Propane Gas Grill line

[RenegadeT]

I'm thinking this is something I can do myself, but lemme know if I'm being stupid and risk blowing something up.

I'm looking to get rid of the propane bottle on my gas grill and tap into the bottle that feeds my gas fireplace. I have a full unfinished basement, and have full access to the line feeding the gas logs. Right before the logs, there is a shutoff valve, then a black pipe tee. One of the outputs obviously goes to the logs, but the other maybe was a pressure test port, or someone thought ahead, and its a capped 1/2"NPT 4" straight section....perfect for piping propane out to my deck.

So I was thinking about going to Lowes and getting some black pipe elbows and 2 10'-foot sections and a 2 footer is all I need to get to my grill. Then I guess some sort of flex line to pop thru my deck and into the actual grill regulator.
Now I'll need to reduce from 1/2NPT to I think the grill is 1/4" NPT. Is there any reason why I shouldnt reduce at the tee and run 22ft of 1/4" black pipe, or should I continue with 1/2" and reduce at the grill? Some of this will be running outdoors under my deck, if that matters.

Work of this nature might require some sort of permit or inspection. I was hoping to get by without it. Any sort of codes I need to be aware of?

How about the regualtors? I have no clue whats on my grill or on the supply bottle. I'm thinking since when the gas co. brought the bottle, and they knew it was for gas logs only, the bottle regulator can't be set too high, probably good for also tying in a gas grill...?

Any tricks of the trade or experiences appreciated

 

[Blkvoodoo]

talk to your propane supplier, Hank Hill should have the answers you seek.

I've been tossing around a similar idea for my grill, but I was also going to add a gas stove in the house (currently electric)as well ( I don't have anything propane at the house but the grill at this time)

 

[Ron]

There should be a 3-6" "down" leg somewhere near that T that allows condensate to settle out of the LP. As long as you arent grabbing that you should be fine.

If you are, it is still an easy fix, you just add another T then proceed as planned.

You will be fine as far as pressure is concerned.

Codes, You are doing it yourself in your house, right?
if so rock on. If not check with the AHJ, this will really depend area to area

 

[RenegadeT]

There should be a 3-6" "down" leg somewhere near that T that allows condensate to settle out of the LP. As long as you arent grabbing that you should be fine.

If you are, it is still an easy fix, you just add another T then proceed as planned.

You will be fine as far as pressure is concerned.

Codes, You are doing it yourself in your house, right?
if so rock on. If not check with the AHJ, this will really depend area to area

Good to know, sounds like I was planning on grabbing the condensate drain stub, makes sense, I can add another tee and branch off that.

OK to reduce at the tee and run 1/4" to the grill?

I just thought of this, probably a real good idea to add a shutoff valve near the grill, between the hard pipe and flex.

 

[Yay!Gurrr]

yes definitely add shutoff before flex hose.

 

[Ron]

x2

 

[tw89yj]

You need to run 1/2", copper type K tubing will be fine, from the T to the grill. Reduce it at the grill.

 

[RufusTheRam]

why dump all that money on copper? K is stupid high now. black iron is just fine, and specifically for carrying gas.

you should be able to piece it all together with stuff from lowes and not have to do any threading. i reccomend using as little of that flex crap as you have to. in fact, if you can, i would just hard pipe it all the way to the grill and attach your soft line on the grill. i've seen it leak too many times, especially if you have to loosen/retighten it for any reason.

as has been said, make sure you incorporate another drop leg. it's just fine to branch off the T that's there, just make sure to add another one. don't forget to dope all of your connections.

 

[tw89yj]

why dump all that money on copper? K is stupid high now. black iron is just fine, and specifically for carrying gas.

Because it is a hell of alot easier to run, meets code, and can be done neatly. When you get to the floor of the deck, put a shut off valve, then a quick connect(designed for gas), then a rubber vapor hose. That way, you can turn the shutoff off, disconnect the grill with no tools, and move the grill out of the way.

You run it in black iron, I'll do the same job in copper. We'll see who comes out ahead cost and time wise, I'd be happy to throw down a healthy wager in my favor.

