I just did mine last week. Turned out it was alot easier than I thought. The place to drill it is on the passenger side of the box up toward the input shaft. There is a very noticable flat spot that's machined flat. drill it pretty much any where there but I drilled in the center in line w/ the casting line. the other hole is directly below the other on the thin part. If your looking directly at the top of the input shaft just below it you'll see about a 1/4'' hole w/ a ball bearing drove in it draw an imaginary line down the pass side of the box and drill directly below the upper tap. Kinda hard to explain but if you look at your box I think you'll understand.
I recommend completely disassembling the box and putting in new seals and bearings. It only costs $35 for the kit at AZ. If you dont do this you stand a good chance of getting shavings in the valve body and the piston which is not a good thing at all. Rebuilding it is easy to do. But this is coming from someone thats had two boxes apart. I know some guys that have gotten by w/o taking the boxes apart but after getting into it I really dont see how they havent had trouble.
Note if your using 1/8'' npt fittings they make two different thread count taps 1/8-28 and 1/8-27. I know from experience. If I had to do it over I'd a used 1/4'' fittings.
Thanks guys, i wasn't going to use a ram assist but last friday a trip to uwharrie changed my mind, a cj7 on 44 tsl's with a 454bbc isn't the easiest to drive