Mating 2.25" pipe onto 3.5" pipe at 10*

GubNi

GubNi

8 lug disc brakes?
Joined
Mar 20, 2005
Location
Jonesborough, TN
I am building a steel rack. I have lots of scrap and I'm tired of tripping over it. One of my goals is to use what I already have to build it. I have decided to make the uprights out of 3.5" OD 3/8" thick pipe 6'2" tall. There will be three of them so I can load 20' steel on it with minimal sag in the middle if it's flat bar. I decided to make shelves every foot from the floor starting at 2'. The shelves will be 17" long and made from pipe with a 2 1/4" outter diameter. I welded a 3' long foot to each made of c channel to help support it. I plan to weld a piece of 3" channel from the end of the foot to the joint of the first shelf for tiangulation. I also plan to weld a 1' long piece to each shelf.

I hope my goal of overkill is clear. lol I don't ever want to consider the possability of a failure. As part of this plan I want the shelves to be angled back 10* to keep tubing from rolling off. I also plan to put a plate on the end to hold it in also.

Ok, so to my problem. I want to notch the 2 1/4 to the 3 1/2 pipe. In theory I need a 3.5" hole saw blade in a cutter set at 10*. What's the cheapest way to get this done? I tried a plasma cutter, but I am not skilled enough to control it precisely to do that. I could probably do it better with the torch. I have a grinder but I think that would take too long. I am leaning towards a low buck notcher and then use a grinder to open it up more. What do you think?
 
can't you saw 2 1/4 holes in the 3 1/2 like pierced? it would make it harder to put together initially
 
bandsaw/disc cutter a V notch on 10*, set up V notch that the center and ends of the V hit the 3-1/2.. then grind, or get close enough on the V the first time and fill with weld..

or

tilt drill base to 10*
predrill center for hole saw on 10*
load 3-1/2 hole saw
proceed with caution.
lubrication recommended.
yields two sides with 10*

or jdubb's sounds easiest..
 
Or you could 0* V notch the end or 0* holesaw to fit 3-1/2 and bend the 2-1/4 to make the 10*.. that would depend on wall of the 2-1/4..

Or V notch and use a 3-1/2" grinder wheel to fit the 3-1/2 perfect
 
A Lenox bi metal hole saw is about $15-20 at Lowes, and then you can just make a jig for the pipe and drill and go to town. This will be the easiest, fastest, and most accurate method, and I bet once you figure in consumables, probably be the cheapest too.
 
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