Project Sloan 93 yj

[Shreddinlettuce]

Atlas shifter mod front is forked rear is round

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Wiring in and only lacking lights, all fluids filled at least to where I can start bleeding g stuff, appointment with mason muffler in the am, should be cranking her up next week since I’m working the weekend

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Current situation!

 

[justjeepin86]

That looks slick!

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Exhaust in! You don’t realize how many spots you didn’t get paint on until it’s on a lift, gonna switch to brushwork for the rest of this project

Mason muffler came in under quote and the results are awesome

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Surplus medchest for the win!

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Got a 2 speed fan, high and low. Planning to run a thermostat switch with 190/165 setting to run high fan, and a dash switch powering a relay for low fan. I could switch low fan on for crawling with continuous low and the thermostat would kick on at high temps, it would also be a fail safe as 2 circuits would have to fail to have a no fan situation

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Anyone have experience with Eldorado combo e brake disc calipers and universal cable kit?

I’ve got a set on order that will fit in place of the 3/4 ton chevys I have on. Need the e brake for safety inspection.

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Using the cylinder heads for all chassis grounds and a 2 gague from battery negative to the block (filed off paint and used dialectic grease to prevent rust). Will still run ecu direct to battery leads as Holley recommends

 

[Monkeynono]

Anyone have experience with Eldorado combo e brake disc calipers and universal cable kit?

I’ve got a set on order that will fit in place of the 3/4 ton chevys I have on. Need the e brake for safety inspection.
View attachment 392355

I didn't know Buncombe did safety for something that old? Mine only get a nothing inspection and is good to go.

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

I didn't know Buncombe did safety for something that old? Mine only get a nothing inspection and is good to go.

There’s a checklist. Lights brake turn head (they actually check for min brightness, e brake, wipers, tire tread, seat belts if they came in the car etc. it’s pretty Mickey Mouse but the lights e take and wipers are the main ones

 

[Monkeynono]

Official NCDMV: Vehicle Safety Inspection

www.ncdot.gov

According to this you should be exempt?

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Official NCDMV: Vehicle Safety Inspection

www.ncdot.gov

According to this you should be exempt?

I’ll go tomorrow and see if they let update my plates without inspection

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Holley terminator works well with ls motors. Still need to hook up gages and my turn signal triggers hazards in both directions but I’m getting there. Not sure how I feel about the intake being soo loud

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Better sound without the mic pointed at the intake, thus cone filter sounds like a shop vac at idle

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Let’s see if gravity bleeding is better than the phoenix reverse bleeder. I got no pressure in the pedal after 2 rounds reverse bleeding. Then lots of bubbles came out gravity bleeding

 

[Shreddinlettuce]

Copied from a Chevy forum, found my problem. The brakes may well be bled, but the bore in the master cylinder doesn’t engage with the plunger from the hydroboost. I used a corvette style because the suburban master has 7.5” over center to the cap and corvette is only 3.5”.

Now I’ve gotta buy a compatible master cylinder.


I wanted to put a a little info, hope this helps out.
There are two normal types of master cylinder pistons when it comes to the input seat. Shallow bore (left pict 1) and Deep bore (right pict 1). Most commonly, Shallow bore styles are used with power brakes, and Deep bore types are used in manual set ups. It is now common in the aftermarket to use Deep bore pistons in all master cylinders, and convert them to Shallow bore style by inserting a "plug" into the bore. (shown below the Deep bore master on the right). Here's the catch. The fit from a booster or hydro to the piston should be set at "zero" lash. Think of setting up a solid cam at .000" to .002", basically zero lash. If the output rod from the booster/hydro is not letting the piston return 100%, you may (not always) have some brake drag problems. I have found it to be VERY common, with new aftermarket masters, that the plug is too long. usually .070" to .100", yes, almost 1/8". You should be able to bolt the master flush to the booster/hydro without compressing the piston into the master. I cut the plugs down in a lathe, but they can be ground or sanded.
Another way to adjust this is with the booster output rod (pict 2) most - not all - are adjustable at the tip of the output rod on the booster. Sorry, but most hydroboost unit are not adjustable. Checking the master/booster fit should be standard practice on any new brake install, just like setting valves. Hope that helps out.
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