rear stear on a budget?

james78

james78

Active Member
Joined
Jul 1, 2007
Location
Jacksonville
This is the definition of every off road aplication How and How CHEAP.:confused:
What I have to work with is a 10 bolt front and rear from a mid 80's suberban. I want to combine them to make a rear stear.
Now I have heard every thing from use log spliter for the ram and controls to buy all the stuf new from a dealer. any advise from the senior experience.

Or does someone have this done? That will part with it?
Thanks
James
 
x2. also, why combine them... just to get a centered pinion? waaay over rated.

I suppose you could do the steering itself for about $200 + the lines and fittings.

But a 10-bolt is gonna bring teh suck unless the vehicle weighs around 1500lbs, uses aluminum wheels, and lightweight tires... :D
 
Ok, I am probably the biggest 10 bolt fan you will ever run into(search a bit I probably have 50 posts defending them here), and I wouldnt try this even under a sammi or lighter.

#1 You will probably end up with $500 minimum in parts and fab to get it bolted in and it wont be that strong. When it brakes, very little ?Any? of your fab work will work with the new upgraded axle you surely go with.

I just have never thought that rear steer was worth what it costs.
 
rear stear

I have it going under a cj5 frame streched/beefed with a 304 and t18 w/d20. rear stear I want to try. what would or should I go with axle ram pump.
What is confusing me is the 10 bolt 30 spline can handle big blocks even in 4wd how is it so week in this configuration?
James
 
the problem is that when climbing hills or rocks on an incline ... wich is the most common offroad obsticle... the weight shifts to the rear and compounds load on the rear axle... the 10 bolt that can hold up to big blocks is probably open diff. where as if you are considering rear steer i am sure it is for a hard core rig that is locked.. However as stated from rich.. super light weight and chromo shafts and knowing when to let out of it.. it may hold?? but in my oppinion when considering cost. the money involved would not be worth the effort. but you don't know until you build it.. This coming from a guy running toyota Rear Steer....
 
rear stear

I did a search on google for rear stear rockwells. found a company that builds 44's 60's and rocks so went ahead and called them they have a shop that can do the entire set up w/roters ram control 3 qt tank. amout 4500. after the wife resessitated me from heart failure. there has to be a way that will handle high power and tq. that is not as un-safe as 10 bolt. I want to have fun not die. HELP :confused:
James
 
I dont think you'll die from the rear steer 10.
Quite contrary I think you will be i muh better shape from walking :)

just kidding, if you decide to ttry this keep us posted.
The easiest set up, would be to find a wrecked 2500HD 4wheel steer vehicle in a bone yard....
 
how come if this is such a weak diff,and i'm using this example from my drag racing experience,i've seen cars with over 700hp at the rear tires use this rear and had no problem,i used this rear in my 434 rwhp nova and only broke it at the c-clips,i know drag racing and off roading is different ball games but if it holds up well in racing ,why not off road
 
Drag racing:
400ftlbs, 4:1 gear reduction in tranny, 4:1 gear reduction in rearend, 14" moment arm (28" tire). Thats 6400ftlbs with a 14" lever.

Offroad
300ftlbs, 4:1 gear reduction in tranny, 2.5:1 gear reduction in t-case, 4.5:1 gear reduction in rearend, 18" moment arm (36" tire). Thats 13,500ftlbs with an 18" lever. Not to mention the heavier vehicle and situations with binding and bouncing loads.
 
jeepinmatt said:
Drag racing:
400ftlbs, 4:1 gear reduction in tranny, 4:1 gear reduction in rearend, 14" moment arm (28" tire). Thats 6400ftlbs with a 14" lever.
Offroad
300ftlbs, 4:1 gear reduction in tranny, 2.5:1 gear reduction in t-case, 4.5:1 gear reduction in rearend, 18" moment arm (36" tire). Thats 13,500ftlbs with an 18" lever. Not to mention the heavier vehicle and situations with binding and bouncing loads.
Click to expand...

thats why i was asking ,becuase i knew there had to be a reason why this diff was no good for serious off road use,thanks for the info
 
I think the 10 bolt would be perfect for a mail box post.
hehehehe

You could mount the box on the drum and turn the pinion to rotate the box so you don,t have to get in the road.:lol:
 
1. Your title is an oxymoron
2. unless your using rockwells or have unlimited use of CNC machines, it's not worth it
3. I would only consider rear steer outside of the exceptions stated above in a comp vehicle where backing up causes points.
4. Get a 14 bolt and a 400hp motor and you don't need rear steer, you can move the bitch where ever it needs to go with your right foot.
 
However bad of an idea it seems, I like your idea trying to do rear steer on a budget, whatever the axle is. Do your research and get back to us... I'd like to hear about this.
 
JThomas said:
I think the 10 bolt would be perfect for a mail box post.
hehehehe
You could mount the box on the drum and turn the pinion to rotate the box so you don,t have to get in the road.:lol:
Click to expand...

Yeh, I've got 5:13's in my mailbox. The low gears help for when it is full and heavy after you forgot to check your mail for several days. It is a 9" though. Can't have Chevy junk out in front of my house.

DK
 
On a serious note, even if you had upgraded shafts and joints, wouldn't the ball joints/knuckles on a 10 bolt be a fairly serious weak link on a medium weight or greater rig?
 
A buddy is doing rear steer in his sami with another sami front with the knuckles turned to allow both axles to be passenager side drop. He is going to run CV unlimited's complete ft axle kit in the rear and stick with his ringed birfs and chromy shafts up front. I know it is a sami but it does run 35 xterrains and he drives it like he hates it, specs: pepped up 1.3, stock tranny, 6.5 tcase gears etc.
I don't think rear steer is a problem in a light weight rig, even with a D44 or 10 bolt with good shafts and joints, just keep the weight reasonable and power/tire size reasonable. It is after all a full floater since it is a front end just in the rear so it's what 30-40% stronger than a semi floater rear end.
It's very doable in the right rig.
 
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