Need help with my f250 (shaking, brakes, etc)

BRUISER

silent.. but deadly
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Mar 17, 2005
Location
Raleigh
Ok so yesterday I drove my truck to work and had no problems.. then on the way home from work the brakes were very very touching.. if i just barley touched them they would lock up..

I figured thatwas weird so I pull over check what I can and do nto see any problems, so i kept going....

then all of a sudden between 20 - 45 the entire truck start shaking like crazy... so I pull over againa nd see nothing...

well I make to my 1st destination and stop put emergency brake on and look under hood, under truck see nothign wrong.. so I do what I have to do then go on.

I take off emergency brake and start to drive and all of a sudden my brake pedal goes straight to the floor (oh shit).. so i pump it and the brakes come back and stay back then I drive a little further and it happens again.. so I check fluid level and look under rig and see no problems..

So i limp truck slowly home and to shop.. I get under truck and can not see any problems so i start bleeign brakes and after 45 mins of bleeding all the brakes I can nnot get any pedal at all..

Any suggestions...

tonight I am gonna take off rear drums and check and check all lines to make sure nothign is leaking..

ps: oh ya when I lost my brakes the shaking also stopped
 
Rear wheel cylinder? Have you noticed any fluid on the ground after you leave it parked?
 
Wolfpack OffRoad said:
Rear wheel cylinder? Have you noticed any fluid on the ground after you leave it parked?


nope no fluid
 
1) Master Cylinder
2) Brake Booster
99% its one of the too most likely #1
 
Yeah, get the rear drums off and have a look around.

Make sure you check stupid stuff like wheel bearings, too. A wheel bearing taking a crap would fawk your driveability and your brakes.

This is a TTB truck, right?
 
I would guess & say rear cylinder.. the brake fluid on the shoes can make them grabby as hell, but the vibes don't jive with that... wheel bearings certainly do though!
 
If its a later model 4wd (super duty) check the lower ball joints as well. They eat them on some trucks and other last forever.

The master cly could have been hanging the front brake side of the piston. This would/could cause 3 things.

1) overheated fronts which can cause pulsation
2) loss of pedal
3) pulling, grinding and other odd things.
 
thanks

Looks like I am gonna change ball joints.. hope that gets rid of vibration..

as for brakes we checked them bled them and all seems good... but I am still giving people plenty of room in front of me incase I have to use emergency brake again :)
 
ya now that i think about it, my brothers g30 van had a warped front rotor that caused the BJ to get real loose, and it would shake the whole van to piceces and grab like that on stops... I mean it shook voilently... Good luck
 
Well the ball joints were BAD...

Last night I changed tranny filter and fluid, cut off old exhaust and put new flowmaster on, and then took out ball joints and man were they loose.
Tried to put new ones in and got one in and the other 1/2 way in... dropped it off at buddies tire shop to press it rest of way in.. should have it back together tonight... then I can change oil and take it for a drive :)
 
BRUISER said:
Well the ball joints were BAD...

Last night I changed tranny filter and fluid, cut off old exhaust and put new flowmaster on, and then took out ball joints and man were they loose.
Tried to put new ones in and got one in and the other 1/2 way in... dropped it off at buddies tire shop to press it rest of way in.. should have it back together tonight... then I can change oil and take it for a drive :)


Shoulda hollered at me, I've got a OTC joint press in the junk. :beer:
 
caliper locking up

heated rotor, rotor warped causing shaking

hot parts boiled fluid, lost pressure.
 
also check rear axle seals if they leak and get gear lube onthe shoes it will mak them grab sevsrly enogh to lock up the rear brakes . this happend to me on my way to missouri one time and ended up doing rear seals in auto zone parking lot
 
Well good news is I got it back together and everything is great.. no shaking, full brakes, and tranny seems to shit a little smoother....

now I just need to get more powe out of the engine
 
BRUISER said:
Well good news is I got it back together and everything is great.. no shaking, full brakes, and tranny seems to shit a little smoother....

now I just need to get more powe out of the engine


Cool, dont take this wrong but more power and gas ford late model mills is a oxymoron. Why do you think 90% of the good bolt ons for those things involve a supercharger? :flipoff2:


Glad the fronts smoothed out. Did you install the moog "problem solver" lower joints? They have a alloy/bronze cup rather than nylon, just keep em greased. :beer:
 
Well I decided to replace the master cylinder 1st and if that did not work then work my way down the system replacing things so maybe I will be able to find the problem..

well I will be damn 1st thing I changed and the brakes work great.. new master cylinder and all is fine and the brakes stop the truck QUICK.. thanks for all the help
 
BRUISER said:
Well I decided to replace the master cylinder 1st and if that did not work then work my way down the system replacing things so maybe I will be able to find the problem..

well I will be damn 1st thing I changed and the brakes work great.. new master cylinder and all is fine and the brakes stop the truck QUICK.. thanks for all the help

Those big ones heat up brake fluid a lot. Being hydroscopic it collects water. Change the brake fluid once a year to help prevent water related problems. :beer:
 
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