Mixing Mud tire brands?

TeamSpatula

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Jun 2, 2005
Location
Hickory
So I was running a pretty new set of 32x11.5x15 Cooper Mud Terrains on my Jeep last year when I put a 3" gash in the sidewall of one. I'd eventually like to go over to a set of bias-ply Swampers, but the budget is a bit tight at the moment, and it's getting close to time to have her up and running again.
I'm wondering which of my 2 options is better, if the second one is even possible without causing problems:
1. get 2 new 32x11.5x15 MTs, probably Dunlop Mud Rovers, as that's the cheapest I can find. That'll cost about $280, and get me back on the road for this season, but I still want swampers.
2. get 2 new 32x9.5x15 TSLs. It will cost maybe $100 more, but then those are the tires I really want, and then later on down the road I can get the other 2.
Will option 2 even work? I know that different brands of tires have different diameters, and I wouldn't want to mess anything up.
All advice appreciated.
Thanks.
 
With option #1, if you're running open axles, it wouldn't be a problem. Pretty sure different diameters will only cause breakage if your fully locked, assuming you had different tires on either side of the same axle. If you have an ARB, you can just run it open and you'd be fine. I'm not even sure a few 10ths of a inch between tires would even really make a difference on a locked axle. As for mixing bias and radials, I wouldn't try it. 2 totally different manners on and off road.
 
Hmmm, forgot to mention that I am welded front & rear.
Also, I would put the 2 matched tires on an axle - as in 2 new tires on the front, 2 old tires on the rear.
 
As long as you keep them matched on an axle, it shouldn't be a problem. Look around, You may be able to get TSL's or LTB's in that diameter for around the same price as the Dunlops. I know they only had LTB's in smaller sizes until recently, that's a tough ass tire with some bite.
 
Offroad, if your tires are different sizes front and rear, and your diffs are welded, your transfer case will bind-up, until a tire slips or the case spills its guts.
Onroad, unlock the hubs and you'll be fine.
 
Offroad, if your tires are different sizes front and rear, and your diffs are welded, your transfer case will bind-up, until a tire slips or the case spills its guts.
Onroad, unlock the hubs and you'll be fine.
Only if the diameters are different. The width won't make any difference in that respect. Such as, I have old worn out BFG's AT's on the rear and new BFG's long trails on the front. There is a bit of size difference but not enough to make the T-case bind. And a definate width difference. While both are 10.5 inches wide (as advertised) the fronts are definately not as wide.
 
Only if the diameters are different. The width won't make any difference in that respect. Such as, I have old worn out BFG's AT's on the rear and new BFG's long trails on the front. There is a bit of size difference but not enough to make the T-case bind. And a definate width difference. While both are 10.5 inches wide (as advertised) the fronts are definately not as wide.
So how much diameter difference can you get away with? I was noticing on the Interco site that they list their 32s as being 32.3", and I'm pretty sure my Coopers are around 31 3/4" or so...
 
So how much diameter difference can you get away with? I was noticing on the Interco site that they list their 32s as being 32.3", and I'm pretty sure my Coopers are around 31 3/4" or so...
I think I've seen on here something like 1 or 2%, but not sure.
 
My 90 K5 Blazer has auburn limited slips front and rear.

I have 33x12.50/15 General Grabbers in front, and 33x12.50/16 TSL radials on the rear (because I got a good deal on them used). You can see the difference in tire diameter - the TSLs are bigger.

On road, as stated in an earlier post, it makes absolutely no difference since the T-case is not locked.

Off road in 4WD, I can feel that there is some bind, and can hear the rear tires slipping a little on gravel sometimes. But it hasn't caused a problem.

I say that I can "feel" some bind, because I can feel something now that wasn't there when I had the same brand of tires on all 4 wheels. Like when in 4WD, if I put the trans in neutral, or in Drive with my foot off the brake, you can tell that there is some drag - it wasn't like that before.

Because of this, I would not put in 4WD on asphalt, but on gravel/dirt/mud it seems that the tires can slip as needed to compensate.

The difference in the tire diameters you stated is like 1.7-1.8%, so should be fine if 2% is stated as OK.
 
No matter what....... when you put your rig in four wheel drive you will have some bind. If all tires are exactly the same diameter.... You will still have some degree of bind.

Something else.... Don't shift into 4WD unless you need it. After you complete your obstacle, back in 2WD.
 
Definately don't mix bias and radials. As previously stated, the two types of tires will react differently.

I think your best bet is to do as GubNi recommends - sell your current tires, and spring for the tires you want.
 
Definately don't mix bias and radials. As previously stated, the two types of tires will react differently.

I think your best bet is to do as GubNi recommends - sell your current tires, and spring for the tires you want.
That would be great, except for trying to sell the tires first, then being able to drive to get new ones put on.
I seem to remember hearing that Galloway's deals in used tires, and will buy your old tires if they're in good shape? Can anyone confirm that?
 
keep checking the FS section and craigslist even if you find some crappy 32s that will allow you to sell your current ones to have $ to get the others, and give you a spare or 2 in the process..

Hell ive got a set of 315/16" ~31" if you can find wheels your welcome to barrow them...
 
I believe you are only supposed to run up to 2% (around 2/3 of an inch on 31s) difference diameter if everything is locked, if you are in mud it wont matter but firmer ground could cause problems. If you go with different diameters put the smaller up front. Just because i'm thinking about it you can also run gears that are off by .01:1 from front to rear. I beleive if you have 4.12:1 in the rear and 4.11:1 in the front its supposed to pull you through mud better by lifting up the front end, but I may have the numbers backwards, I think it is the higher gear up front though.

Chris
 
I think I've seen on here something like 1 or 2%, but not sure.
OK, dragging this back up to the top - can anyone confirm that percentage? My Coopers are 31.76" as listed, and I'm looking at a set of 31.0" listed Swampers. That's about 2.5% difference.
Also - just supposing that I was running the 31s, with a 31.76 as a spare - would that be kosher on a locked axle, or should I do a double swap to keep the same size tires on the locked rear, and leave the front unlocked with the oddball sizes?
Thanks,
 
Those numbers on Interco's site aren't accurate either.

Only a tape measure will tell for sure.
 
What you really need is the revolutions per mile of the tire. The overall diameter tells only part of the tale. How the tire is constructed can effect it's static and dynamic loaded radius. The revolutions per mile actually takes into account the dynamic loaded radius of the tire. How close do you really need to be....I would say within 5% or so.
And, while tread depth will have some effect, the the summit belt package is first order for RPM, so over the life of the tire, your variance is pretty small (from new to worn out). That said, I still don't recommend a new tire on one side of an axle and a worn out tire on the other side. Try to match up each axle as best as possible.
 
Just buy them already!

You'll find a nice cheap, "street balded" tire for a spare later! That way you can ditch those see-thru sidewall radials and quit making excuses come June! :shaking:
 
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