Discussion in 'Build Threads' started by yager, Jan 25, 2010.
I've been restructuring a little bit, new sections vs old sections
New Sections #202
So where to begin.....
Heck yeah awesome work.
Way back on the first page..... ( Darn your right....... )
Ecotec (the real ecotec) 2.2 GM NA / [R150/AX15] / Toyota Tcase
Im a idoit..... but that not saying much
Nice to meet you the other day
Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
Load that rig up and head out to Ivy branch with us this weekend????
Toyota Air Locker - Got some pancake air cylinders,
its a air in AND air out, 1/2 travel, 1-1/2 (i think) with a 3/8 center shaft.
I had to take to locker apart to get a piece of it, attached to an engagement round thing (part)
The piece was lightly hardened, put it on the lathe and cut it down, and then cut some 3/8-24 threads on it.
And i wanted to use the 2 holes that where there, cleaned the out a little.
Yes i have tested these, they work nicly
The balance shaft elemenater
(yes i spell, very, very, bad, so bad that if I don't spell i right it goes 'ya your on your own' )
Got the motor apart, need some 'bearing' things, to block off the oil flow.
I'm sorry that I'm not paying 80$ for 2 block off, pucks. So...
I soldered it, with the propain torch, then file off the unneeded part.
-- i did try brazing it, and it got way to hot, ...... thank you, spare motor.....
Then to put them in, i had a mark them where i soldered them, (black marker )
and the block where the hole was located.
-- I just used the bump in the aluminum, line
The first one perfect, the second one, no go... i got it the second time.
-- i had the shaft kit to remove and installer, good ol ebay, used of course, $30.....
Then the rest is just hack saw, the rest of the shaft off....
That way when the shaft spins, it only spins enough for the chain to work.
All that the keep the water pump working.........
Oh ya, i like the picture that i have taken with a $20 probe, thing,
I hook it up the my phone, bam !!
I use it for everything
Now your probably thinking why did i not completely remove everything.....
It a lot harder to do that, then to let the chain freewheel.
There an oil tensioner (a tension that runs off oil pressure ) that keep it all tight.
All done ! Yaa it runs....
(yes on some of the previous pictures, there are some odd parts, don't worry i have fixed them )
Air Compressor, (wobble plate)
This is to provide more background information about the A/C and what i had done to it.
There is information 'out there' but much of it, is wrong, do not have pics or requires you to sign up..... uhhh no...
Anyways, I did try it the first pass, i tapped and plug a hole, with out touching the wobble plate.
It work great, for about .5 seconds, hmmmm....
Silly me, i forgot it will make a vacuum on the intake side NOT pump air, continuously, opps....
The wobble plate when it saw vacuum it closes, flat...... well.....progress.... i guess...
Then apart again, I tapped 3/16" hole and then put a alien machine 'screw' into it ,
blocking it off from air come in. This is the 'standard' that everyone else does, the middle of the 6 pistons, (see pictures)
You have to stop the air from recirculating, and make a in/out style pump.
(I'm not sure if my other hole would do anything, so i tapped this, standard hole )
Then, I took the 'spring' out off it, on the inside part, and i substituted a spacer.
A used a brass hex nut for plumbing stuff, out of my junk drawer. (see pictures)
This made it about 50% on the wobble plate. I was worried that it might cycle to fast if it come on at the wrong time.
It can suck up 10-15 hp when it does, kick on, at full load.
I only have about 4 gals of compressor tanks, (2 x 2 gallon tanks)
Next time, I would go to about 75% but its fine for now.
It take from 0 psi to 120 psi, it takes 4-5 minutes,
and that from 80-120psi about 2 minutes. not bad.....
Now, you have to provide lubrication to the A/C, somehow,
I choose to add EP2 grease to the inside, (RED grease)
Being I had it apart, i just glob the stuff in there, done.
Now, a lot of AC pump fail because they do not kick on, or they kick on, but the tolerance is too far for the magnetic, that
activate the clutch to grab on anything, You can easily look at the thing and see that is what going on.
The space is set by the washer that is easily replaced on the bolt that holds the wheel/clutch on.
You need enough space for it to unlatch and re-latch. The shim is just a washer that has a thickness dimension, that it.
So, all i i said was:
Get rid of the spring
tap/plug the hole in the middle of the 6 pistons.
That’s my old tub. Where did you get it? I traded to some guy in Raleigh that sprayed a bedliner in my Tundra. At least the Telico sticker survived.
But you can't have it back.............
But I can give you a ride ?
(Next time you see me, just flag me down.)
on the tub... I got it from (darn) [the guy who was manager at 4 wheel parts] [[yes.... i know/heard]]
i got, two of them, tubs, parts only.....
Way back in the beginning, (see pictures)......
.....Before my stroke
Yea I got burned by him and 2 other guys in the community and suffered some big financial blows because of it. Don’t have anything to do with wheeling now.
Good luck with it.
Cool, i mean sorry, that your not into wheeling....
But, you can come down and be a co-pilot, and wheel the entire day.
(seriously, i mean it)
Over the winter/early spring i made the back end for the jeep.
The i placed a cover over the top section, and i made a tank cover also..
And just recently i 'had' a balance issue, a trip to Wal-Mart, fix that, .20oz BBs
i also did some odd ball stuff....like....
make the aluminum 'fenders'
and the fender flares
and the mirror, outside and inside.....
see the next thread
New Jeep Project, part 2
New Jeep Project, part 2