Need an engine

Trebissky

Active Member
Joined
May 16, 2005
Location
Durham, NC
It looks like I have to get a replacement engine for my S15 Jimmy. The mech says that'd be cheaper in the long one than taking it out AND apart to replace several seals on it. :(

Anyone know a good place to get a 4.3L V6 Chev/GMC engine in or near Durham, or that will ship it to the mech, for less than the GDP of Bolivia? Preferably with some kind of warranty? :confused:

(Also putting this in Wanted To Buy forum...)
 
Will you part out just the engine? If so, how much? And how can I get it to Durham?

While I'm thinking about it, will those wheels fit a 4X4 S15 Jimmy? 5 x 4.75 lugs, I think. Not sure about backspace.
 
Jim, I'll make you a deal...

$9000.00 for the motor, I'll deliver it to you house in Durham (or anywhere near by)...I'll throw in the wheels (and the rest of the van) for free.
 
Trebissky said:
It looks like I have to get a replacement engine for my S15 Jimmy. The mech says that'd be cheaper in the long one than taking it out AND apart to replace several seals on it. :(
Click to expand...


Now, I was born at night, but it wern't last night! I know of no seals that can be replaced that would cost more than a whole other engine. Even if it has to be pulled to replace them. Ya have to do that anyway if you replace it. Sounds like you need to get another opinion. Unless there are other issues and the seals are the most evident.
 
lomodyj said:
Jim, I'll make you a deal...

$9000.00 for the motor, I'll deliver it to you house in Durham (or anywhere near by)...I'll throw in the wheels (and the rest of the van) for free.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but then what would I use the rest of the van for? The world's best-equipped dog house? ;)

Now, I was born at night, but it wern't last night! I know of no seals that can be replaced that would cost more than a whole other engine. Even if it has to be pulled to replace them. Ya have to do that anyway if you replace it. Sounds like you need to get another opinion. Unless there are other issues and the seals are the most evident.
Click to expand...
Well I was gonna take it over to Hendrick Chevy and let them look at it, too, just for comparison. And no, if it doesn't really NEED a new engine I'm not about to buy one.

Thing is, the back brakes are pretty much shot, too, and Monro gave me an est of $498, the other guy says $860+. Either way I'm gonna wind up having to get a loan to fix it all. :(
 
I am not a fan of dealerships for repair at all, unless, it is for warranty work. Everytime I have taken a car to a dealership I feel as though I should have "greased up" before I went.

If the S-15 you are talking about is the one in your signature, then I really do not think it is worth what you are saying the repairs will be. Now, not saying it is junk or worthless, but facts are facts.

Right of the top of my head, I can't think of any brake repair costing what you are saying they quoted you. Even if you replaced everything in there on the brake system. But being a poor guy, I am thinking of what it cost me to do it myself. There is very little I pay someone else to do for me. being it electric, plumbing, auto maintenance, or whatever. I have found I can buy the tools and a book, and do the job myself, and still have the tools for another time.

Of course geographics kinda prevent me from helping, but surely you have some gear-head friends that could help you out on this one. At the very least, I would talk to others, and find a private mechanic to do the work. If you were in this area I could recomend a dozen or so good honest guys to do it for you, but I am not sure of your area.
Best of luck
 
I had my entire brake system redone (2 rotors 2 drums callipers pads shoes etc) for 750 on my last F150. Sounds like your gettin bent over if they want to charge that much for just the rear. As far as the engine goes..if you do have to put a new one in it...sell it and buy something else. If your going to be getting a loan anyway...go ahead and get something thats not going to be in need of constant repair.
 
As far as the engine goes..if you do have to put a new one in it...sell it and buy something else.
Click to expand...
Yeah, but in the shape it's in right now... who'd buy it?

Besides, I like that it already has a body lift and 31's, and I do want to go wheeling in something I won't need to worry about getting dings or dents in. As "a vehicle", maybe it's not worth that much, but as a way to get to URE, to me it is.

Besides, if and when I do get all this done, it oughtta be in good shape for a while again.

Anyway, thanks to everybody for your info. Wish me luck, I'll be needing lots.
 
