new trailer pics

me and the guy were lookin for a nice flat place to play a game of football. Mind if we use your trailer? Its big enough.. Sweet trailer man..
 
should be the same kind of ramps yours has, angle iron... they slide into a pocket in the rear. if you look close at the pics, you can see the little door on the rear bumper.
 
well, i've put about 800-1000 miles on it so far and couldn't be happier with it. tows really nice with one vehicle or two. still very maneuverable for being so long and bumper pull. here's a pic of it loaded with about 10-11k:

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it is a little taller than i expected it to be. does anyone have any ideas for ramp extenions or something to facilitate loading low cars? i think it'll be okay for most "normal" cars but something like my corvette doesn't stand a chance right now.
 
nice trailer . post another pic whenever you load your rig on it .
 
i need to figure out a place to mount the spare also. the tongue really isn't big enough with how the jack is, and it's already at the max legal width so it can't go on the side.

i'm thinking of using my old spare tire winch setup from my ram and mounting in under the deck somewhere. thoughts? it's too heavy of a SOB to be tossing back and forth between tow rigs.
 
RufusTheRam said:
i'm thinking of using my old spare tire winch setup from my ram and mounting in under the deck somewhere. thoughts? it's too heavy of a SOB to be tossing back and forth between tow rigs.
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That is a great idea. That's what I want to do.
 
Don't want to get in to your shit but you are only using one strap on the front of the trailer for that jeep from a corner?
Looks in one pic like you were still loading but the other like your driving, you may be a target for the DMV guys. I would think it would not take much for it to shift off that side. If you were using one and say hooked in the center it would still keep it on the trailer if the strap would hold and most of those straps have a 3333lb working load.
Tow trucks get away with hooking on one side because there truck has a lip on the bed that keeps the tire from coming off.
Just my 2 Cents , and don't want you to be a target but with that rig you may be allready.:rolleyes:

As for the spare tire what about putting a 2" rec on the front of the trailer and make a mount that holds the tire in place and if it is ever in the way you can undo the lock and move it when you want, if you put it under the trailer it will be hard to watch for air and may be flat when needed or could get hit with road crap and get cut if it is to low. You can also mount a vice in the 2" and make a 12" x12" steel work area for welding and stuff, I got something like that on my trailer and love it. works real good for working at camp. Think my vice is a 5" and I did a 1/2" 14"x14" steel for weld on, clamping and makes a good work area, the 2" rec will let you set the height and in and out plus I can mount my winch to mine to pull stuff on the trailer of for side loads of each side of the trailer, for small loads... Mine looks like a T one on each side of the trailer and one in the center pointing to the back of the trailer.
 
ramps - I think with the long overhang on both the bus and the trailer that if you drove the rear of the bus up on 2x6 under each rear wheel, it might give you enough lift on the back end to lower the rear of the trailer a good bit...

worst case make a small ramp extention that looks like a metal car ramp like you'd change your oil with, then hook your normal ramps on to those when you need to...

x2 on the straps...
 
yeah, the rear axles on each jeep were only anchored on one side. the font axles were anchored at both D rings. it's not my normal practice, i had ordered some new straps but they hadn't arrived yet.

the red straps on the rear are supposedly rated for 10k, but i don't know. it'd take a hell of a bump to bounce one side that far with the 102" deck. we stopped frequently to check everything. i've got enough to do 4 straps per vehicle now.

good idea on the reciever mount, i may be able to get that to work somehow. i wish i had them make a tray for it with a door in the deck when it was being built, but i wasn't thinking. i guess i could still do that too.

mike, 99% of the time when i'm pulling cars it's going to be with my f350 since that's usually around town stuff or just to the dragtrip, etc. so the board might not work. i do like the idea of that kind of extension though, maybe i could do them out of aluminum so they would be such a hassle to drag out of the truck.
 
RufusTheRam said:
the red straps on the rear are supposedly rated for 10k, but i don't know. .
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If they are the same as mine they are rated at 10k break and 3333 working there should be a tag on them to look at with the info. Good you got more. It may never move but the one time that it would or the strap works loose would make for a bad day. Or just the wrong DMV guy giving you a ticket because he does not think it looks safe thats the big thing.
 
i bought it from a friend. he got it off ebay a few years ago. it's for sale.

i pulled my first car on the trailer this past week, a mercury grand marquis. it was close to dragging, but it loaded without having to do anything to the ramps, etc. which i was pleasantly surprised about. i'm still sure some lower cars will be an issue though.
 
With as long as the trailer is, how much can you crank up the jack on the front?
It should lower the rear when you crank up the front to make it easier to load.

On another note, if the trailer weighs 5k, how much is left for loading it?
What is the bumper pull rating on the F350?
 
the jack doesn't have enough travel to significantly lower the back. i could always put something under it though.

the trailer is rated for 14k, so that leaves about 9-10k or so. i think the trailer is probably actually closer to 4k than 5k. i need to weigh it.

the hitch on my f350 and the bus are both rated for 10k. i've considered upgrading to a 15k, but everything i've read is that there's no real physical difference between them. lots of people towing in excess of 10k for thousands and thousands of miles with no issues. i think the main concern is using a properly rated solid/forged ball mount. most tube/welded ones are only rated for 5k or so. i still may put a 15k on just for the sake of liability though.
 
RufusTheRam said:
the hitch on my f350 and the bus are both rated for 10k. i've considered upgrading to a 15k, but everything i've read is that there's no real physical difference between them..
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I dunno.. I looked at a Reese CLass III/IV receiver right next to a Titan, and everything on the Titan was thicker on the Titan.

But yeah, you're just cutting into the safety factor that they HAVE to over-build into the hitch, that's all..

Finding 2.5" draw bars is tough though, there's not nearly as many as there are for 2". I do like the forged draw bar I'm running though, along with the 10K ball that's on it. (most of those aren't rated 10K either)
 
uglyjeepoffroad said:
With as long as the trailer is, how much can you crank up the jack on the front?
It should lower the rear when you crank up the front to make it easier to load.
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Don't do this. It is picking up the rear of your tow rig by the trailer coupler. The coupler was not designed to do this, and the latching part can get screwed up. Mine did. I have jacks on the rear corners of my trailers now to prevent lifting like this when driving a vehicle on.

You could use a floor jack under the ball - I have done this numerous times, has the same effect on the rear of the trailer as using the trailer jack, but does not stress the coupler in a "lifting" direction. But this means you have to carry a floor jack with you, and pull it out when you need it, which is a hassle.
 
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