Suzuki Samurai Toyota axle swap

Bearlyphased

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 16, 2006
Location
Concord
I just picked up a Sammi and I have heard how easy it is to put a set of Toyota axles under it. I know I will basically be doing an axle flip so I will need new leaf spring perches for the front and rear and of course new wheels. My question is, just how basic (and cheep) can I do this? Can I use factory Sammi springs? Can I keep my Sammi steering box? Can I keep my factory steering linkage or do I have to buy a high steer kit? I know I’ll need new brake lines and shocks but what about drive shafts? I’m very new to the Samurai world since I’ve never owned anything smaller than a full size. Any info will help….Thanks!
 
Depending on where you put your axles, you can use sami driveshafts, but you might experience a little binding in your rear driveshaft because the toy rear is centered not offset like the sami. A little grinding will fix it. Oh and the guy at LowRange is a super nice guy. I've bought parts from him a few times and it never takes long to get'em. But, he is an avid wheeler and runs his business by himself so take that into consideration.
 
lilfoot said:
Depending on where you put your axles, you can use sami driveshafts, but you might experience a little binding in your rear driveshaft because the toy rear is centered not offset like the sami. A little grinding will fix it. Oh and the guy at LowRange is a super nice guy. I've bought parts from him a few times and it never takes long to get'em. But, he is an avid wheeler and runs his business by himself so take that into consideration.
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Thanks guys for your help. Lilfoot, you say a little grinding will fix the binding, what would I have to grind down? This is a little off subject but, what size tires could I run on the factory axles with out breaking an axle? I just bought a transfercase shifter sheet from lowrange. They do offer alot for samurais. Again, thanks for your help guys.
 
That would be the inside edge of the universal yoke at both ends. I know this doesn't sound good but it wont hurt a thang. A friend of mine done this on his and pushed 34 LTBs to the max with a stock motor, tranny and Atlas 4 to 1 t-case. He also run 35 SXs for a while until he rolled the whole thing.
 
Bearlyphased said:
Thanks guys for your help. Lilfoot, you say a little grinding will fix the binding, what would I have to grind down? This is a little off subject but, what size tires could I run on the factory axles with out breaking an axle? I just bought a transfercase shifter sheet from lowrange. They do offer alot for samurais. Again, thanks for your help guys.
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I ground the yokes a little on my front DS at the TC output end to prevent binding at full suspension drop out on the passenger side. Once you start building it you will see and understand.

If you lock both axles, you can probably run up to a 32" tire, maybe a 33" tire with the stock Samurai axle shafts but it is going to depend on how hard you drive. I'm running 34" LTB's with the TT chromo shafts in the front. I broke one stock rear axle, and one of the TT chromo shafts running the 34's. I've had to back off the throttle a little to keep from breaking shafts.
 
So after grinding the yokes, Is it still going to be streetable or is it going to rattle my teeth out at 45mph? Do I have to get a highsteer set up to clear the leaf springs?
 
I'm too sure about the rattle, I've not road in a sammi that didnt. They're so light. One thing to consider is if it does vibrate you can heve them rebalanced. As far as high steer, I would do that for the control factor, It's much better.
 
So I've got a guy that wants to sell me his toyota axles. I understand that the suzuki axles come with 3.73 gears. I believe the toyota axles have 4.10 gears. If I run 33 inch tires, will that be enough gearing to get me back to a stock feel, as far as top speed and acceleration? Or am I going to have to re-gear the toyota axles?
 
Hopin someone else will chime in on this but I'm pretty sure that when you factor in the weight of the tires and wheels plus bigger axles, 4.10s wont cut it. most guys run 5.13s or 5.29s. I've got a friend with the same set-up and still wasn't satisfied until he swapped in a 1.8 16 valve sidekick motor.
 
Thanks again lilfoot. I understand you can also re-gear the transfercase. I assume this combined with the toyota 4.10s would provide a cheaper way to get the power back up to snufff, and probably would be cheaper then doing gears in both axles. Has anyone tried this method? I do plan on keeping the 1.3l for a while.
 
