SOA-talk to me like I'm stupid

raleighjeepguy

New Member
Joined
May 27, 2007
Location
Raleigh,nc
B/C I really am! So I'm planning on slapping an 8.8 in the rear of my jeep within 2 weeks or so. I need a lil more lift on my jeep right now and soa seems to be the way to go in every way possible. I've read about 2000 write ups but and maybe its just not soaking(since Im retarded) so if I could run some stuff by you guys and see if I've got the just of it..



Front
axle:d30
*basically weld the perches parallel to the existing perches. Caster should stay the same and everything is happy?
*I've heard the stock steering will hit and some say its fine. Troof?
*

Rear
axle: 8.8
*Install sye and cv shaft with pinion of 8.8 pointed directly at the output of the tcase.
*tack perches upon load being put on and everything bolted up.


Anything else I need to consider. I know its not supposed to be this straight on but it seems simple in my mind. Any problems or advice would be appreciated. Btw the packs will be stock yj with an add a leaf. Heard it works well. Troof?
 
You are basically on the right track. If you are going to leave the D30 up front I would get a high steer knuckle to correct the steering geometry. You will also need longer brake lines, extended bump stops, drive shafts lengthened and new shocks. Oh and then will come larger tires and then the need for lower gears and then upgrade the front axles.....
 
We will usually set the front perches about 4-5 degrees more positive than stock. This will give you the best caster angle in my experience. If the caster is set correctly, and you are using a drop pitman arm, we havn't had problems with steering interferance, but a high steer setup would be best to give you the most clearance possible.
Make sure you install the sye before you set the rear pinion angle, don't try to estimate the difference in length from the stock output.
Check all your angles with the full weight on both axles before final welding.
And don't put your track bars back on.
 
You are basically on the right track. If you are going to leave the D30 up front I would get a high steer knuckle to correct the steering geometry. You will also need longer brake lines, extended bump stops, drive shafts lengthened and new shocks. Oh and then will come larger tires and then the need for lower gears and then upgrade the front axles.....
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I have longer brake lines and stops now due to the 4" I already have. The 5100's I have are for an soa b/c at the time I knew I was going there shortly. I already have 35"s on my jeep and they are stuffed at the moment. Basically my neighbor is lifting his pretty, well maintained jeep so I can steal his stock leafs and throw an add a leaf in there. So besides a high steer knuckle, sye, and shaft I'm kind of gold
I've heard of people using a xj front shaft and having it shortened to use with the sye. Will this work with a 8.8 since the diff is alil offset/flange setup or do I have to use a cv. That is a huge cost that is going to hurt the bank more than anything with people wanting around 3-400 for one. Suggestions?

If the caster is set correctly, and you are using a drop pitman arm, we havn't had problems with steering interferance, but a high steer setup would be best to give you the most clearance possible.
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I have a drop pittman arm in place from the current 4" lift. Will this surfice or do I need a diff one? A high steer setup is kind of out of the ? right now with funds although I know it would be nice. So you are saying with the stock caster I shouldn't have a prob?

Also are you guys saying I will to replace the front shaft also? I was under the impression the front would work for a soa on a yj with stock springs. I have the stock shaft now with a 4" kit and no probs.
 
The front shaft may work. The front XJ shaft shortened for the rear is a good low buck swap.
I always go exactly parallel with the front perches when I do a SOA and they have always tracked well.
The 4" drop arm should be enough to clear the springs. You are only going to net about 1.5" more lift with the SOA over your current 4" lift.

For the maximum in flex and travel, I would wait to tack on the shock mounts until everything is in and you can max the suspension out in both directions, split the difference and install your shocks.
 
You are only going to net about 1.5" more lift with the SOA over your current 4" lift.
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All I really want. I think it might end up alil more but not much. My springs ride like a brick atm and have no flex

The front shaft may work. The front XJ shaft shortened for the rear is a good low buck swap.
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But will it work with a u joint conversion and the off centered pinion on the 8.8>?
 
raleighjeepguy said:
But will it work with a u joint conversion and the off centered pinion on the 8.8>?
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As for the off center part, a u joint doesn't really care whether the angle is up/down, or left/right, as long as you stay within the operating limits.
As for the hookup to the axle and t-case, I am not sure. I haven't dealt with the "short" jeeps as much, but I think it has been done. Google may end up being your friend.
 
Did I just boink myself by ordering non offset perches for the front? Ordered them from ruffstuff and about 3 min later realized Im a moron
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fixed. Thats what I meant. Must be paint fumes or something

the offset 8.8 will not hurt any thing. dont f@#%K with spacers. you'll be fine
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yea the rear is pretty straight forward. My main concern is the front. I bought the ruff stuff 30 perches and realized afterwards that the d side stock perch is offset. Looks like I'll be a half inch off. Big deal to just pull the leaf over or do I need to get a diff set?
 
you will be fine

dvandiver said:
the offset 8.8 will not hurt any thing. dont f@#%K with spacers. you'll be fine
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dvandiver is right, most ppl think that there driveshaft must be straight with the xfer case. if you would flip your rig on its side, you would see that your d/s goes at an angle. your u-joints are designed to make the angle. a friend of mine converted his quadratrac jeep to a dana 20 and 3spd and still uses the offset q-trac amc 20. man that shaft is caddywompused.
 
Flip the center pins.
Use a c clamp on either side of the pin to hold the leafs together and flip it around.
 
I did my SOA and put the pinion 1* or so below the output shaft (rear). And dont forget a Antiwrap bar
 
Thanks ugly. Was afraid I wasn't gonna get an answer off any boards. Hopefully its not rusted together like everything else we've taken off. If its completely fubar'd and the option comes up would tapping the perch hole another 1/4" work or do I absolutely have to flip them?
 
if you cant flip the center pin, you can drill the perch out a lil bigger, just make sure you trim down the pin so it doesnt bottem out in the bottem of the hole.
 
rear fitted
272315.jpg

soa done pretty much in rear minus welding brackets
flex=much better
272317.jpg
 
I've been considering doing this myself with a 9" ford and a d/44. I have 4" leaf lift and wondering if the springs are going to be too stiff to make it work. maybe remove a leaf?
sorry, not trying to hijack the thread, but a good time to ask
 
it'd be huge. I was running 4" before but that would put you at about 10" of lift. I threw that out the window instantly. My pics are with stock springs I can't imagine with 4"
 
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