Plumbing

mbalbritton

mbalbritton

#@$%!
Joined
Mar 22, 2005
Location
Lakeland, FL
Anyone here do Plumbing. Specifically, Sewer lines.

the City came around and put in Sewer lines then told us to hook ourselves up.

I'm inclined to go in with my neighbor and rent a Trencher and DIY it. But I'd rather talk to someone who has done it before I dive in.
 
Agreed, but at some that time will come. So I'm wanting to find out now. Also, we may be looking at moving and it would be a higher resale If I can tap in myself.

We also got a letter in the mail saying we needed to have it done by Sept. ??? WHAT? They are MANDATING that it be done? sorry, but that's unconstitutional isn't it?

I'd rather be on City Sewer and not have to worry about my septic, but don't tell me I have to!
 
A friend did this at his house when he remodeled. It didn't seem like a big ordeal. Lots of digging but I think it was straight forward. 4" sch 40 from Home Depot and MSD connected it.
 
Mine 'city of raleigh' hook up is 4" PVC. Not sure what the tie in is, but I think your on the right track about doing the heavy work yourself. You will still need it inspected before you cover the hole up etc.. Though don't pull a ratlab and not use enough solvent on the joints, could be a big mess !!!
 
The connection is typically 4" PVC drain pipe. don't worry with the Sch 40 stuff, its not under pressure.

I think IBC is 1/4" per foot slope for waste. Remember, more slope is not better, so don't go overboard. more slope = water out runs the solids and you get a clogged pipe :(

Be sure to back fill properly or the trench will be the low spot and a mini sink hole can develope. Not sure on your code but I think sand or screenings for the pipe bed would be sufficient then backfill carefully so you don't damage the pipe, in 6" lifts and compacted to 95% and you should be good with little to minimal chance of a low spot after time. Check your local codes. most referr back to IBC 2009 though.

Connecting into a public utility, you need a permit and inspection. I think code requires cleaner, primer, and cement on the PVC. The primer is purple for a reason. It indicates it is the correct primer for the application and shows the inspector that it was used, so be sure to use it on both fittings and the pipe. Wipe excess off from the inside. I've always inserted the pipe into the fitting and rotated 1/4 turn for full adhesion. I've never had a PVC fitting leak like this.

I'm sure there is more and I'm sure you are plenty capable :)

BTW, I don't think they can require you to tie into city sewer. The only way they can do that is if you don't have room for a septic tank or your land doesn't perk. I could be wrong though since all of our rights are constantly being taken...
 
here in Goldsboro,it's 1/8th inch fall per foot or 1.1% for 4 inch.If you were close,I'd hook up our laser and run grade for you.Our utility liscense runs us from 5 feet out of the house to anywhere in the right of way.I do this work ALOT.Let me run through the steps for ya the way I would do it for my house.

1st: dig up the line at the house where you are going to tie to the existing tap.Measure back to the cleanout at the right of way.If minimum grade is 1/8th inch per foot,every 8 feet will equal one inch of drop.Math is your friend here.I have access to both a pipe laser and optical level.If you can get a level and grade rod,set up and shoot the top of the 4 inch pipe at the house.Take that number and add .37 to give you the bottom of the pipe.once you establish that,then add .08 to that to get the botton of your trench 8 feet out.I generally do it in 10 foot increments to keep a steady fall.You can figure your amount of fall at the right of way cleanout with your distance measurement.Divide your distance by .08 and take that number and add it to your beginning bottom of pipe shot.Shoot the top of ground at the right of way cleanout and subtract the 2 numbers to get you your depth at cleanout number.
2cd: If no level/grade rod,you can do it by string line using batter boards a tape measure,and a level.Again find the top of the pipe at the house.Set up a stringline directly over the pipe and run it in the direction you need to go to clear your tank to get to the cleanout.Set up another batterboard where you need to turn.The string is gonna need to be level so you are going to have to support it.A string level will work for this.Now you can measure to the top of pipe,add 4 and a quarter inches and that is your bottom of pipe.Every 8 feet,be one inch lower than the previous and work out the slope.
3rd way is to go to a plumbing supply store and get a 4 foot level that is graduated with lines on the bubble denoting what grade you are doing.Doing it this way cuts out the mathwork BUT it will leave you guessing as to depth at the cleanout and if you need a piece of equipement to dig it out.
 
dont forget a cleanout, some regulations require one every x number of feet.
 
now I advise getting cellular core schedule 40 pvc pipe.It is not for pressure yet wont deform underground.It is cheaper than standard sch. 40 pvc too.