You're talking about a vehicle worth at best 1,300 in running and driving condition, a body lift that would cost ya $105 and $400 worth of used tires. It needs new brakes and an engine, I understand being attached to a vehicle but this is when a friend tells ya to just let it go and start a new.

http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5642

This would cost ya less in the end, get you all over uwharrie as it sits and be a better platform to build from.

Hoping you take this as it was intended and I don't have any vested interest in helping Carl sell the XJ.

Kevin
 
I have a 4.3 I am selling out of my comp buggy.
8 comps on it.
Building a moon buggy for next year.

It is a 2002 from a Blazer. Should be a good match for your rig.
Selling for $750 plus delivery.

I am pulling it out of the buggy this week.

It does not have a PS pump for that price (I put in a PSC hydro pump and pulley) but you can always replace it with yours or I can give you the core to pick one up for less than $100.

It has a new alternator on it

PM me and we can discuss further if you are interested.

alan soutter
apex, nc
 
Something else you didn't mention was the overall condition of the vehicle and motor. It might be a running, driving vehicle, but it's got a couple hundred thousand miles on it. You ask the mechanic for a quote on putting new main seals and a pan gasket on it, and he tells you that the motor has to come out to do the work, and if you're going to pay him $4-500 to R&R the motor, you might as well replace it.

So in that sense, you don't *need* a motor. But if you're looking to pay someone else to fix a couple of seals, you'd be better off paying them to do something more substantial for your money.
 
Putting a Rear main in an S-body anything is a PITA at best. in the earlier vehicles, it is even more of a bear as you either had to bore holes in the firewall or lift the body up to access the trans to engine bolts. either way, it's a job.

the ONLY way you are gonna put a rear main in a 4.3 is if you pull one or the other, and if yer gonna do that, may as well wait till it's out to regasket everything else, just for the ease of access.

Then there is the cost VS worth issue. is the cost of a new engine worth the vehicle ? S-bodies can run some serious miles, but those are well cared for miles. Buddy of mine had one that had 310 on the body/drive line, 3 engines (one was blown by an inattentive driver, 35k)

If'n yer gonna spend the $$$ on an engine, get a NEW one with a WARRANTY, Goodwrench engines have 3yr/100k warranties on them now, parts and labor, no matter who installs it, as long as it is done properly.

Jasper has a similar warranty, but are reman engines ( of decent quality )

AZ, Advanced Auto remans are junk.

Bottom line, you can a little oil over a long time, or drop it all at one time.

Don't forget, the trans needs luv too !

Kevin
 
You were in the military right? Just get ya a pan to put under it where you park like the military and just keep putting oil in it. Change the filter every so often and keep on :driver: . (At least untill you decide what to do). Honestly, if it were me, I'd get rid of the thing. I can tell you like it but it's gonna nickel and dime you to death at this age/mileage. Once you get the engine fixed, odds are the trans will go, or a diff or two. You might even be able to find andother one in better shape. You can find good cheap vehicles on carsdotcom or the like. Just have someone check them out with you when you go to look if you don't know what to look for. (Wreck damage etc.)
 
I appreciate everyone's replies (except maybe for the "more money than brains" one...) and yeah, I've already thought about whether it'd even be worth it. Thing is, that engine may use a lot of oil but it does still run okay as long as I keep up with it. It's the brakes that really need the work and I'll probably need to get a loan somewhere just to afford those.

As for how much, or how little, money is invested in the lift and tires, that's still also money I don't have to put into another one. Besides, like I said I want to not need to worry about getting it bashed up on trails. Hell, it already is, a little bit.

Anyway, thanks again for the advice.

"Lets just wheel it till it dies."
~ The General
 
So in that sense, you don't *need* a motor. But if you're looking to pay someone else to fix a couple of seals, you'd be better off paying them to do something more substantial for your money.
Click to expand...
That's basically what I was thinking. If they have to pull it out anyway, why waste the time (and LABOR) replacing seals (and no doubt finding out what else it also needs... :( ) when they can just drop a different one in instead.

I'll still probably take it to at least one more place and see what they have to say, but again, to get it back on the road is gonna take at least getting those brakes done. :(
 
For what it's worth, I didn't buy this thing new, just got it last December from a 20-odd year old. It wouldn't be a big surprise to find out he didn't take anything like good care of it, and I have no idea how long he had it himself. But it "only" has about 155K on it.

