Will Carter
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2005
- Location
- Burlington
This is the oiling system that I’ve been using in my personal race car for the past 4 years racing in series such as Ultra 4, We-Rock, ECORS, and TORC, amongst others. It’s gone 100 mph across the lake beds of Johnson Valley, bounced up hills in Alabama, flipped end over end down the cliffs at Dayton, TN, and jumped 50 foot doubles at Crandon.
All without any engine damage.
(And before somebody calls me on it… We did have an awesomely explosive engine failure at Crandon but that was due to a broken piston. The main, rod, and cam bearings were still perfect even in the engine that had two new port holes in it!)
We tear down and refresh our engines a few times a season and have never once had an oil related failure while running this system!
PAN
It starts with the F-Body oil pan. We’ve been using this oil pan in both front engine and rear engine configurations with success. It’s tucks up high enough out of the way so that the transmission pan is usually the limiting factor for how far you can drop the drive train in the chassis. We supply genuine GM Performance cast pans. No crappy welding and flimsy sheet metal here. “But I’ve heard that these cast pans crack.” The only reason these things might crack is that someone failed to make a proper skid plate under the engine. That’s poor chassis design…not a pan flaw…
All pans ship for FREE! - F-BODY OIL PANS AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
Don’t forget the pickup! -F-BODY OIL PICKUP AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
BAFFLE
Next up is the all aluminum, trap door baffling plate. This baffle has hinged trap doors that allow oil to come in but won’t let it out except through the pickup. This baffle works so good that when changing oil you have to stick a piece of wire in the drain hole to open one of the doors if you don’t want to wait 20 minutes for your oil to drain out of the baffle. Baffle bolts in using the factory ‘baffle’ bolts.
TRAP DOOR BAFFLE FOR F-BODY OIL PANS AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
These two parts alone are a good start for reliable trail rig or mild race car oiling. If you’re hardcore enough to drive your rig out of a flop, hit obstacles on the redline continuously, or launch your race car off a short course jump at 70 mph…Read on.
ACCUMULATOR
The next piece to the puzzle, and a piece that can easily save thousands of dollars of engine parts, is an oil accumulator. We specifically like the Canton Accusump.
This acts as a reservoir for extra oil pressure in the event that your oil pickup runs dry. They come in 1,2, and 3 quart capacities. We typically run a 2 quart due to size constraints. We can get about 20-30 seconds of oil pressure out of the 2 quart although I usually call it quits if I can’t get out of a situation in about 10 seconds.
CANTON ACCUSUMP AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
Don’t forget the mounting brackets! ACCUSUMP BRACKETS AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
VALVE
You can either run a simple ball valve off your accumulator or you can use an electric remote valve. Some electric valves still only open and close like a ball valve. Meaning ‘On = Open’ and ‘Off = Closed’. The only issue here is that when closed they never allow the accumulator to fill back up to build reserve pressure and is constantly dumping and filling with fluctuations in engine oil pressure.
The valves we offer (and run) allow the accumulator to still fill and build pressure when the solenoid is off. This allows the oil accumulator to build max operational pressure. For example: Your engine idles at 35 psi but runs 70 psi at higher rpms. With a standard On/Off ball valve/solenoid valve you only ever have accumulator pressure equal to your engine running pressure. So if your pickup goes dry at 4000rpms you might have 70 psi to kick in but if your pickup runs dry at idle you might only be starting with 30 psi and subsequently only have about half a quart of reserve oil capacity to save you.
With these solenoid valves you have the ability to store maximum oil pressure that your engine might produce at full capacity. If you hit 6000 rpms and your oil pressure jumps up to 70 psi the accumulator will fill and store that 70 psi and fill to its maximum volume. This valve will allow you to retain the entire capacity of the accumulator for emergency use. When the solenoid is activated by the low pressure switch (or manual switch) it will start dumping at 70 psi and then fall.
You can buy the solenoid valve with a pressure switch or without and put it on a manually activated switch.
ACCUSUMP VALVES AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
Will also need the output fitting! - ACCUSUMP OUTPUT FITTING FROM SOLENOID VALVE
PLUMBING
There are a couple different ways to plumb the accumulator and a couple different thoughts on which is the best. Many plumb in right above the oil filter with a custom made fitting. If you’re running an oil cooler you can plumb it into the return line using a T fitting and use a check valve for priority directional flow to the bearings. The last option (and the option we choose to use) is to plumb it directly into the oil galley right after the pump. This option utilizes a simple (and cheap!) fitting directly to the block so you still have your port above your oil filter to run a cooler or oil pressure sensor. The idea being that when the accumulator purges it will send pressure to the bearings but also send pressure back to the pump to re-prime it as soon as possible and get engine oil back flowing.
We offer one simple fitting to get the hose into the block and it comes with a sealing crush washer.
Here's a pic of my engine and the fitting.
LS OIL GALLEY FITTING AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
With these parts you'll have a rock solid oiling system that should take the toughest abuse.
