On Board Air Help

Ron

Ron

Dum Spiro Spero
Moderator
Joined
Apr 16, 2005
Location
Sharon, SC
All right I am getting the pieces together for this weeks on board air conversion. I have done this several times in the past all with Jeeps and York style compressors. This time its on a K5 with factory air and a Sandedn style comp.
I have most of the basics down from past experinece (IE definitely using an air tank, pressure relief valve, and hard wired toggle to engage clutch)
My question is with the non oiled compressor. I've read that you must use a preoiler and then a filter/separator and return, and I've also been told that as long as you run a few tablespoons of marvels mystery oil through every few months that there is no need for a :confused: constant oil supply.

Anyone have experience with the sanden style and no preoiler? How long has it been working? Any compressor issues?

Also in my research I have seen several people cutting the AC lines and using clamps to adapt to 3/8 air, where as in the past I've kept the full length AC lines and used threaded adapters to resive.. Any success with the clamps? Doesn't sem like it would hold up under 110 -135 psi IMHO
 
This may or may not help. I've been researching on board air for myself and will be doing the switch as well. I've got a Toyota so it's sort of the same compressor in the fact that it's not internally lubricated as well. I've decided to use a tool oiler from northern tool. They have a kit for $7.99 and it includes 15 pieces, Oiler, quick connects, barbs & clamps. I've read many article about people using slick 50 and since it uses teflon it should help with the friction. I haven't personally seen this specific lubrication used. Honestly I don't understand how it would work. I know if has teflon the compressor should be lubricated in a perfect world but the comp will still get hot and I think would lock up. I'm going to use slick 50 and put a couple of tea spoons in before I start it but use the oiler as well. I'm also going to use a 5gal tank in the bed with a check valve. Hope this helps.
 
I have a sanden compressor with a small lubricator like you would use on an air tool. It runs dry in a month or so, but I've never had any problems with the compressor in a years time. I also cut the AC hoses and used hose clamps to hold them onto the barb fittings. No problem there.

If I were you I would definatly spring for a pressure switch instead of running a toggle switch to control the cluth.

Gary
 
ShyHiK5 said:
Any success with the clamps? Doesn't sem like it would hold up under 110 -135 psi IMHO[/QUOTE

Clamps work just fine. How are you going to maintain 110 - 135 psi with out a pressure reg ?
Don't blow yourself up. Go spend the $30 a get a spring loaded pressure reg.

JB
Click to expand...
 
A friend of mine has used a Sanden style off a K5 with no oiler for a few years. Just dumps some oil in before each use. I have been using the factory comp on my Bronco for a year with no oiler. I just pour a little ATF in the air intake hose before I use it.
 
I've read many articles about people just dumping 10-40 and other oil with luck to. I just decided to do the oiler b/c it seamed simple. I'm experimenting on the first setup though. I've located A/C comps for $25.00 with $10.00 shipping. Check out car-part.com you will find many.
 
As far as maintaining pressure, in the past I have mounted a gauge in the vehicle and put a 150psi pressure relief valve as a backup so in case I forget it will blow the poppet. I had the experience of an air hose busting once and the pressure switch engaging the clutch until the battery drained. NOT GOOD.
Of course this could have been remdied by getting my hot off a switched source instead of a constant battery, but I figured just go ahead and use the toggle, plus less mess under the hood.

For those running the pre-oiler:
Are you using a separator dryer downline?
How about an oil return? Or just manually draining and refilling.
 
ShyHiK5 said:
For those running the pre-oiler:
Are you using a separator dryer downline?
How about an oil return? Or just manually draining and refilling.
Click to expand...

I don't use a dryer. I just refill the oiler with 3-n-1 or air tool oil.
JB
 
I've bought a filter from Home depot I think it was around $15.00. I was told not to use a return. Rich stated it best "Don't over think this thing" Water will get in the line and back into the pump. Won't save but $.10 or so each use. My whole setup will be a pressure switch 80-125psi, manifold, guage, pop off @ 200psi, quick disconnect and later down the road a 5gal tank. with comp I think I'll have $100.00 less tank and lines assoc with tank.
 
Last question then I will le this dead dog lie.
I'm wanting to use 3/8" hose, but it saves considerable $$$ to stick with 1/4 for the oiler and separator (if I use one at all) any benefit to using 3/8 hose if I've already stepped down to 1/4 at the oiler and/or dryer?
 
I read an article were a person was switching over to 3/8 but he switched the whole system. I may not be exactly right but I think you will be waisting your money. Stepping up and down in size doesn't help. I could be wrong though because the oiler will be close to the comp right? Money wise I'd prob stick with 1/4 your not running heavy equipment so it shouldn't matter that much.
 
Back
Top