Before that I had a 1988 S-10 4x2 pickup, bought new, that had over 200K miles, except the engine was a reman I got "for free" thanks to some dumbass at Jiffy Lube not putting the oil drain plug in tight. That engine got replaced about 5 years ago with a 1994 model. But only after they had my mechanic try to fix the one that got blown when the plug fell out... several times he tried this, then that, and nothing got that original back working right.

Anyway, that's another reason I want to keep this Jimmy, it's almost exactly the same as my first truck and I got LONG years out of that. I had to replace the brake drums and things like that over the years, but never once did a seal go on that S-10.
 
Man, brake parts for that thing ought to be cheap. Just buy the parts and a manual and do them yourself. When doing the rears just do one side at a time so if you get lost you can look at the other side for comparison. You will have to buy some specialty tools for the springs and stuff, but they too are cheap. You can get them at Sears or even auto zone. There's no time like the present to learn how to DIY in the (relative) comfort of your driveway. Does it need wheel cylinders? (Are you leaking brake fluid back there?)
 
Sounds like you are thinking of just adding oil for the moment, lets talk about brakes.

New Brake drums, $21-33 each

Pads, $12

All in one kit (springs, misc) $4.19

For 99% of the brake jobs that should be all the parts? Even if you start buying all these springs etc, they are $1-2 each.

BTW, these prices are for a 1990 GMC S-15 4x4 at www.autozone.com

I am REALLY NOT a mechanic, but I have been able to replace several sets of brakes myself now (drum, disc, etc) incl new drums/disks.

What I did was buy the HAYNES MANUAL for my truck (Or Chiltons if avail) and had it open...read thru, looked at pictures, etc. (So add $19 for this for the brake job)

Bought Brake cleaner, keeps the dust down...and some brake lubrication ($5 + $2)

Chock off the front wheels and lift the rear end on BOTH SIDES!!! Use jackstands, etc to be safe. ($30-40 at sears will get you a floor jack and 2 stands) Then, take both rear tires off and BOTH drums. After taking off the brake drum, ONLY TAKE APART ONE SIDE AT A TIME. FINISH one entire side BEFORE disassembling the other side. (This way you have one to look at that is 'correct'

Let me repeat that...best tip I ever got...ONLY DO ONE SIDE AT A TIME!! I literally would follow the haynes manual, take it apart...tried to place stuff down in order etc. I still ended up getting up, going over to the other side and looking a couple times to see what it should look like re-assembled. (NOTE, that the other side should be "mirror" opposite, but you can still get the right idea)

Again...if I can do this...you can too, trust me. If you are near anyone on the board, chances are they are willing to SUPERVISE you doing this. (They will get less messy and you get to have a second set of eyes) My neighbor acted as my supervisor on this job and I managed to do it. They may not want to DO the brakes for you, but it doesnt take much effort to watch you work and tell you / advise you.

ANYONE NEAR DURHAM willing to supervise him? (I am 1.5 hours away)

I bet you can tackle this job MUCH cheaper than they are telling you. (Ask them what all they are replacing so we can help you compare) Even if you own almost no tools at all, you can do this job for $200 or less and that will net you $100 worth of new tools! (Prob under $100 if you have tools/access to them)

Sam
 
Does it need wheel cylinders? (Are you leaking brake fluid back there?)
Click to expand...
Yes. That's why so much. If it weren't for that I probably could do it myself.

From what I'm being told it sounds like they have to replace damn near everything from the end of the axle out.
 
Wheel cylinders are only two more bolts and a line fitting. (Unless it's all rusted.) You will just need someone to help you Bleed the brakes after you're done. (I.E. pump the pedal). It will even show you how in the book. The best part about owning a chevy is parts are soooo cheap. This shouldn't be a expensive project really.
 
Rattlecan, any chance you could come up to Durham some weekend and walk me through it? Or at least take a look and see what it really does need? I've got a jack and pair of stands, but no special brake tools, so I'll need to know what I have to go buy before I start even trying to take anything apart. I'm game, but rotating tires is the closest I've ever come to this kind of thing.
 
holy moly bring your turd to my house, i am in durham and i will do the brakes or supervise you doing them. wheel cylinders are like 15 bucks. i will also take a look at your motor seals and see what the deal is there.
 
Back
Top