If you need plumbing parts such as hose ends, fittings and hose just let me know! We carry several different brands of hoses and fittings and can get most any combination to get your system hooked up!
Get all of these parts in one order and I'll ship the whole order for free!
Thanks for looking!
All without any engine damage.
(And before somebody calls me on it… We did have an awesomely explosive engine failure at Crandon but that was due to a broken piston. The main, rod, and cam bearings were still perfect even in the engine that had two new port holes in it!)
We tear down and refresh our engines a few times a season and have never once had an oil related failure while running this system!
PAN
It starts with the F-Body oil pan. We’ve been using this oil pan in both front engine and rear engine configurations with success. It’s tucks up high enough out of the way so that the transmission pan is usually the limiting factor for how far you can drop the drive train in the chassis. We supply genuine GM Performance cast pans. No crappy welding and flimsy sheet metal here. “But I’ve heard that these cast pans crack.” The only reason these things might crack is that someone failed to make a proper skid plate under the engine. That’s poor chassis design…not a pan flaw…
All pans ship for FREE! - F-BODY OIL PANS AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
Don’t forget the pickup! -F-BODY OIL PICKUP AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
BAFFLE
Next up is the all aluminum, trap door baffling plate. This baffle has hinged trap doors that allow oil to come in but won’t let it out except through the pickup. This baffle works so good that when changing oil you have to stick a piece of wire in the drain hole to open one of the doors if you don’t want to wait 20 minutes for your oil to drain out of the baffle. Baffle bolts in using the factory ‘baffle’ bolts.
TRAP DOOR BAFFLE FOR F-BODY OIL PANS AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
These two parts alone are a good start for reliable trail rig or mild race car oiling. If you’re hardcore enough to drive your rig out of a flop, hit obstacles on the redline continuously, or launch your race car off a short course jump at 70 mph…Read on.
ACCUMULATOR
The next piece to the puzzle, and a piece that can easily save thousands of dollars of engine parts, is an oil accumulator. We specifically like the Canton Accusump.
This acts as a reservoir for extra oil pressure in the event that your oil pickup runs dry. They come in 1,2, and 3 quart capacities. We typically run a 2 quart due to size constraints. We can get about 20-30 seconds of oil pressure out of the 2 quart although I usually call it quits if I can’t get out of a situation in about 10 seconds.
CANTON ACCUSUMP AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
Don’t forget the mounting brackets! ACCUSUMP BRACKETS AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
VALVE
You can either run a simple ball valve off your accumulator or you can use an electric remote valve. Some electric valves still only open and close like a ball valve. Meaning ‘On = Open’ and ‘Off = Closed’. The only issue here is that when closed they never allow the accumulator to fill back up to build reserve pressure and is constantly dumping and filling with fluctuations in engine oil pressure.
The valves we offer (and run) allow the accumulator to still fill and build pressure when the solenoid is off. This allows the oil accumulator to build max operational pressure. For example: Your engine idles at 35 psi but runs 70 psi at higher rpms. With a standard On/Off ball valve/solenoid valve you only ever have accumulator pressure equal to your engine running pressure. So if your pickup goes dry at 4000rpms you might have 70 psi to kick in but if your pickup runs dry at idle you might only be starting with 30 psi and subsequently only have about half a quart of reserve oil capacity to save you.
With these solenoid valves you have the ability to store maximum oil pressure that your engine might produce at full capacity. If you hit 6000 rpms and your oil pressure jumps up to 70 psi the accumulator will fill and store that 70 psi and fill to its maximum volume. This valve will allow you to retain the entire capacity of the accumulator for emergency use. When the solenoid is activated by the low pressure switch (or manual switch) it will start dumping at 70 psi and then fall.
You can buy the solenoid valve with a pressure switch or without and put it on a manually activated switch.
ACCUSUMP VALVES AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
Will also need the output fitting! - ACCUSUMP OUTPUT FITTING FROM SOLENOID VALVE
PLUMBING
There are a couple different ways to plumb the accumulator and a couple different thoughts on which is the best. Many plumb in right above the oil filter with a custom made fitting. If you’re running an oil cooler you can plumb it into the return line using a T fitting and use a check valve for priority directional flow to the bearings. The last option (and the option we choose to use) is to plumb it directly into the oil galley right after the pump. This option utilizes a simple (and cheap!) fitting directly to the block so you still have your port above your oil filter to run a cooler or oil pressure sensor. The idea being that when the accumulator purges it will send pressure to the bearings but also send pressure back to the pump to re-prime it as soon as possible and get engine oil back flowing.
We offer one simple fitting to get the hose into the block and it comes with a sealing crush washer.
Here's a pic of my engine and the fitting.
LS OIL GALLEY FITTING AT RIGHTSIDEPERFORMANCE.COM
With these parts you'll have a rock solid oiling system that should take the toughest abuse.
If you need plumbing parts such as hose ends, fittings and hose just let me know! We carry several different brands of hoses and fittings and can get most any combination to get your system hooked up!
Get all of these parts in one order and I'll ship the whole order for free!
Thanks for looking!
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