Steering Stabilizer Placement

WillnFox

WillnFox

Un-Known Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2007
Location
Saxapahaw, NC
I've been running my current Inverted T OTK Steering setup for 3 years now

IMG_9018.JPG


I'd like to add a steering stabilizer back to the setup as I do a lot of on road driving with 37s.

Problem is there is not a good way for me to add it along the tierod and it not get smashed up by rocks or clear the track bar, diff, frame, ect...
I can however, add it to the drag link, my question is will it do me any good being there?


I know this is done on Y link but wasn't sure about an inverted T.
Here is two locations I'm looking at doing, both of these are examples on a y-link.

IMG_9013.PNG

IMG_9015.PNG






So here is what I got to work with:
IMG_9019.JPG





Here's What I'm Thinking:

IMG_9017.JPG


Will it do me much good there?
 
Steering stabilizers really don't do much.

But if it were me I would mount one end to the passenger axle tube and the other to the tierod.

* never mind your track bar is in the way.
 
I'd either do what you suggested in your last picture or just not bother at all. You don't have to have one.
 
How much lift are you running? Is the Track bar location stock? Steering Arm stock?
 
Croatan_Kid said:
I'd either do what you suggested in your last picture or just not bother at all. You don't have to have one.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I haven't ran one for the last several years. Really wanting to see if it will increase the longevity of my TREs.
I currently have to replace them annually.


WARRIORWELDING said:
How much lift are you running? Is the Track bar location stock? Steering Arm stock?
Click to expand...

It's a Cherokee running a 78/79 Ford (1/2) ton D44 Axle.

6" of lift ish... 3link, Track Bar Frame side location is factory, Waggy 44 Pitman Arm

I get zero bump-steer and death wobble, this is all about just making my joints last longer and maybe smooth out the ride once I go above 75 down the highway.
But that last part mainly has to do with the tires.
 
In for a third vote that stabilizers don't do anything effective except temporarily mask a problem. If everything in the steering system is set up and functioning properly, a stabilizer is not needed.
 
Desertfox1023 said:
Yeah, I haven't ran one for the last several years. Really wanting to see if it will increase the longevity of my TREs.
I currently have to replace them annually.




It's a Cherokee running a 78/79 Ford (1/2) ton D44 Axle.

6" of lift ish... 3link, Track Bar Frame side location is factory, Waggy 44 Pitman Arm

I get zero bump-steer and death wobble, this is all about just making my joints last longer and maybe smooth out the ride once I go above 75 down the highway.
But that last part mainly has to do with the tires.
Click to expand...
If they are all ready 1 TON TRE's ignore this suggestion.....wait for it the obvious use 1 TON TRE's.

More serious, go to a Chevy 44 knuckle and outers for a bastard flat top high steer.
Easier and more money buy flat top cast replacements and bolt it all on. I run Reid. Then all the angles will be flatter. Adjust track bar to reflect it in parallel. You'll have much higher clearance. Better steering feel. Plus your TRE will last longer.
 
WARRIORWELDING said:
If they are all ready 1 TON TRE's ignore this suggestion.....wait for it the obvious use 1 TON TRE's.

More serious, go to a Chevy 44 knuckle and outers for a bastard flat top high steer.
Easier and more money buy flat top cast replacements and bolt it all on. I run Reid. Then all the angles will be flatter. Adjust track bar to reflect it in parallel. You'll have much higher clearance. Better steering feel. Plus your TRE will last longer.
Click to expand...

I agree that would be the best case senecio.

Sounds like the consensus is im getting the best performance I can with the setup I have and the stabilizer won’t benifit much if anything.

Thanks everyone for the input.
I got a lot more responses on this than I thought

Oh and yes they’re all GM 1-tons
 
Why the hell do you have to replace them every year? How much toe in are you running?
 
I try to run as close to parallel as I can...maybe a 16th toe in. Makes the inside edge of the front tires wear more evenly.

You could just fork over a few more bucks for some better tie rod ends....cheap ass :D
 
Buy moogs and quit dealing with the cheap stuff. Most moog stuff you can find on Amazon considerably cheaper than the parts store.
 
Mood ProblemSolver. Their regular line is Chinese crap now because they sold out a while back.
 
Whatever came in my ruffstuff kit has been holding up great. My drag link is pretty flat though.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Well here is what I came up with:

1577E0C4-2B02-4894-AE10-339574D0F617.jpeg

Inital results are good, flex everything out in both directions and it clears.

On road I do notice less vibration at 65-75mph. I’ve got a whole other spare set of “cheap” joints but sounds like I’d be better served with MOOGs on the next go round
 
Back
Top