretical tuning.
Click to expand...
MAF is a pain to integrate in a short intake track and airflow reverb will absolutely ruin your life depending on the way the air flows in said intake track.
It's also more prone to getting wet and other fun stuff you encounter offroading.

Croatan_Kid said:
FWIW, I like stock and HP Tuners. It's reliable and a bunch of folks know how to use it, but the ease of changing things and the whole dash display is pretty sweet with the other stuff.
Click to expand...
You can also get a dash display with a more modern OEM ECU, just need to look into the Gen4 stuff. E38 or E67 will be supported by AEM, AIM, Haltech or other OBD2 dashes.
 
Don't need a digital display, I've already have analog gauges. I like the reliability of the stock ECU and leaning towards HP Tuners as it's the most cost-effective route.

I should only need one credit since I don't have a TCM correct?
I assume I can simply turn off DBW and change the TB?
I have read that the DBW does not have IAC?
 
Joe_U4 said:
Don't need a digital display, I've already have analog gauges. I like the reliability of the stock ECU and leaning towards HP Tuners as it's the most cost-effective route.

I should only need one credit since I don't have a TCM correct?
I assume I can simply turn off DBW and change the TB?
I have read that the DBW does not have IAC?
Click to expand...
I believe it’s 2 different ecu and harnesses.
 
Terminator is dead simple and only power and grounds need run. It also eliminates vat codes etc and the mass air flow sensor so it makes intake routing easier. You just need to get the right version std max etc based on whether it’s a cable or throttle by wire, what gen ls (2 diff crank sensors between 3rd and 4th) and what trans you’re running, auto vs manual.

Plus it’s 100% new wires and plugs and not some repinned 20 year old plastic plugs and an aging ecu
 
Joe_U4 said:
Don't need a digital display, I've already have analog gauges. I like the reliability of the stock ECU and leaning towards HP Tuners as it's the most cost-effective route.

I should only need one credit since I don't have a TCM correct?
I assume I can simply turn off DBW and change the TB?
I have read that the DBW does not have IAC?
Click to expand...
2 credits
Yes but no. You need to know how to parameter this properly. There isn't a "switch" in the tune.
Correct, IAC control is done directly with the throttle blade. That also means that not all DBW ECUs are able to control a DBC IAC, some are lacking the chip to do so.
 
I can't remember if 1 bar SD requires more credits or not. I don't think it does...it's essentially SD below 4000 RPM already anyway. Best I can remember, you disable/fail the MAF, add a separate IAT sensor (should be tan and black wires in the MAF plug that go to IAT), change low octane spark tables to the same as high octane spark tables, and then work on dialing in the VE tables with a wideband.

I know 2 and 3 bar require two more credits because they require a custom OS.

As said above, it's a bit more work to swap DBW to DBC or vice versa. I'm not a massive fan of DBW myself. If it's giving you a lot of trouble, I'd probably roll with it, unless you just absolutely want a DBC setup.
 
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