Your bends will come in at 22.5,45,90 degree bends.Make sure your bends are for sewer and not for pressure,The wider the bend you do,the better it will be.A 90 bend itself is way to short asnd should be used only to turn up at a cleanout point behind a bend in the line.If you do a 90,use what is called a combination wye.It will give you a long sweeping bend and out the backside you can do a standard pvc sewer 90 and turn it up for a cleanout.If you don't want to do a cleanout at this point,use 2-45 bends and about 8 inches of pipe to do the turn.Depending on what you have to turn to get out from the tank will determine the number of bends and what degrees they are.If you are lucky,the tank is to one side and you can cut out the existing bend and run straight on.If not then you will need to plan it.If you have 4 inch cast iron coming out the house,use a 4inch CI/4inch CI fernco to tie your plastic in.At the house,Install a 4inch pvc wye that is swept in both directions as the cleanout closest to the home.You can rod both to the street and back under the house.In Goldsboro,a cleanout will be installed every 75 feet on a 4 inch line.Use a pvc combination wye at these points.Hopefully you will only need the one at the house and the existing at the ROW.
You will either glue a connection at the ROW cleanout or if they use CI,you will pull the plug out the back of their comb. wye and push in a pvc female adaptor.
 
call the inspections department in your town and find out if you have any fees to pay.Also this is the time to find out and wright down what the requirements are.Chances are you will be inspected before you can backfill the ditch since you are in town.

If you need to talk one on one...just pm me and I'll send you number to call.I know what I have written down is as clear as mud but without knowing what you are working with,I'm trying to cover alot of bases. Jimmy
 
Has the city tapped the sewer main, if not, they or a licensed utility contractor will have to make the tap so you can tie on.
The difference in elevation between the sewer main and where your sewer line exits the house will determine the % of grade but 1/8" per foot is the minimum.
Using a trencher will be difficult to stay on grade, better off renting a mini excavator to dig the trench. The tie on to the tap is usually inspected by public works and the sewer pipe and tie on to the house is inspected by the city/county plumbing inspector.
Have fun!
 
foreman1063 said:
Has the city tapped the sewer main, if not, they or a licensed utility contractor will have to make the tap so you can tie on.
The difference in elevation between the sewer main and where your sewer line exits the house will determine the % of grade but 1/8" per foot is the minimum.
Using a trencher will be difficult to stay on grade, better off renting a mini excavator to dig the trench. The tie on to the tap is usually inspected by public works and the sewer pipe and tie on to the house is inspected by the city/county plumbing inspector.
Have fun!
Click to expand...
I'm kind of thinking if he runs minimum grade,he won't have to dig as deep across most of his yard and then use 2 -45s to drop down to the invert of the cleanout.Some folks can even tie into the cleanout stack itself if the tap is real deep at the ROW.That hookup might not be alowed by the codes.

miniX is the way to go here on digging the ditch and back filling it.
 
yager said:
Though don't pull a ratlab and not use enough solvent on the joints, could be a big mess !!!
Click to expand...

:flipoff2::flipoff2:

Mom recently went through this at Lake Gaston.
They can't "require" you to hook up.
They do, however, make the connection rate substantially higher after a certain date. So functionally... yes, required.

Personally I don't see the big draw on home resale, where you live septic isn't that abnormal.
Septic = free, I'd rather have it myself.
 
Most municipalities offering sewer hookup also requires "destroying" the septic tank... that generally involves pumping it out and at minimum filling the tank in (dirt/gravel/concrete), but many require it's total removal :shaking:

Better check that before you start :flipoff2:
 
oh have they talked to you about your water bill yet? Most likely they are going to charge you sewer rates anyhow whether you use it or not if the tap has been installed.That might negate the "septic=free" statement in his case.I say tie on and live life.
 
Back
Top