Quick Beadlock Mounting Question....

REDLYNER

Mall Crawling Race Rig
Joined
Oct 31, 2008
Location
Mountain Island
Where does the front of the tire (outside bead) sit on the wheel?

In the videos I watched, I couldn't tell. Do I have the front bead sitting in the correct place, or does it need to slide over the same lip the rear bead did while mounting?

Currently, I have the outside bead sitting in the yellow section, should it be in the red section?

Bead1.jpg




Bead sits flush, but it is a pretty tall gap between it and the ring-

Bead2.jpg


Bead3.jpg


Bead4.jpg
 
On a true beedlock you put the bead in the yellow. Those look like street locks since the black metal is so thin. Street locks just looks cool, but don't do anything. Since that appears to be what you have put the bead in the red.

If those truely are real beadlocks I'd send them back. I wouldn't trust that sheet metal to keep the tire on.
 
On a true beedlock you put the bead in the yellow. Those look like street locks since the black metal is so thin. Street locks just looks cool, but don't do anything. Since that appears to be what you have put the bead in the red.
If those truely are real beadlocks I'd send them back. I wouldn't trust that sheet metal to keep the tire on.

Are you serious? You obviously don't know what the hell your talking about. Just because its not a 1/4" weld on you think its junk. That is what a high end bead lock is supposed to look like because someone actually engineered it so you don't have to have 40 pound lock rings.:shaking:


To the OP yes it goes in the yellow. Disregard any thing this tard says.
 
On a true beedlock you put the bead in the yellow. Those look like street locks since the black metal is so thin. Street locks just looks cool, but don't do anything. Since that appears to be what you have put the bead in the red.
If those truely are real beadlocks I'd send them back. I wouldn't trust that sheet metal to keep the tire on.

Raceline beadlocks seem to have a good reputation in the crawler world and this is the exact beadlock wheel a good chunk of the KOH rigs were using. That being the case I felt like they should be ok for my application.

The same wheels also seemed to be on the majority of the comp buggies in Moab during EJS. You don't think they will hold up?
 
redlyner...you have them mounted correctly. Also, your wheels probably came with 4 "starter" bolts which are little longer like my Trailready's. Use the starters to do just that. When you tighten them a bit you can get your "normal" nuts and bolts started then remove the longer ones to use on the next wheel.

A little advice...always keep them "starter" bolts in glove compartment.

BTW...that's a nice looking set of wheels.
 
Thanks for the help!


The ring ended up flush with the wheel at 15 ft/lbs, I just needed some longer starter bolts. I'm extremely pleased with how it turned out:

TJPhase4HD.jpg


TJPhase4BHD.jpg
 
Dang guys, give GubNi a break! He knows his stuff just maybe not the higher end KOH bling bling kinda gear.

sweet TJ btw
 
Are you serious? You obviously don't know what the hell your talking about. Just because its not a 1/4" weld on you think its junk. That is what a high end bead lock is supposed to look like because someone actually engineered it so you don't have to have 40 pound lock rings.:shaking:


To the OP yes it goes in the yellow. Disregard any thing this tard says.

It may be a fancy raceline but it's still a stamped sheet lockring like an mrw wheel and will still get bent with use. Unlike those 40 lb lock rings. :flipoff2:


Don't forget to retorque them after a drive.
 
It may be a fancy raceline but it's still a stamped sheet lockring like an mrw wheel and will still get bent with use. Unlike those 40 lb lock rings. :flipoff2:


Don't forget to retorque them after a drive.


along the same lines that a 1/8" stamped factory steel wheel center is a strong as a 1/4" flat homemade wheel center. :flipoff2:


they all get beat up but racelines are top of the line
 
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