Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by yager, Jan 25, 2010.
This thing is going to be nasty!
are we done yet????
updates are in the forsale section
Aww man that sucks
Update: Not for sale. Going to keep this one and working on it.
Where were at with things, I left off here before my surgery:
- I've got a ruffstuff toy axle +6" on long side.
I had ECGS align the knuckle balls with their alignment bar and glue em on. I have the +6" longfield inner shaft and some dirty30s for the other shafts/birfs. Its still down there if anyone wants to see it. I haven't been able to lift much for a while...
-T-case 4.7:1 gears installed.
-G54 tranny rebuilt, new bearings/syncros and AX5 input shaft swapped in. Ready to go.
Still working on 4 link placement, but making progress. Have the front and rear frame designs penciled out...
So it looks like I need to repurchase a windshield frame and a few other odds/ends.
New Front Axle
Finally making some progress.
Twisted the arm of a good friend to help me install a man door in the side of my garage. As luck would have it I picked the perfect working weather to pull siding down. I'll snap a pic and post it later on (separately). Hate I waited so many years to finally do this as its already helped out the space in the garage. End result I can finally put the walls back up and get moving on the jeep.
This followed me home last week.
Had the guys at ECGS help me put this axle together about 6 months back. I just wasn't able to lift much to unload it after bringing it home. Lets call it the 'yager special' It's a ruffstuff toyota housing +6" on the long side. I picked up a custom length longfield to use. +6" will help kick the diff to the passenger side a little and help with drive shaft and overall clearance.
Also will be picking up this after work today:
Have some rear tub modifications I want to test out without messing up my whole tub. And I will need the stock cage for dimensions when I build the new one. More details on the specific mods down the road.
What rear axle are you going to run with that +6" wide front Yota axle? Stock IFS rear with wheel spacers?
I have an 03' TRD axle. ~60.5" I will install 1/4" spacer shims but no wheel spacers.
Forgot to post above front will be e-locker also. Ruffstuff can make the housings with that face now.
+6 sounds extreme but when you consider the stock toy front is 55" + 6" = 61"
Few pics... New side door entrance into garage, w/ window (for AC unit) and jeep tub to be used for test/practice cuts.
hey man are you gonna sell the interior of the parts TJ? if so how much ya want for the dash, radio, and speakers?
PM me if you decide to sell things
The green parts TJ is sold, the white one is only 1/2 tub clip...
Damn, that blue TJ gets around. I owned it for a while, I think this is the fourth NC4x4 owner of that thing in a hair over a year.
It's 1/2 way to becoming Navy Blue
Finally a substantial update.. Got some 2x4x.188 box to make up a simple frame to fix all the inefficiencies with the factory frame. I needed more link clearance for more up travel. I also needed more room for steering ram travel at full bump. I wasn't liking my tube front end and how it would play out. I didn't want to have tons of round tube to brace up the front end etc...
So here is what I'm working on:
Frame will have a slight taper this will let me hit all the magic sweet spots I need to hit to allow me to put the tub back on WITHOUT butchering it to death AND clear all the important things.
The front will have a sharp and high rise then a long sweep downward to allow for needed strength up front for the winch and free up the room needed for steering.. The high rise will reduce the needed materials and bracing for the strut mounts.
Wheelbase will be +4 up front and +4 out back putting me around 100" Looks like I'll be needing a custom fuel tank made up again..
Anyway, doesn't look like much but its taken me a while to work through all the placement issues of critical items.
The extra pics are of the mess in the garage.... The tub is hanging from the rafters. Well ok only half the other side is on jack stands... Another is of the rails being fabbed up, using some other steel to keep it all straight and in alignment while I tacked it all..
Looks like a good start on the frame Mike, the miters turned out nice.
Frame rails jigged together and braced with temp cross members.
New body mounts done. They incorporate a 1" body lift.
Slight notch in the floor behind the seats.
Started on front frame section. Pics when its done..
That's looking good Mike, you've been busy the last couple of days.
Notice anything different ?
It's supposed to look 'stock' from the outside...
I'll call this the Yager Hi-Line Rear stealth floor mod
Basically I was thinking one day how useful the front high fender/hood mods are. It allows you to keep a low stance and maintain good wheel travel.. Then out back things fall apart. People add bump stops to limit up travel. You can only trim so far before your inside the tub.
I didn't want a back half project and wanted to maintain the stock appearance and usefulness of the tub in the back. I just needed more room for up travel. I seen some good raised floor projects and many not so good ones. But that don't address more tire room...
Basically this whole project was going to be done after the frame was finished but I realized I needed to get this done before I finalize the frame and burn it in. In a brain fart moment I didn't do the rear frame kick up high enough to clear the axle at full bump. So with this mod I can raise the frame up also...
I was counting all the spot welds on the floor section and stated following the contour around the edges looking to see what actually held the fender wells in place... Not much really. I actually removed more spot welds than needed and while I'm not finished the tub part could be done in a few hours. I want slowly making sure I wasn't overlooking some obvious pit fall that would turn my tub into a pile of metal. Nope all is good... pretty straight forward deal... Which is why I was surprised I've not seen anyone else do it...
More pics and details to follow...
Cut along bottom line all the way across.
Use spot weld cutter to remove spot welds.
The number and position was different on each side.
I found it helpful to use some sand paper to show the high/low areas.
Cut spot weld across the top of the fender and front edge.
I drilled the far left 6 spot welds that were NOT needed.
But have found with them removed it was easier to spread things apart. YMMV.
Cut spot welds at rear door opening.
Trim/notch the lower section to match the original 1.5" higher than stock. (or how ever much your raising the floor)
Pic 4. Cut the floor riser all the way across.
I cut it ~1" below the top edge.
I'm planning to weld in a 2" piece using the slight overlap to prevent burn through.
I already had the floor notched for the frame risers, otherwise you'd have to slice there also.
Pic 5. On the hinge side where a few spot welds on the reinforcement bracket.
There were none on the driver side.
You will have to trim the brackets 1.5" to clear the tub top edge.
That's more/less it for the tear down. Obviously I'm leaving a lot out. You have to carefully pry/wiggle and finesse the spot welds apart. My small rubber mallet worked well without leaving hammer marks all over.
I've started grinding down the spot weld bumps not removed by the cutter. Using the cut off wheel has been doing great and I can slide it in without pulling everything apart...
Holy crap Mike, not wasting any time I see. You decide not to do a trial run on the spare tub?
Do you still have the roll bar from that spare tub???