Removing/Rebuilding front Drive Shaft

Macdaddy4738

Macdaddy4738

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
On a 98 TJ...

How difficult is this? What special tools will I need to accomplish this? I want to go ahead and look at replacing all the cardan joints down there since I know one is on the way out anyways.
 
Remove 8x11mm (I believe) bolts, 4 from front yoke, 4 from rear yoke. Compress drive shaft, it should pop right out. Got a ujoint/ball joint press? if not got one from habor freight recently for $40. I rebuilt my 99 TJ using it last weekend...pretty easy. Press out caps, pull ujoint, inspect, grease it up, press back in. Took about 2 hrs (not rushing).
 
devlsh1 said:
Remove 8x11mm (I believe) bolts, 4 from front yoke, 4 from rear yoke. Compress drive shaft, it should pop right out. Got a ujoint/ball joint press? if not got one from habor freight recently for $40. I rebuilt my 99 TJ using it last weekend...pretty easy. Press out caps, pull ujoint, inspect, grease it up, press back in. Took about 2 hrs (not rushing).
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How well does that work on the trail??

I use a reciever cup & a drive pin, 2 old sockets work well & a hammer.
 
damn, doesnt sound bad at all. What about rebuilding the CV portion of the axle? Too difficult there? Do I need to get it rebalanced if Im replacing Cardan joints?

Just double checking here, If I were to run the jeep without the front drive shaft, I would suffer no ill effects correct? Just making sure, I dont know if I'll have 2 hours to kill at one time, probably just an off and on thing.
 
dont think you can run that w/o drive shaft installed. the transfer case fluid will run out where it installs to t-case. nah-that's wrong. the front shaft isnt a slip yoke like rear is stock
 
jeepman13 said:
dont think you can run that w/o drive shaft installed. the transfer case fluid will run out where it installs to t-case. nah-that's wrong. the front shaft isnt a slip yoke like rear is stock
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So I cant run it without the front?

I asked just to make sure, because I have heard of guys pulling the front drive shaft in an effort to help MPG...but I dont remember if they needed to do anything special to it after pulling the shaft.

What parts do I need to do a full rebuild on the front axle?
 
When I installed my ford 8.8 with 4:10's I ran without my front DS for about 2 months with no problems.
As for using my $40 press on the trails...it takes no room for storage, and is easy to use...its a 8in C clamp
 
You can run with your front drive shaft out. As far as what parts you need maybe a inspection of your hub assembly's and ball joints would be a starting point. If you jack up one side till the tire is off the ground, then pull the bottom of the tire, and push the top in at the same time you can tell what is bad.Then do the other side. It helps to have someone watching to see what moves. If your cv boots are bad on your axles, I would replace them with the old trusty u joint style. I never liked a cv boot, if you punch a hole in it their goes the lube, then the axel.
 
Im just going to go ahead and replace everything on the driveshaft (maybe not the centering ball, depends on what condition its in..)

Are there replacement U-Joints that are better than stock ones?

EDIT**

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52237_050.htm

what exactly is this? And is it a worthwhile investment?

EDIT***

http://www.4xshaft.com/GoldSeal.html Im thinking about picking these up. Good call? What about where the grease fitting is? Good/bad?
 
The u bolt conversion is a good idea, you don't have to worry about breaking the head off of the bolt that holds the strap on. If you break the u bolt you can just replace it on the trail. Those u joints are good, but my only worry is if you break one how long will it take to get a replacement? I have had good luck with the NAPA Brute Joint, they are made by Precision and have a lifetime warranty. I haven't broken any, but if you do there is always a NAPA around.
 
My plan with those was to go ahead and order 3 or 4, keep two as extras.

I suppose I need to look into redoing the front axle u-joints and the rear axle/driveshaft too...damn :lol:

EDIT**

Its not the driveshaft. Its the passenger side front axle u-joint. Problem is, I dont know if I can do this one on my own.
 
willness33 said:
Good lord, man! It really is simple. Drive your ass down to Stanley and I'll show you how easy it is. LOL
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Ask Braxton about this jeep...

Or David Minton for that matter.

A regular hour long job on any other jeep, turns into a 10 hour swear fest when you start working on this thing. It will fight me till the very end I am sure.
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
Ask Braxton about this jeep...
Or David Minton for that matter.
A regular hour long job on any other jeep, turns into a 10 hour swear fest when you start working on this thing. It will fight me till the very end I am sure.
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Unless the jeep spent it's life in the rustbelt, it's an easy job. It's even easier if you've had your unitbearings out at any time before. I'm serious, if you want to spend the 30 minute drive to Stanley, I'll give you a hand. I live about 10 minutes from "The Farm".
 
It spent its time in Massachusetts for a bit, but most of it was spent at Hilton Head....where it was never cleaned apparently.

I pulled off some stupid chrome things that were on the rockers. Had a rust hole I could easily fit my fist though...keep in mind this is a 98 TJ.
 
if its an axle joint u need to use a spicer 5-760x and nothing less. i have learned my lesson the hard way with the brute force joints, warranty does not matter when u are stuck on a rock at sundown with your ball joints blown apart due to a cheap pos joint!!! and it sounds like u may want to start a few days early soaking the unit bearings with pb blaster also leave the brake dust shields off so that u can wash it out easy and it wont trap mud behind your rotors.
 
novacayne75 said:
if its an axle joint u need to use a spicer 5-760x and nothing less. i have learned my lesson the hard way with the brute force joints, warranty does not matter when u are stuck on a rock at sundown with your ball joints blown apart due to a cheap pos joint
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I agree and I've been in the exact same situation before, except the sundown part. I was lucky that the advance in Harlan had my balljoints in stock. I also agree on the dust shields.
 
My 99 TJ spent the first 75k miles in NY, I had to cut my axle shaft u-joints out due to the rust. Drive shaft u-joints werent
as bad....but not easy...much rather do in a garage now, than on the trail with limited conditions/supplies later!::eek:
 
All I can find is the 297...I dunno if that'll fit though.

EDIT*

Damn, the 297 got phased out back in '01...wonder why this place still has em.
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
All I can find is the 297...I dunno if that'll fit though.

EDIT*

Damn, the 297 got phased out back in '01...wonder why this place still has em.
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They probably don't sell that many. Most people just go to advance or the like and buy cheap ass joints if they need to replace them. That works fine for something that doesn't get wheeled. Tell them you'll buy all of their old outdated stock at half price so they can get updated. OH, and as you probably already know, the 297 will be fine.
 
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