Pickin’ tars and tar sizes

ponykilr

ponykilr

Old Crow
Joined
Apr 26, 2021
Location
Lowgap
I have found another set of Moab wheels and plan to put some trail tires on them.

It has 285s on it now.

Currently I have 6.25” from top of tire to flare lip in front and 5.75” in rear.

I’m not sure of where the bumpstops are set to now but those can be tuned.

Can I use 35” trail tires with proper bumpstops or should I stay with 33”?

I would use 315s if metric or if TSLs would 35s or 36s be better? I know the actual sizes are screwy so I defer to you guys for advice.
 
ponykilr said:
I have found another set of Moab wheels and plan to put some trail tires on them.

It has 285s on it now.

Currently I have 6.25” from top of tire to flare lip in front and 5.75” in rear.

I’m not sure of where the bumpstops are set to now but those can be tuned.

Can I use 35” trail tires with proper bumpstops or should I stay with 33”?

I would use 315s if metric or if TSLs would 35s or 36s be better? I know the actual sizes are screwy so I defer to you guys for advice.
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I think with the moabs being a factory offset wheel, you'll get away with 33s but will still likely rub at full lock on the steering. 35s will rub no matter how you bumpstop them when steering. With that front sway disconnected it's going be be more flexy than you think.
 
FWIW a buddy of mine ran a tj with 3" coils and 33x10.50 pizza cutter swampers on whatever wheel was right before the moab way back in the day. It wheeled fine but would eat flares when flexed and turning.
 
willness33 said:
FWIW a buddy of mine ran a tj with 3" coils and 33x10.50 pizza cutter swampers on whatever wheel was right before the moab way back in the day. It wheeled fine but would eat flares when flexed and turning.
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Canyons probably. All 6.5 BS iirc.
 
16" Moabs?

Yeah you're pretty limited to metric. Not because they don't MAKE them...supposedly they MAKE TSL's in the 33x13/16LT flavor but I'd buy you a drink if you can FIND some. (a cheap drink..cuz I may be proven wrong at any moment)

With 3" you're not putting 35's under there without heartburn at full lock/flex.

33's will scrub, even pizza cutters. Depends on what you're you're looking for offroad (rocks, mix, mud)
 
CasterTroy said:
16" Moabs?

Yeah you're pretty limited to metric. Not because they don't MAKE them...supposedly they MAKE TSL's in the 33x13/16LT flavor but I'd buy you a drink if you can FIND some. (a cheap drink..cuz I may be proven wrong at any moment)

With 3" you're not putting 35's under there without heartburn at full lock/flex.

33's will scrub, even pizza cutters. Depends on what you're you're looking for offroad (rocks, mix, mud)
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:stupid:
 
So I could use 255/85s then…
May would do better than 285s as far as rubbing.

I don’t believe I want to add any height to this truck, it rides and drives great without any drama and keeping it drama free is important.
 
willness33 said:
I'm going to drop some unpopular opinions but if you're dead set on the moabs I'd consider a quality hub centric 1.25" wheel spacer and a 1" BL. That will help you out a lot with a 285. :stirthepot:
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Same

1-1/4" BL, 1" brown dog MM lift and SYE as well, to line things back up proper like
 
Between a BL, MML, and wheel spacers, you should have pretty decent clearance for a 33/285 and have good driveline angles.
 
My jeep was the most fun on 32's and a 2" spacer lift. Stepping up to 33s is what started the spiral. If I had it all to do over again...
 
jeepinmatt said:
My jeep was the most fun on 32's and a 2" spacer lift. Stepping up to 33s is what started the spiral. If I had it all to do over again...
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Yeah I don’t want moreitis and I know there is a point where the outlay required for the next level probably isn’t worth the squeeze.

I think I’ll look for a good 33, some sway bar discos and be happy.

I was always happy with my original Rubicon on 33s. Did some fairly amazing stuff which led to my saying and former signature line “lockers beat lift”.
 
shawn said:
Don't waste your money. Run with the stock bars connected front/rear, or spring for an anti-rock in the front.
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Splain please. I had them on my 05 Rub and it was much more flexy.
 
ponykilr said:
Splain please. I had them on my 05 Rub and it was much more flexy.
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Some of the bad behavior that people attribute to the link design is the result of having the front sway bar disconnected. The rear sway bar is still connected, so the body tracks with the rear axle. That causes all sorts of issues. If you're open/open, disconnecting the front sway bar will let you get a lot of places that you couldn't otherwise go because you'd teeter totter when opposite corners unweight (which is hard on tires and hard parts, too). With lockers, it's less of an issue if you carry a tire once in a while, and you don't have enough tire or suspension travel (track bar/steering/shock limited) to get yourself into too much trouble.
 
shawn said:
Some of the bad behavior that people attribute to the link design is the result of having the front sway bar disconnected. The rear sway bar is still connected, so the body tracks with the rear axle. That causes all sorts of issues. If you're open/open, disconnecting the front sway bar will let you get a lot of places that you couldn't otherwise go because you'd teeter totter when opposite corners unweight (which is hard on tires and hard parts, too). With lockers, it's less of an issue if you carry a tire once in a while, and you don't have enough tire or suspension travel (track bar/steering/shock limited) to get yourself into too much trouble.
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Ok, I understand that.

I would also think what you said as far as the rear bar being in control could cause some moments when unintended body flopping could occur (I remember a few instances) like when one rear tire drops off of a ledge and the front does not have enough side to side control.

Maybe less chance of ripping off a flare as well.
 
ponykilr said:
Ok, I understand that.

I would also think what you said as far as the rear bar being in control could cause some moments when unintended body flopping could occur (I remember a few instances) like when one rear tire drops off of a ledge and the front does not have enough side to side control.

Maybe less chance of ripping off a flare as well.
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Run the same trails with them connected and then disconnected. See which you like better. Doesn't take long to unbolt one end.
 
On the wheel spacer topic. If I do some 1.5” spacers to run all the time no matter which tires I have on it, what if any on road change will I notice? Will it be weird in any kind of turning situation or possibly cause DW to rear its head due to more leverage on the steering from road inputs?

My old Rub didn’t have DW until I put the black crawler wheels on it that had more offset. I never 100% cured it but I made it mostly better by some heavier steering components and constantly tightening things.

I also believe DW can be related to wheel/tire weight and they were steel wheels. I think having a drop pitman arm can contribute as well, my current Rub doesn’t have one.
 
Wheel spacers dont cause DW. Worn/loose parts, out of balance/round tires and bad alignment do. On road handling may even be better due to the added track width but honestly mostly unnoticeable
 
On a similar note, I am looking to run a ~31" tire on a 17" wheel for a DD. There are a number of different sizes out there. Anyone know or have opinions on what size seems to have the best tire options/prices?
 
paradisePWoffrd said:
On a similar note, I am looking to run a ~31" tire on a 17" wheel for a DD. There are a number of different sizes out there. Anyone know or have opinions on what size seems to have the best tire options/prices?
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We talking Jeep or ?
 
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