Called the guy at low range off road. He said 4.10 will be close with 31's. He said I can re gear the transfercase and it will produce the results I want. He said I will have to get the Sky high steer kit. I feel I can fab the leaf spring mounts for the front my self. They said I will need adapters for the front hog's head to run a sammi front drive shaft. They said I will need an adapter for the transfercase to run a toyota drive shaft in the rear. They said a front drive shaft out of a toyota can be used as a rear drive shaft in the sammi with an adapter at the TC because the toyota utilizes a CV joint. I understand the need for adapters, but if i do the grinding yall were talking about, can I use all Sammi driveshafts? I plan on useing suzuki springs and mounting the axles directly in their factory location. They also said I will need to use toyota extended brake lines.
 
You dont have to have an adapter, just redrill the flanges to the sammi pattern. Dont waste your time on regearing the axles, get the 6.5 T/C gears and it will work better off road and on. We have ran everything from 31's to 36's on stock yota axles with 6.5 gears and the 1.3 engine. When you get to that point do the YJ spring swap, it's the best bang for the buck for a street/ trail rig. Get the kit from Lowrange or Mryon at zuksoffroad.com
 
So I got my axles and almost everything I need, I think... Still a little confused about what drive shafts I can and can't use. I guess I'll just cross that bridge when I get there. Thanks again for all the help. keep an eye out for this project on the builds page
 
All of your answers can be found at http://bbs.zuwharrie.com

Search around there, read, read, and when you think you've read it all, read it again.

T-case gears are cheap, but you're introducing a LOT of stress on the case, mounts, and mounting arms. With 6.5's or even 4:1's, you WILL bend/break at least one or all of those items without the proper mods. Start as far outward (i.e. axles) with some reduction, then move to the t-case. It's more costly, but in the end, the drivetrain is happier.
 
Thanks for the info MaulCruiser. I just joined Zuwharrie the other day. It seems that they have everything you would ever need to know about Samurai's. As for now I plan on keeping the suzuki as the daily driver and don't plan on doing any hardcore wheelin' in it. If I do decide to go any bigger then a 31's, I'll look into TC gearing and braceing. By the way, keep a look-out for this thing on the North end this summer, I already got my 60 DOLLAR PASS!!
 
Just an update...
I have now completed the Toyota axle swap on my Samurai. I am running 31 inch MT's. The 4.10's in the yota axles almost bring the power back to stock, however I do find myself in 4th gear more often. I used stock Samurai springs and the SKY high steer kit. I drove around for a week or so with no shocks bouncing all over the road until the ford shock towers I ordered came in. They are a cheep alternative to hoops and they work great if you plate the frame. I am running pro comp es3000's and it rides better then stock now. As for the drive shafts, I am running the factory Samurai in the front. I just drilled the Toyota flange to fit and it seems to be working fine. I ran a factory Samurai shaft in the rear but thought it was shaking just a little too much. So I switched to a Toyota front drive shaft in the rear with help from an adapter on the TC. I had to eliminate the factory cross braking that comes with the samurai. A simple line switch is all it took. I run extended Toyota lines all the way around. The u-bolts are tricky if you're not familiar with Toyota front axles, one side runs square and the other round. I really enjoy this Samurai and it is by no means done. I guess my next upgrade will be some fresh paint. Thanks to Low Range Off-Road for the great customer service and to all the people of NC4x4 for helping answer my silly questions.

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Hi, I know this thread is pretty old, Bearlyphased do you still wheel this Sammy? I have a few questions as I am considering taking the same conversion to my Sammy.
1. How did the toyota rear d-shaft hold out. Was any length adjustment(cutting) required?
2. What was the largest tire you ran with d toyota axles?
3. Again with the rear ds, did you experience any vibration or problems as the rear axle is center and the ds needed to be placed slant.
 
you run a double carden Toyota front shaft and have it cut down a few inches there is very little if any vibration it will last forever and much stronger then a sami shaft you can run 36 stock and it holds up pretty good
 
Depends on how you drive and what moor you have but ya any thing more then 33s and a heavy foot and lockers and you Wil break stuff but plenty of guys running 35 on y otas and a sami has less power and is lighter so if you have a open from I would say your fine if your locked and your going to hit hard trails then build the axle

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk
 
im not gon be easy on an axle swapped vehicle, i could leave stock junk under it and be easy lol!!
i broke four stock birfs before i put real axles in it, i don't give it any slack either tho...
 
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