Suburban Leveling

Cranking the torsion bars is the "easiest" and "cheapest", but certainly not the best way.
 
uh, there are no (coil/leaf) springs in the front...the torsion bar is the only option. crank them up or install re-indexing cams.

"Crank Up the Torsion Bars? - Don't Do It!

If you're thinking of skipping a suspension kit, opting instead to just crank on the torsion bars to generate lift, there are some things you need to know. Trent McGee at Superlift Suspension points out that by doing so, you may get an inch or two of increased ride height, but the disadvantages far outweigh the advantages. As the ride height is increased, the distance between the bottom of the upper control arms and their extension travel stops becomes smaller, and this results in a rough ride. The reason is that with no extension travel, the suspension cannot fully cycle to soak up bumps and dips. Over time, this topping out causes accelerated upper balljoint wear, front-end alignment problems and CV axle-boot wear, all the result of increased operating angles."

quickest and easiest way is to instal these or some like them...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-98-1500-2500-3500-CHEVY-GMC-SUV-LIFT-LEVELING-KIT-/110672900071
 
bowtieman55 said:
uh, there are no (coil/leaf) springs in the front...the torsion bar is the only option. crank them up or install re-indexing cams.
"Crank Up the Torsion Bars? - Don't Do It!
If you're thinking of skipping a suspension kit, opting instead to just crank on the torsion bars to generate lift, there are some things you need to know. Trent McGee at Superlift Suspension points out that by doing so, you may get an inch or two of increased ride height, but the disadvantages far outweigh the advantages. As the ride height is increased, the distance between the bottom of the upper control arms and their extension travel stops becomes smaller, and this results in a rough ride. The reason is that with no extension travel, the suspension cannot fully cycle to soak up bumps and dips. Over time, this topping out causes accelerated upper balljoint wear, front-end alignment problems and CV axle-boot wear, all the result of increased operating angles."
quickest and easiest way is to instal these or some like them...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/88-98-1500-2500-3500-CHEVY-GMC-SUV-LIFT-LEVELING-KIT-/110672900071
Click to expand...




Thanks
 
Not much trouble at all. Jack up the front, secure it' back the torsion keys off(I always count how many turns to the end of the thread on each side), I think the instructions say to slide the torsion bars forward til you can drop the keys out, may require a bfh, and put the new ones in. After that I'm not sure how it tells you to turn the new keys up or how far. Maybe someone else will chime in on this.
 
lilfoot said:
Not much trouble at all. Jack up the front, secure it' back the torsion keys off(I always count how many turns to the end of the thread on each side), I think the instructions say to slide the torsion bars forward til you can drop the keys out, may require a bfh, and put the new ones in. After that I'm not sure how it tells you to turn the new keys up or how far. Maybe someone else will chime in on this.
Click to expand...



Does anybody know where I can get the tool to do this?
 
I've seen this tool but I'm not sure why you would need it. I was thinking once you back the bolts out the tension would be off and just take the keys out. I'm learnin something here...
 
With the re-indexed torsion bar keys you have to apply to the tension to the key in order to turn it far enough to get the bolt in. This was at least true on the last 2 i did and can remember, my dodge dakota and a friends silverado 1500. Also it made it a little easier to disconnect the sway bar before putting the new keys in.
 
If you've got a friend at a GM dealer, they may let you borrow their tool. Mine did.
 
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