shackle flip or something else?

rightwinged

New Member
Joined
May 7, 2010
Location
new bern
Long story short, i picked up a k-5 with one of them out of the box kits from skyjacker. its got 12" springs in the front and 8" springs and 4"blocks in rear. Ive moved the blocks back under the springs 3 times now, but because of the extremely stiff ride, every bump pushes them out and one of these times there gonna shoot out at the speed of light when i hit a pothole. my ? is, im not sure that taking the blocks out and doin a shackle flip is the way to go, i think they would just be inverted because of arch. i was planning on takin the flip off my suburbon and throwing it on there, but i wanted to see what you guys thought. My only goal is to get rid of blocks, and still maintain lift. It is strictly a show truck.
 
and its not a skyjacker kit.

super lift did the 12" lift.

if you want tons of info and pics and help try www.ck5.com if you dont find what you want here.

but just a fyi that 12" lift even with a flip kit will not ride good. to tall and stiff a spring.

whats your plans on the direction of the trucks build and use. ?
 
I tried ck5, couldnt really find what i was lookin for. I know it will be stiff, im not concerned with that, im just tryin to get rid of the blocks because one of these times there goin to slip out....bye bye truck. Its a mall crawler, just for show, driven a few times a week. im just tryin to find the most effective way to eliminate blocks while maintaing lift, not concerned with ride quality.
 
carolinak5.com will probably know. honestly when i researched lifting a full size chevy a shackle flip was the way to go. ORD sells a four inch shackle flip that would fit your needs.
 
with a flip you will also need to address the pinion angle and possible longer shocks or cut the tabs off and rotate up and reweld.

and you must not of searched ( shackle flip ) or ( flip kit ) or ( flip ) on ck5 in the garage section. tons of info there.
 
the blocks shouldnt be slipping out unless something is seriously wrong.
the block should have an alignment hole in the center and in the spring perch and a pin between the 2
 
thats what i thought, but taking a closer look, the blocks are hollow the whole way through, which is confusing because there not homemade blocks.
 
If the blocks are completely hollow without cross webs, then they are some booty fab and not anay kit Ive ever seen
 
we need pics to pin point the problem with the blocks.
 
Id be more inclined to measure from, say front spring eye to center pin....but first things first....

...there IS a pin hangin out of the bottom of the lift block that engages with the hole in the perch, right? .....and are you sure that the center pin in the springs in long enough to reach all the way through the degree shim so it engages properly in the hole in the top of the lift block?
 
yes the center pin is there, and it goes all the way through to the perch, they both look bent though, towards the front. possibly the blocks were put too far back on the springs, not center, so its got tension towards the front, causing the blocks to "lean" towards the rear?
 
another thing i dont like at all with these kits these days is the super cheep ubolts and nylock nuts. no self respecting spring shop will sell you nylock nuts for his quality ubolts.

go get your self some ugraded to 5/8 rod ubolts and deep hex nuts and hardened washers.

get those in and locked down good and tight. then test drive it for a few miles and recheck the tourqe on the nuts for the ubolts.

and that cheep aluminum shim thay include is crap. if you realy want to keep it i sugest you sandwich it between the bottom leaf ( overload ) and the bottom spring. and use new center pins. and watch how you work with the spring pack. its under lots of pressure.

that shim is not as long as the block and wont spread the laod the best in the hollow center style blocks thay give you.

if you want the best tho. get some custom made steel shims and thay will be longer also . unlike the crap thay sell us.

these are just a few things i would try and or go flip kit. but like you are finding its work also with that.
 
got center pin out today of p.side, it is nowhere near straight. ?#1 do i have to buy a new center pin from company online, ie specifically made for being a center pin, or is there another solution, g8 bolt???? ?#2 what would cause the center pin to bend like that too much stress from the block trying to "force" its self out? if the truck was yours, and it is only a show truck keep in mind, would you attempt to fix current block situation or dont mess with it and get shackle flip?
 
grd 5 or grd 8 bolt and round the hex hed to fit tight in the block.

then like i said some real ubolts in 5/8 this will get you grd 8 ubolts.

stock is like 9/16 and grd 5. unless its cheep lift kit ubolts.

and if 1 pin is like this i bet the other is.
 
rightwinged said:
if the truck was yours, and it is only a show truck keep in mind, would you attempt to fix current block situation or dont mess with it and get shackle flip?
Click to expand...

I'd ditch the 12" lift, and install a 6"-8" all spring lift.
 
i would ditch it, but then id probabally have to get the driveshaft shortned and would end up costing me a lot more buying another lift, then just fixing the problem with this one. Another ? On the bottom of the perch, should you be able to see the center pin, like on the underside of the perch?
 
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