Spark plug wires...wtf?

Macdaddy4738

Macdaddy4738

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2005
Satans jeep has struck again.

Been having problems with it running rough for a little while, and a few weeks ago it threw a check engine code, misfire in cylinder 1.

Finally got around to checking on the spark plugs making sure they are good. For the life of me I cant get a single boot off of this bastard. The number one cylinder boot doesnt move at all!

How in the hell does one go about getting one of these things off? Im no mechanic, but one would assume that something like a spark plug wire should pull off pretty easy.
 
I've ripped and pulled them out of an f 150. Never did get the back plug out of the v10
 
got the number 1 off finally after much cursing and a few beers.

NOW, the spark plug has become one with the engine. That sucker wont budge. May have cracked the porcelain trying to get it out too....whoops. :rolleyes:

Bout through with the whole jeep thing at this point. This thing is a giant POS.
 
soak it with wd40....Then soak it again ...then again...then try to remove it.
 
If porcelain is cracked the spark will likely go out the crack in the porcelain and not to the end of the plug, causing a misfire. Your best bet is to replace the plugs, wires, cap and rotor and then the jeep. J/k on the jeep part...sort of. Methinks this is "That Jeep thing" they're always bragging about, and they're right, I don't understand it.
 
cap is brand new. Rotor should be fine.

Plugs will be replaced if I can ever get them out of the engine block...problem is, this is my only vehicle, so without the tools to get the plug out, Im pretty much screwed. I need a big ass breaker bar or something, which I dont have access to.
 
Try this....trust me it works I know it sounds kinda dumb.

Go to wal mart and buy some CLR and a cheap ass spray bottle.
Going one plug at a time sincce this is a DD.
Get the plug wire off and spray the straight CLR all around the contact area where the plug and head come together. It will actually break up the rust. Let it soak and wor a few minutes then spray liberally with your penetrating lube of choice (BTW I'd choose something better than WD30....sea foam deep creep, kroil, pb blaster etc.) this will flush out the broke up rust... try it woth the ratchet if it doesnt budge repeat...

If you ring the spark plug off in the head you have trouble, that method should prevent that however.
 
3DCrawler said:
Careful, don't break the threads off in the cylinder head. Give me a hollar if you need to.
Click to expand...

Probably will end up calling you about it sometime next week if I manage to get it back down the mountain.

I might go back out and hit it with some PB, always got some of that sitting around.

EDIT*

What about leaving the number one plug wire off, and driving it that way? Safe or bad idea? Ive got no other way to get around till I can get this plug out and can get a ride to the store...
 
Macdaddy4738 said:
cap is brand new. Rotor should be fine.
Plugs will be replaced if I can ever get them out of the engine block...problem is, this is my only vehicle, so without the tools to get the plug out, Im pretty much screwed. I need a big ass breaker bar or something, which I dont have access to.
Click to expand...

what kind of jeep do you have that has the spark plugs in the block???????? j/k all of the above methods should work, just DO NOT wring one off in the head.......then you will have worse probs.
 
I'll help you get them out if you bring it to Maiden.
 
Are the boots vulcanized to the plugs? If so use some plyers and firmly grip the rubber boots and move back and forth till they brake loose from the plug. I would do 1 at a time and replace each wire with a new one this way you don't mix up the firing order.
Did the porcelin on the plug brake while pulling the wire off or while trying to brake the plug loose from the head?
If it did while backing it out then you need to be careful that you don't brake it the rest of the way off. In my experience the porcilin can be broken or missing and that doesn't effect the actual threads or the head on the plug. PB blast it put the correct spark plug socket on the wrench and give it a good pull, if you can not get leverage then put a closed end wrench over the socket wrench for leverage. Other options for breaker bar are metal or plastic pipe, wrench, tap it with hammer, ask neighbor for extra hand (watch knuckles), duct tape long wrench to socket wrench, etc etc. I am looking around the house for something to use for a non conventional breaker bar and I found alot in the kitchen so you should be able to find something. Good luck and let that PB blaster soak for a while.
 
broke while trying to force the plug loose.

Gonna go mess with it here in a bit. Good thing there's an Advance Auto within walking distance of my apartment.
 
got that sumofabitch out. Used a handle from a swiffer floor mop as a breaker bar. Thanks for the kitchen advice Hyperlite!!

Gonna go get 4 new plugs now.

EDIT*

Oh yeah, the number 1 plug was gapped at .055....should be gapped around .035. Explains the misfiring.

So what plugs do I use in the 2.5l TJ? Says that the standard RC12LYC's were recalled because they didnt work right with the engine....and to use another one? Advance Auto gave me a set of the 12LYCs...so I guess thats legit?
 
Got the new plug in, at least for Cylinder one.

It sounds/runs better than Ive heard it in a LONG time.

Yeah, that helped alot. The stuttering problems Ive had are gone, and it runs so much smoother.
 
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