Setting Timing without marks

I usually set up a dial indicator in the #1 spark plug hole... Get the engine to TDC within a few degrees (match up the distributor as well to tell that its on #1 fire). The dial will let you set up TDC, make a mark on the block and on the pulley or balancer that you will be able to see with a light... From there you can get a cheap degree indicator depending on the size of the pulley or balancer and JB it to the block...


This is how I setup my VW engine that was mated to a Toy tranny... Vdubs use a timing mark on the flywheel, so it was time to start all over...
 
IF your Harmonic balancer is way off with the mark you have an issue. The balancer has a Keyway and can only go on one way, so I am thinking you have one that has slipped. It very well could be a grenade looking for a place to explode.

No indicator isn't a big deal. Pull coil wire, and rotate engine till you get number one piston up at the end of the compression stroke. I do this by pulling the plug, and having someone rotate (bump) the engine while I hold my thumb over the hole sealing it. When it blows compression and blows your finger off, you are close. Number one piston up, and rotor button pointing to number one plug wire, you will be close. Fine tune it from there.
 
Ricky,
Problem A probably isnt what you are thinking it is. It is pretty hard (impossible?) to not put a harmonic balancer on straight.

BUT GM has used (at least) 2 distinct timing indicators on SBC. One involves TDC mark being at the "12 o'clock" position. The other involves the TDC mark being at approx "2 o'clock" if you end up with a balancer or timing indicator that are not a matching pair you can think something is in left field.

Make sense?

The timing mark should either be straigt up and down or at about a 45 pointing towards the Driver side vc.
If it is at ether of those all you need is the corresponding timing tab. If you cant find let me know I have surplus of each at the shop.
 
SkyHiK5 said:
Ricky,
Problem A probably isnt what you are thinking it is. It is pretty hard (impossible?) to not put a harmonic balancer on straight.
BUT GM has used (at least) 2 distinct timing indicators on SBC. One involves TDC mark being at the "12 o'clock" position. The other involves the TDC mark being at approx "2 o'clock" if you end up with a balancer or timing indicator that are not a matching pair you can think something is in left field.
Make sense?
The timing mark should either be straigt up and down or at about a 45 pointing towards the Driver side vc.
If it is at ether of those all you need is the corresponding timing tab. If you cant find let me know I have surplus of each at the shop.
Click to expand...

My timing indicator is at 2 oclock (more like 1 oclock but its def not striat up at 12), I'm not sure why the mark on the pulley is so off but when I use a timing light to try and set the timing it is wayyy off at like 4oclock, then when i plug the timing thing back in behind the dash the mark on the pulley gets closer but its still to far off to use to set the timing from the factory indicator, plus i was told to unplug that timing thing behind the dash to set it anyway
 
Punkskalar said:
I usually set up a dial indicator in the #1 spark plug hole... Get the engine to TDC within a few degrees (match up the distributor as well to tell that its on #1 fire). The dial will let you set up TDC, make a mark on the block and on the pulley or balancer that you will be able to see with a light... From there you can get a cheap degree indicator depending on the size of the pulley or balancer and JB it to the block...
This is how I setup my VW engine that was mated to a Toy tranny... Vdubs use a timing mark on the flywheel, so it was time to start all over...
Click to expand...

Thanks ill do that for Andy's F100
 
Ricky
as many engines as you have played with cant you get it close by ear?

if not I no longer wonder about your bad luck...
 
are you on number 1 cylinder? Ford and Chevy have different locations for #1.
Sky is right on the money here about the two balancers.
your timing interrupt plug has a brown wire and on the pass side firewall under the hood. it is a single wire plug.
If you cant see your timing marks behind the water pump or the more traditional spot at 2 o'clock then you have other problems.
 
Here's an ok way to find tdc http://www.wikihow.com/Find-Your-Engine's-Top-Dead-Center-(TDC)

Or you can use a degree wheel and piston stop or a dial indicator. Either way, before going any further on that z71 engine...pull the #1 plug and verify whether your balancer's marks are on or not. If not, figure out why. While you're at it...take a silver sharpie and mark the degree lines so they're easier to see.
There's no need to guess in the dark when it's so simple to know for sure.
 
I'm not trying to be smart but are you sure you're not 180 degrees out?
 
I had the same problem. My balancer is the 12 o'clock position one. I had to cut a groove in it for the 2 o'clock position & added a timing tab from Advance. Problem solved.
 
marvilusone said:
I'm not trying to be smart but are you sure you're not 180 degrees out?
Click to expand...

I hear ya, but i'm pretty sure engines wont run at 180deg out . . . .

I had the same problem. My balancer is the 12 o'clock position one. I had to cut a groove in it for the 2 o'clock position & added a timing tab from Advance. Problem solved.
Click to expand...

well my tab is the 2 o clock one but the pulley is way down at like 4 oclock when you try and time it like no where near the top, then if i plug the timing thing back in it advances closer but still isnt close enough to line up to the timing tab
 
It will run 180 out. It will run like complete crap but it will run.
 
marvilusone said:
It will run 180 out. It will run like complete crap but it will run.
Click to expand...

I hear ya, I've just never had anything that was 180 out run, but in my case the truck is running pretty dang well, its just spark knocking some under acceleration, so i need to adjust it and cause of the weird fuel injection setup and it not getting close its throwin me off, lol.

I'm sure I'll figure it out
 
If it's only Pinging under accell, it's close. If you can't get it by adusting the dist, could you possibly be off by a tooth?
 
rbo1577186 said:
If it's only Pinging under accell, it's close. If you can't get it by adusting the dist, could you possibly be off by a tooth?
Click to expand...

Well, its possbile but I mean i can do the thing where I turn it one way and make it run bad then turn it the other way and make it run bad, it has a sweet spot, I just need to get it accurate

Course i guess ill have to worry bout this later cause tommorow i will be pulling the engine apart since i sold a bunch of stuff off it . . . time to do the vortec swap then i guess :driver:
 
Like you said earlier though, this isn't a carb'd engine--there isn't really a "sweet spot" that you can determine. You set it to a specified degree and the computer decides the sweet spot. If the timing isn't where it thinks it is, another rebuild could follow. especially with as much load as you put on it pretty regularly. Stop trying to modify your shit and just give it a chance for once.:flipoff2:
 
braxton357 said:
Like you said earlier though, this isn't a carb'd engine--there isn't really a "sweet spot" that you can determine. You set it to a specified degree and the computer decides the sweet spot. If the timing isn't where it thinks it is, another rebuild could follow. especially with as much load as you put on it pretty regularly. Stop trying to modify your shit and just give it a chance for once.:flipoff2:
Click to expand...


Well i mean im just doin what I always do, i mean I figure if im gonna take the time to loosen the dizzy hold down bolt i might as well take the whole engine apart and put a bunch of performance parts on it :driver:


Nah, lol, this was in the works anyway, just got around to it.
 
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