Makin a draglink question

you can get weld in bungs from poly performance, BTF, poison Spyder, and many others. To tap it you will need to get two taps and they aren't cheap but you can order them online from grainger. Either way you go you will need a left and a right thread. Then you can spin the drag link to adjust the length and fix your alignment. I have used the weld in setups and they are easy. I have also had andy drill and tap stuff for me with nothing more than a measurement.
 
I know Andy (zubz) stocks a lot of those inserts...

I'd guess Jon (StudNuts) may also stock them...

...and, as mentioned, Andy can have stuff drilled and tapped no problem...

just a note, I know he's leaving town tomorrow and won't be back til Monday...so if you call or PM, don't be surprised if you don't get an immediate response...

Greg
 
I have the threaded inserts here, 7/8's left, and right, 10.00 each plus the bus fee. For steering, we use 1.5x.250 wall tube. 910-326-2881, Bob.
 
Make sure you plug weld the bungs, too.
 
can you MIG weld the threaded ends in or do you have to tig?

anyone ever have problems with warping and messing up the threads?
 
I usually put a joint in them while welding to keep from having weld sparks screw up the threads or to keep them from warping...but I've mig'd them with a lot of heat and nothing in them and they work fine. Plug welds aren't a necessity but as Shawn said, it's a good idea. Make sure you get your dlink length right first though...
 
I have used weld in bungs(inserts) several times, never a problem. I do plug weld. and weld around. I think one ton TRE's are 7/8. Not sure if Andy has 7/8 or not, I know he usually stocks the 3/4 ones for a decent price, and a great looking bung.
 
Aight cool, got another question if I were to use heims instead of the chevy TRE's which ones should I use? All the high steer arms I've seen say you have to drill them out to 3/4 to run heims. When I go to Polyperformance's webisite all the heims have body size listed but don't show what size bolt they take? Which ones take the 3/4" bolts?
 
You would want to run the CrMo XM-10/12. You then will need to drill the arm to 3/4, I have a steel sleeve to insert into the drilled 3/4 hole, drop the heim and a 5/8 bolt through. And if a heim is used on a single shear you will need safety washers for the heims. I carry everything needed ;)

'Nuts


jrraw23 said:
Aight cool, got another question if I were to use heims instead of the chevy TRE's which ones should I use? All the high steer arms I've seen say you have to drill them out to 3/4 to run heims. When I go to Polyperformance's webisite all the heims have body size listed but don't show what size bolt they take? Which ones take the 3/4" bolts?
Click to expand...
 
Don't go too crazy with a spacer on a single-shear joint.. Doesn't matter much how big the bolt is, it's not a good idea.

Adding a piece to the high steer arm to make it double-shear would be a VERY good idea if you need to space the link..
 
Hi-JACK ALERT

Alright it has been a few years since I did my histeer set-up and in all honesty, I probably didnt research it enough, I just made it work :rolleyes:

Can someone explain a single versus double shear to me?

Im not even sure what I created:shaking:

I used a big rig TR, heims (dont recall what size) and good hardware.

thing is when I did all this vehicle was strictly trail only, in the last year or so it has seen occaisonal road use. mostly driving 15 miles or so to go deer hunting, at highway speeds..

I probably need to revisit this

any info would be :huggy:
 
Double shear is when there is a mounting surface on both sides of the heim. Single is when you mount it on only one side and use a washer or something on the other. The double shear is much better strength wise. It keeps the bolt from being used as a lever. The single shear basically puts all the force on one end of the bolt and will typically bend or snap the bolt off.
 
StudNuts said:
You would want to run the CrMo XM-10/12. You then will need to drill the arm to 3/4, I have a steel sleeve to insert into the drilled 3/4 hole, drop the heim and a 5/8 bolt through.
Click to expand...


.... or just buy a #12 joint, and not have to use a sleeve.
 
I run mine in single shear, but without a spacer and not on the street. I do use the safety washers so if the heim pops the link won't come completely loose. 1/4 should be plenty for the upper support unless you are really spacing it out. Then I would box everything as good as I could with 1/4. It is one of those things that you would rather overkill now then kill someone with later.
 
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