set up questions

pgaloustian

Active Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2009
Location
Mooresville,NC
so i have an 02 tj with some minor stuff done to it.....heard different things from different people wanted to see what yall think

i have a 4 inch short arm lift with 33s bfg a/ts right now, lookin to bump up to 35 or 36 inch iroks

ive heard that bumpin to a dana 44 is a must with bigger tires and ive also heard building a dana 30 is just as good as any d44, is this true?

also would i need to go with a bigger lift or could i just shave fenders and call it a day?

keep in mind im not trying to build anything TOO crazy, just a fun trail truck and a reliable weekend driver

thanks in advance for all the help
 
The 30/35 combo in your TJ will not last long at all with anything any bigger. Actually, with 33's the D35 rear is just waiting to pop if you do much with it. Building a D30 in my opinion is a waste of time. Yea, i wheeled on a D30 with 36's for a while but never beat on it too hard. 44's from a rubicon are ok, but the front is a 44/30 hybrid so the outers is the weak point.

I guess all this rambling means this: 36's on your axles, I'd say no.
upgrading to 44's, i'd save your money and swap to something bigger.

After all this typing, i don't think i've helped at all. Oh well. good luck!
 
As for the 44, a 8.8 from an exployer with disc is better, easier to find(cheaper) and usually 4.10. I wasted alot of money in a 44 front and it still had ball joints after all was done, so yes, keep and build the 30.
 
one more the for the 30. I'm running 34s on my locked D30 with stock axles and 3.55 gears. I broke a u-joint this weekend and with all of that binding and lurching I didn't break a shaft. Rounded the crap out of the knuckles though! heheh I am contemplating a gear upgrade in the future but for right now my stock gearing is suiting me fine. I am also running a locked 35 in the rear, but I have an 8.25 awaiting a snapped axle. At that point I'm putting in my SYE and upgrading my drive shafts. Going to do a disc conversion on the 8.25 in the meantime as well.

D30 +
D35 -, run it till it breaks and replace it with a 8.8 from explorer.
 
cltdba said:
one more the for the 30. I'm running 34s on my locked D30 with stock axles and 3.55 gears. I broke a u-joint this weekend and with all of that binding and lurching I didn't break a shaft. Rounded the crap out of the knuckles though! heheh I am contemplating a gear upgrade in the future but for right now my stock gearing is suiting me fine. I am also running a locked 35 in the rear, but I have an 8.25 awaiting a snapped axle. At that point I'm putting in my SYE and upgrading my drive shafts. Going to do a disc conversion on the 8.25 in the meantime as well.

D30 +
D35 -, run it till it breaks and replace it with a 8.8 from explorer.
Click to expand...

jeep has a dana 44 in the rear, 3.73 ratio

mainly worried bout the front...for now
 
pgaloustian said:
jeep has a dana 44 in the rear, 3.73 ratio
mainly worried bout the front...for now
Click to expand...

trim and go with it. I plan on running 35's with 3" or less lift. 36 aren't much different.
d44 will be good, d30 ok for a while, hp 30 would be better but I wouldnt replace it till its broke.
if your planning on driving it on the road or want more grunt on the trail, I for-see the only other thing you would want to do is chage ratio's. 4.56 or 4.88.

edit: well the gear ratio thing is if you got a six, but if its a four banger I dunno. you may also want to look into a sye if you havent already for that much lift.
 
The D30 in my TJ lasted through 29's, 32's, 33's, 35's, and 36" Iroks before being replace with a D60 that I found cheap. It had an ARB and 4.56 gears, but stock everything else. The only problems I ever had with is were hubs wearing out. I went through about 5 hubs in 3-4 years. I also had 1 ujoint deteriorate and be replaced. I wasn't gentle on it, but I didn't use it as a hammer either.
 
I beat a 30/35 to death with 33's and a 4 banger. When I did break the front end, I bought a complete one for $150 and spent about an hour changing it out. My wife runs a locked 30 w/disco 35" tires and 4.0 and she has never broken it. I on the otherhand, have broken hers 2 or 3 different times. Guess I'm taking out my anger on her jeep.
 
mudder said:
trim and go with it. I plan on running 35's with 3" or less lift. 36 aren't much different.
d44 will be good, d30 ok for a while, hp 30 would be better but I wouldnt replace it till its broke.
if your planning on driving it on the road or want more grunt on the trail, I for-see the only other thing you would want to do is chage ratio's. 4.56 or 4.88.


edit: well the gear ratio thing is if you got a six, but if its a four banger I dunno. you may also want to look into a sye if you havent already for that much lift.
Click to expand...

yes i have a 4.0 and im looking into a 4.56 once i start doing all the work....do i need sye with 4 inch of lift? thought it was for anything over 5"

jeepinmatt said:
The D30 in my TJ lasted through 29's, 32's, 33's, 35's, and 36" Iroks before being replace with a D60 that I found cheap. It had an ARB and 4.56 gears, but stock everything else. The only problems I ever had with is were hubs wearing out. I went through about 5 hubs in 3-4 years. I also had 1 ujoint deteriorate and be replaced. I wasn't gentle on it, but I didn't use it as a hammer either.
Click to expand...

you think if i put beefier hubs and u joints i could be fine?

GotWood said:
I beat a 30/35 to death with 33's and a 4 banger. When I did break the front end, I bought a complete one for $150 and spent about an hour changing it out. My wife runs a locked 30 w/disco 35" tires and 4.0 and she has never broken it. I on the otherhand, have broken hers 2 or 3 different times. Guess I'm taking out my anger on her jeep.
Click to expand...

whats a 30 w/disco?
im running a 30/44 with 33s and i havnt had many issues yet (crossing fingers, hoping i didnt just jinx myself)
 
You can run up to a 6" without an sye. Disco is for quick disconnect swaybar links. In my opinion there's not enough gain to justify your time and money in putting a 44 unless you get one out of an older Ford , reuse radius arms, and get the 9" out of the rear to match to save some doe. If your going to weld brackets, make control arms, etc., spend the extra $ and get a 60-you'll wish you did.
 
You might could upgrade the hubs with something from a ZJ D30, but I don't know if they are a bolt on or if they are any stronger.
 
w/disco

the front has an axle disconnect. it is a sleeve that slides over the inner/outer axle on the passenger side. weak point in the system, put in by the manufacturer to aid in fuel milage.
 
GotWood said:
w/disco

the front has an axle disconnect. it is a sleeve that slides over the inner/outer axle on the passenger side. weak point in the system, put in by the manufacturer to aid in fuel milage.
Click to expand...

who makes em? where can i read up more on em?
 
GotWood said:
w/disco

the front has an axle disconnect. it is a sleeve that slides over the inner/outer axle on the passenger side. weak point in the system, put in by the manufacturer to aid in fuel milage.
Click to expand...
:lol: my bad.
thats good info.

pgaloustian said:
who makes em? where can i read up more on em?
Click to expand...
here are the high end ones

"but mine cost me about 5 bucks. here's a thread" sorry im an idiot.
 
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