Power locks jeep cherokee

Keith1138

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 18, 2015
Location
Harrisburg NC
My power locks have stopped working in my 2000 jeep cherokee. I've checked wiring in my doors, fuses, and replaced the switches in my passenger and drivers door. Any body got any ideas on what to check next? My windows and mirrors still work.

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Could be wires coming through the body into door. They are bad about breaking.
 
Make funny noises in operation? Or just nothing? If nothing, Suspect relays, master door wiring, switches, or bcm.
No sound at all from the drivers or passenger side switches.

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Do you have a service manual you can look at? This should be fairly easy to track down with a multimeter and the door schematics.
 
Do you have a service manual you can look at? This should be fairly easy to track down with a multimeter and the door schematics.
I do not have either. What type of multimeter? Also any tips on how to use one?
I should be able to find a service manual diagram online.

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I remember some guy on NAXJA having to open up the door switches and solder to repair them. A 99 XJ in the family has busted switches. Windows only worked from the drivers door and the power lock work on all doors minus the drivers door. So odd :D


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RF door lock/window switch controls all the locks directly, and the LF switch ties to the RF to operate the locks. So I'd suspect passenger switch module is bad.

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You can usually pick up a volt meter at harbor freight for free with a coupon.
 
That's cool, should be easy to troubleshoot based on that schematic. You can check almost everything you need at the connector(s) that plug into that passenger side module, because power, ground, etc., are all there to be easily probed with a multimeter.
I suspect that you've got a broken wire somewhere, especially if you've replaced that passenger side module with a known-good unit.
 
So what setting would the knob on the meter need to be on and what would I look for as I prob each prong on the plug?

I'm sorry I've never done anything like this before.

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I'd suggest a test light to check power and ground. Faster go/no go check, & not suspect to picking up phantom voltage. If you use a meter, set to volts dc and measure across power and ground. Should be battery voltage.
 
So would I just ground the black probe to any piece of metal then check each wire with the red probe. If the multimeter reads zero or almost zero the wire is broken?

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Resistance (ohms setting) is used to check continuity - wires end to end, while unplugged at both ends

Voltage is used to check when connected, if checking for power (+ battery supply say), ground one lead and use the other to probe with.

If checking ground, you can either ohm the wire to ground or measure voltage across the ground wire and power wire or measure voltage from positive battery to probed wire. If checking for power, ground one lead and probe with the other, set to voltage.

To check a switch, use ohms (set to lowest scale, usually 200 ohm) and measure across the switch with both leads.

Clear as mud?
 
Ended up being a broken wire just inside the door. I stopped like a 1/4 of an inch before it when I first checked.

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I was surprised that the passenger door was master. But you both win the internet because you both were half right.
To claim your prize you must answer which came first the chicken or the egg?

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If you win the internet, what do I win? See 1st post..



(Passenger door is master for the door locks, surprisingly)
Make funny noises in operation? Or just nothing? If nothing, Suspect relays, master door wiring, switches, or bcm.
It doesn't count when you name 5 different things.:flipoff2:
 
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