 

[RenegadeT]

I got all the parts from Lowes, black pipe, I hadnt seen the debate here about copper vs. pipe. My time is "free", and with either black pipe or copper, its gonna take me 50x as long as you pro's anyways

Instead of a tube of pipe dope, I got a roll of teflon tape for gas (yellow). So that flex line is crap, huh? It was a budget killer @ $25, I'll look into returning it and adding a 12-18" hard line up to the back of the grill. A q/c is a good idea, I didnt think of that either, I'll look into putting one between the rubber flex line of the grill regualtor and the hard line that pops thru the deck. Thanks for the tips

 

[RenegadeT]

quick connect

I already have a quick connect on my grill regulator (Weber, its actually harder to find the correct propane bottle at Blue Rhino, etc). Would Lowes have the other end of the q/c that I could adapt to the 1/2" black pipe?

 

[RufusTheRam]

You run it in black iron, I'll do the same job in copper. We'll see who comes out ahead cost and time wise, I'd be happy to throw down a healthy wager in my favor.

i'll take that bet any time. i run pipe for a living, i'm not just a weekend warrior talking out of my ass. you might want to price K copper first, and you better bring your A game for time.

Because it is a hell of alot easier to run, meets code, and can be done neatly.

easier to run is very debateable. sure, if you're having to thread the black pipe there is the argument running copper is easier. certainly not if you're just using pre made/threaded lengths though.

technically, copper does meet code. it's frowned upon though, especially for natural gas use.

where's the difference in neatness? black iron can be run just as straight as any other hard pipe.

So that flex line is crap, huh?

in my opinion, yes. not only does it look like crap snaked all over the place, i've seen too much of it leak at the connections if you happen to bump it or it needs to be taken off/reattached for whatever reason.

 

[tw89yj]

easier to run is very debateable. sure, if you're having to thread the black pipe there is the argument running copper is easier. certainly not if you're just using pre made/threaded lengths though.

We are in agreement here, very rare for premade lengths to workout.

technically, copper does meet code. it's frowned upon though, especially for natural gas use.

In Wake Co, I can see it being frowned upon. I don't use it as much as in the past. Typically use CSST, but that wouldn't be helpful for Renegade in this situation.

where's the difference in neatness?

My point was exactly opposite of how I think you took it. Black iron makes for a neat job, but copper tubing can be done neatly.

 

[RenegadeT]

You guys are funny, how about we have a plumb-off at my house this weekend

FWIW, the builder ran copper from the bottle to the area underneath the gas logs. It looks like ass, it runs diagonally across under the floor trusses, but its a basement so it doesnt matter. Then there is the black pipe tee with some flex coming out going to the gas logs.

I think with my (lack of) skills, I can make the black pipe look decent, running along the floor joist under the deck. Aesthetics is kind of important here, cuz we have a patio area under the deck. I can use a pre-threaded 10' section and a 30" section along the deck joist, then run it long inside the house to a 90degree elbow and another 10' section to the gas logs tee.

 

[RufusTheRam]

very rare for premade lengths to workout.

not at all, really. i frequently pipe in water heaters and gas logs using nothing but pre made lengths. just takes some careful planning up front and an eye for how the run is going to be. i'd say 1 out of 5 times i need to thread a piece or two.

In Wake Co, I can see it being frowned upon. I don't use it as much as in the past.

it's really frowned upon anywhere natural gas is used, not just wake co. supposedly it flakes. i always hear inspectors say it's going to be pulled from the code book, but it hasn't yet.

not so much an issue here though since he's using propane, but you never know when someone might get the chance to hook on to natural gas.

My point was exactly opposite of how I think you took it. Black iron makes for a neat job, but copper tubing can be done neatly.

ah... agreed. in fact, we primarily use copper still for water with that being one of the reasons why.

FWIW, the builder ran copper from the bottle to the area underneath the gas logs.

as i mentioned, it's not really a concern since you're on propane. if you were ever to switch to natural gas, it would be.