Sandblasting

JWebbie2

Well-Known Member
Joined
Feb 29, 2012
Location
Yadkin County
Where's a good place to get some sandblasting done in the Winston Salem, Yadkin Villegas area? I need to get my knuckles sandblasted, got a little bit if surface rust on them
 
Yeah, Beamers is only a few miles from you. I've got a set of beadlocks there now.
 
go to lowes and buy some navel jelly, soak for a few hours and wash them with water. dry and paint..
 
I could be wrong: some knuckles are cast

If working with cast, know that the purity of iron in cast is very susceptible to acid. attached is a picture of a cast yoke, and you can see what a over night acid dip did to it.

Im not a chemist, and not as experienced as many on nc4x4, but after this experience and discovering how it happened, im now much more leery with acids and alkalis. Maybe someone with more experience can comment, (thats prob good advice from @Jeff B) but i would be fearful of even a surface application weakening the "surface". <that could be totally wrong thinking. just where my mind went.

i would vote sandblasting over a dip, but if it really is only surface rust just clean really good and treat with a rust inhibiting primer, then paint.

EDIT: What i found out with iron is that is very porous, and even a thorough cleaning even after a light acid/alkali treatment, its in the pores and keeps on working until neutralized. Cleaning with with chems requires immediate neutralization (about 1.5 times the length of initial application) and then it must be immediatley baked dry to remove oils and water and then immediatley painted. Otherwise it just rusts again very quick or under the paint.

EDIT2: Im very impressed with the rust inhib primer and por15 with farm/tractor paint. Solid and I expect long life. My knuckles were extremely rusted and under severe pitting.
 

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ckruzer said:
I could be wrong: some knuckles are cast

If working with cast, know that the purity of iron in cast is very susceptible to acid. attached is a picture of a cast yoke, and you can see what a over night acid dip did to it.

Im not a chemist, and not as experienced as many on nc4x4, but after this experience and discovering how it happened, im now much more leery with acids and alkalis. Maybe someone with more experience can comment, (thats prob good advice from @Jeff B) but i would be fearful of even a surface application weakening the "surface". <that could be totally wrong thinking. just where my mind went.

i would vote sandblasting over a dip, but if it really is only surface rust just clean really good and treat with a rust inhibiting primer, then paint.

EDIT: What i found out with iron is that is very porous, and even a thorough cleaning even after a light acid/alkali treatment, its in the pores and keeps on working until neutralized. Cleaning with with chems requires immediate neutralization (about 1.5 times the length of initial application) and then it must be immediatley baked dry to remove oils and water and then immediatley painted. Otherwise it just rusts again very quick or under the paint.

EDIT2: Im very impressed with the rust inhib primer and por15 with farm/tractor paint. Solid and I expect long life. My knuckles were extremely rusted and under severe pitting.
Click to expand...


It's cast steel, not cast iron.
 
strange1 said:
Yeah, Beamers is only a few miles from you. I've got a set of beadlocks there now.
Click to expand...

Performance Gunworks is probably even closer than Beamers. I think he's doing some cerakote now, so that means he must have the ability to blast. Most likely not as powerful as Beamers.
 
mbalbritton said:
In a 5 gallon bucket, Soak them in 50/50 - water/vinegar for a few hours, neutralize with baking soda, dry and paint.
Click to expand...

I might try this. Do you throw the baking soda in the bucket with the water/vinegar after a few hours?

strange1 said:
Performance Gunworks is probably even closer than Beamers. I think he's doing some cerakote now, so that means he must have the ability to blast. Most likely not as powerful as Beamers.
Click to expand...

I tried the Loctite Naval Jelly and it did ok, still a little bit of rust still on there, but I might have to give them a ring.
 
JWebbie2 said:
I might try this. Do you throw the baking soda in the bucket with the water/vinegar after a few hours?
.
Click to expand...
No. Remove from vinegar, rinse and coat with baking soda/ water solution to neutralize vinegar.

I just did this today to show you. I poured the last of some red wine vinegar (use white vinegar, its cheaper with same results) on the inside of a hard top I'm going to restore. Let it sit for 2 hours and wiped away the vinegar with a towel. That's just two hours. Then I sprinkled baking soda on it and poured some water on it to stop the reaction. If you don't. Trace amounts will continue to eat away. That's bare metal you see there.
IMG_1706.JPG
 
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